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Made from Western Red Cedar. Mortise and tenon construction. T&G boards. Bottom rail with bare faced tenons.

Sliding "Round the corner" door track Tangent 301 made by Henderson.
https://www.pchenderson.com/product/tangent-round-corner-door-hardware/

Rolls around the corner and stores along the left hand wall.

Provides a nice personnel door to the left so you don't need to open the whole door to gain access.

Concrete lintel cast in-situ faced with brick slips.

Can't think of anything more to say but please ask if there's anything you would like to know.
 

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Chris152":3v55zp9b said:
Lump of firewood, reworked.

It's getting cold here now, so I've been splitting logs. Spent the evening trying to work out how to do the knots - comes with a free guide on the lark's head noose knot so it can be remade when it shrinks and falls apart.

Careful where you leave that mate, or you'll come back and find some eejits wired a light bulb holder to it and stuck a lampshade made of "vintage" newspaper pages on it.
 
Nice! Do you fit the mirrors in a groove like a regular panel or are they installed via a rebate with a retainer of some sort bob?
 
Big surface rebate for the mirror, 13mm deep in a 25mm MR MDF panel.
Mirror is glued in then the 9mm fretwork glued to mirror.

The real issue is rebating out one side of a 25mm panel causes massive bowing in 2 directions.
So the mirrors have to be glued in flat and act as a lamination to keep the boards flat. Hence in the image you can see 6 doors all clamped down whilst the mirror adhesive goes off (12hrs)
 
Brilliant. Do you glue in some beading on the inside of the door as well? I note that with this method you can’t repair the door if the mirror breaks.
 
Here is a Mandora I finished last week. I started work on it about thrity years ago but then house renovation and starting anew business and life in general got in the way.

The mandfora is a medieval musical instrument. This one is hollowed out of a single block of 3" maple. The scroll at the head is not quite in keeping with a medieval instrument, it's more baroque, but having previously made a violin I decided to stick with what I knew. I didn't turn the pegs.

I am not musical myself so I have no idea if it plays well or not.

Chris

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doctor Bob":1ieqr9j7 said:
Big surface rebate for the mirror, 13mm deep in a 25mm MR MDF panel.
Mirror is glued in then the 9mm fretwork glued to mirror.

The real issue is rebating out one side of a 25mm panel causes massive bowing in 2 directions.
So the mirrors have to be glued in flat and act as a lamination to keep the boards flat. Hence in the image you can see 6 doors all clamped down whilst the mirror adhesive goes off (12hrs)

I had the pleasure of visiting Doctor Bob's workshop last week, and I saw these mirror doors still weighted down. I hadn't realised that MRMDF distorts when large cut-outs are made, nor had I realised that a piece of 4mm glass is enough to hold it back flat.
 
Mr T said:
Here is a Mandora I finished last week. I started work on it about thrity years ago but then house renovation and starting anew business and life in general got in the way.

The mandfora is a medieval musical instrument. This one is hollowed out of a single block of 3" maple. The scroll at the head is not quite in keeping with a medieval instrument, it's more baroque, but having previously made a violin I decided to stick with what I knew. I didn't turn the pegs.

I am not musical myself so I have no idea if it plays well or not.

Chris
Looks lovely! But you must find a player and let it speak!

Keith
 
finished making a shooting board today.
 

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Mr T":1y0i8vj3 said:
Here is a Mandora I finished last week. I started work on it about thrity years ago but then house renovation and starting anew business and life in general got in the way.
Gorgeous instrument. I am intrigued at the idea it was 30 years in the making. Did your 30 years younger self have different skills, or lack of skills - was it evident you had changed in the interim? There is a story here, if you want to tell it. You don't have to, though. Ignore me if I am being intrusive.
 
thetyreman":2pxxtb0n said:
finished making a shooting board today.

Nice, and a good reminder to some of us to get round to making one, or a better one.
Something I am never really sure about is which orientation to go for - forward onto the bench, like yours, or parallel to the bench. I expect with ordinary sizes of work it makes little difference.

I understand the reason for the pair of mitre positions - with something like a moulded picture frame you can't just flip the piece over. But to use your nearer mitre position, you'd need to reach over the workpiece and pull the plane towards you. Or have you made the underneath block swappable so it can be screwed on at 90 degrees to its present position, letting you plane left to right as well as right to left?
 
AndyT":12am2423 said:
thetyreman":12am2423 said:
finished making a shooting board today.

Nice, and a good reminder to some of us to get round to making one, or a better one.
Something I am never really sure about is which orientation to go for - forward onto the bench, like yours, or parallel to the bench. I expect with ordinary sizes of work it makes little difference.

I understand the reason for the pair of mitre positions - with something like a moulded picture frame you can't just flip the piece over. But to use your nearer mitre position, you'd need to reach over the workpiece and pull the plane towards you. Or have you made the underneath block swappable so it can be screwed on at 90 degrees to its present position, letting you plane left to right as well as right to left?

I will put another block under it I think the first time I need to shoot a mitred moulded profile, which in my case is not very often/hardly ever.
 
I just put this together, having made the 'plinth' months ago following advice in the AOB section.
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It's oak and some cheap white wood - the oak was finished with yacht varnish and the whitewood was burned and oiled, then attached with a couple of screws so it can be replaced when someone breaks it. It was made from scraps I was given, the only bit I had to buy was the small block of oak which cost £4 at Yandles. It's about 3' x 3' x 7'.
 

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You'll be alright if two really tall people and one REALLY short person comes round for a BBQ now Chris.
 
Bm101":1pnjx0lj said:
You'll be alright if two really tall people and one REALLY short person comes round for a BBQ now Chris.
... so long as we don't start running out of wood to burn.
 
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