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Had a few hours free this morning so went out to the maker space and mounted another piece of green cherry on a faceplate (still waiting for my replacement live centre) slowly and cautiously rounded the branch off then once it was balanced I put the belt onto the middle wheels approx 1200rpm and started taking gentle passes at the end grain then on the back until I had the flower head done and then set to the task of removing material, the stem is about 4mm thick, I'm not brave enough to go any thinner, once I got over half way I had to hold the stem at the end to keep it from wobbling and snapping while I one handed the rest, not the easiest of tasks but I had removed the majority of material down to about 3/4 inch so only had 1/2inch to remove, there are tool marks on the flower portion and I only lightly sanded it and the base with 80 and 180grit, the stem I sanded to 320, the "issue" I have with turning green cherry is that I have purple hands at the end of it.
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Finished with teak oil, will be going out and putting several coats on to help keep it from splitting like the last one did
 
Had a few hours free this morning so went out to the maker space and mounted another piece of green cherry on a faceplate (still waiting for my replacement live centre) slowly and cautiously rounded the branch off then once it was balanced I put the belt onto the middle wheels approx 1200rpm and started taking gentle passes at the end grain then on the back until I had the flower head done and then set to the task of removing material, the stem is about 4mm thick, I'm not brave enough to go any thinner, once I got over half way I had to hold the stem at the end to keep it from wobbling and snapping while I one handed the rest, not the easiest of tasks but I had removed the majority of material down to about 3/4 inch so only had 1/2inch to remove, there are tool marks on the flower portion and I only lightly sanded it and the base with 80 and 180grit, the stem I sanded to 320, the "issue" I have with turning green cherry is that I have purple hands at the end of it.
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Finished with teak oil, will be going out and putting several coats on to help keep it from splitting like the last one did


You have nailed this mate it looks great (y) (y) (y)
 
That subtle offset to the bottom of the stem really does make it look as though the top bowel is draining into the bottom plate, very clever.
 
That subtle offset to the bottom of the stem really does make it look as though the top bowel is draining into the bottom plate, very clever.
I wish I could take artistic credit but its an accidental bonus 🙂 the cross section is shaped a little like a comma so I centred my face plate in the circular section and left the "swipe" outside of centre so that the top is slightly offset
 
I no longer have a shop large enough to do big stuff so I took up the hobby of scroll sawing. I made a votive candle holder for my wife and she liked it so much she asked be to make four more for gifts to friends and family. I'll post a picture of a finished one and a pic of all the pieces it takes to make four of them. I've got about 40 hours of cutting so far and just have to sand, assemble and finish them. I hope this qualifies for this forum.
 

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I hope this qualifies for this forum.
I should think it does!!
How do you manage to get all the cuts so accurate. I'm impressed by the rings, let alone decorative pieces.
Did you do the piercing first and then the front and back cuts for the bulge or the other way around?
Do you cut more than one at a time and then slice them apart to achieve the bulge?
There are often things on here that I wonder how on earth they have the patients to make them. This has to take the prize. Well done.
Martin
 
I wish I could take artistic credit but its an accidental bonus 🙂 the cross section is shaped a little like a comma so I centred my face plate in the circular section and left the "swipe" outside of centre so that the top is slightly offset
Far too Honest. 😇
 
Partway through my new hopper build for Nutley Windmill. Thanks to @Sgian Dubh for his invaluable help with the compound angles and those others who added their advice in my Compound Mitre Angles thread. The corners are glued (Semforite) and a fillet piece glued in as well for strength.
A bit of metalwork included on it as there are black painted steel braces around the corners toward the tops and bottoms.
Now have to build the wobbling chute that goes underneath before mounting it on the mill.
 

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I should think it does!!
How do you manage to get all the cuts so accurate. I'm impressed by the rings, let alone decorative pieces.
Did you do the piercing first and then the front and back cuts for the bulge or the other way around?
Do you cut more than one at a time and then slice them apart to achieve the bulge?
There are often things on here that I wonder how on earth they have the patients to make them. This has to take the prize. Well done.
Martin
Thank you for your kind reply. To answer your questions, each piece is cut separately. The curved pieces are done by what is called compound cutting. A pattern in secured on two sides of a block of wood and cut from two directions and the piece comes out of the middel once done. Each one took about an hour. I've tried to speed up the process but it can't be done any faster than what I have done here. I cut 2 pieces and then stop because my eyes just about fall out of me head. It's a very time consuming process but that's what it is all about. A hobby. No race to finish. When these are completely finished I'll have about 20 hours in each one. I've wondered what a fair price would be to ask for them but haven't been able to come up with an answer.
 
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