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We have a bridge over a stream that we replaced 8 or so years ago. I kept the old Douglas Fir boards under a shed just in case! The five bar gate at the end of the drive gave up the ghost last year presenting me with the perfect opportunity to use the boards. The boards were not large enough for the top rail or styles so I bought more DF from a local sawmill. The boards were full of splits and knots but I managed to machine enough material for the rails and cross members. All coach bolts were stainless steel and the hinge set was galvanised so had to be powder-coated to prevent the tannin/acetic acid issue with DF. Now just need a stonemason to rebuild the collapsed wall where it will hang!!
 

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Set of 6 of the "seaton-ish" chisels finished. Could've waited until all were done, but shop time has been more scarce than usual, so it's taken a while to get them done.

handles are a mish mash of styles - I think I like typical octagonal best. any gaps showing between handle and bolster will close with actual use pretty quickly, just haven't had a chance to use them. .07" thick at the bevel now, just under 0.25" up at the tang - definitely a different feel weight-wise, but not undesirable, and they can be struck with any reasonable amount of force (the tang taper keeps them from being too flexible without having to make the ends fat).

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Garage/Workshop was getting severely cramped with all the non Woodwork junk so I built myself a shed

4.5m(5m with overhangs) x 3m. 2.5m tall.

Siberien Larch Board on Board cladding on the show faces and Steel Box Profile cladding on the unseen bits.

GRP roof as I had a load left over from building my house extension.

Hated putting on the Osmo oil on all 4 sides of every single piece of cladding but needed to be done.

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Excuse the State of the Garden. It's going to get a makeover at some point but I've got 2.5 bathrooms and a kitchen to save up for and fit before that happens!

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Garage/Workshop was getting severely cramped with all the non Woodwork junk so I built myself a shed

4.5m(5m with overhangs) x 3m. 2.5m tall.

Siberien Larch Board on Board cladding on the show faces and Steel Box Profile cladding on the unseen bits.

GRP roof as I had a load left over from building my house extension.

Hated putting on the Osmo oil on all 4 sides of every single piece of cladding but needed to be done.

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Excuse the State of the Garden. It's going to get a makeover at some point but I've got 2.5 bathrooms and a kitchen to save up for and fit before that happens!

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What garden?? HA Ha!
 
If there are any new wwks looking at this its important to consider the type of legs you use for oval and non square tops.
In this case A typical square leg frame construction just doesn't fit aesthetically but making curved legs and angled out gives the table better perspective and flowing lines.
Ok it takes longer, you have to work out the design and make templates and figure out how to attach the legs to the top, but its worth that extra thought.
Good luck with your efforts.
 
Not made of wood, but for working with wood.
I was lucky to get some scrap metal recently. A telecoms equipment rack, a rooftop antenna mast, and some heatsink blocks, all aluminium, so I made an adjustable support roller. I just used the bottom of the equipment rack as it was, complete with wheels and brakes. I cut the top off the mast, was tube, 60mm dia 5mm wall. I turned a couple of the heatsink blocks to make bearing supports. The jacking mechanism is taken from a caravan I broke up years ago, but kept the jacks in case they might come in handy some day. It adjusts anywhere from 87cm to 107 cm by cranking the jack. That coveres every tool I have where I might use the stand. I might cut the tops off the side pillars, but will use it first to see how often they get in the way. I don't often cut sheet material.
I was going to have a tilting mechanism on the roller stand, but it's not a huge problem because it's straight to start with.
If I had a £1 for every time the roller swung round and hit me on the head when I was designing/assembling it. I would be a rich guy!!.......... with a bumpy head


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the mast and rack

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bearing supports for the roller.

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I was asked by a friend's wife if I could make her a Kumiko angle block sure I can I said, I had seen one on here so went ahead with it

While I was set up I made a spare set for me to hold and show off, made the 2 sets of four to cover 90 x 15, 75 x 22.5, 60 x 30, 67.5 x 45 all made out of a very hard Mahogany it seems it does not need any finish on it,

She came back with a great report on using the blocks and asked If I can now make her a few chisels for a little lady!! another request was it possible to make a circular block well now I will have to get my thinking cap on for that one, hope to get some images of her finished work one day.

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Skull Acrylic
Upgrade Gold & Gunmetal + Acrylic
Time spent 8 hours 25 Minute over 2 days
Finish :- Wet & Dry Sanding, 0000 Wire wool sanding, Wet Pad sanding, G10

This photobox you have would work quite nice if you used some lights on the outside of it. The way you have it set up now is a big MEH. You can never have too much of a light, but having too little is just bad. I'm not saying this to pick up on you, but you clearly want better pictures by buying the box. So I would expect you do go the extra mile to actually make use of it. All the best.
 
This photobox you have would work quite nice if you used some lights on the outside of it. The way you have it set up now is a big MEH. You can never have too much of a light, but having too little is just bad. I'm not saying this to pick up on you, but you clearly want better pictures by buying the box. So I would expect you do go the extra mile to actually make use of it. All the best.

You mean have lights shining into it as well? I have the lights switched on in the inside so I am thinking maybe it is the Camera.
You are right the pictures really do not come out very well at all.
 

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