Popular Paint brands/finish's for spraying MRMDF

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

ChrisWiduWood

Established Member
Joined
24 Apr 2022
Messages
27
Reaction score
37
Location
Bucks/Oxon
Hi All,

Iv'e recently bought a Graco HVLP turbine sprayer for Spray finishing my mdf unit's as my contractor who usually does my spraying got so busy his turn around was 6-8 weeks and i needed a job doing faster!! So i thought... it cant be that hard! :LOL::ROFLMAO:o_O

So my question is what is your go to paint for spraying and finishing mdf?

I have started with Zinnsser BIN shellac based but thats to much of a faff to clean up with the Meths, I've been recommended Zinnsser Allcoat water based but havent yet tried it.

Does anyone have any wonder paint for the job?

Id like to mention I've ordered a Virtuex Hand held edgebander for applying a paper edge to the mdf to get over the constant sanding before and between coats.

Many Thanks
Chris
 

RobinBHM

Established Member
Joined
17 Sep 2011
Messages
7,207
Reaction score
1,394
Location
Wst Sussex
For spray application you really need to buy from a specialist.

Try Morrells

or Movac



basically you have these choices:

1) waterborne, they are solvent free, easy clean up, but they are tricky to spray, dry slowly and raise grain.
clear lacquer is great as it stays white and doesn’t yellow pale timbers

2) pre cats: a good product to start out, solvent based, quite easy to spray, dries quickly.

3) acid catalysed: a 2 pack, dries very hard, resistant to scratching. Contains some nasties, wear the proper mask

4) PU: the best paint for spraying really, very thin coats can be sprayed, dries very quickly, finish is very tough.

however it contains isocynates, so you need an air fed mask and proper extraction system


generally waterbourne, pre cat and AC are sprayed with a 1.6 to 1.8 tip on an HVLP gun

PU is sprayed with a 1.4 tip


You can buy morrells from eBay - a 5 litre pre cat clear is about £40 or so quid

AC is likely to be £75 for 5 litres incl catalyst.
 
Joined
2 Aug 2021
Messages
27
Reaction score
22
Location
Workshop
I use this on all my MDF jobs
Rustins Quick Drying Clear MDF Primer Sealer 2.5L

If its for a jig or a sacrificial fence then a light rub with 400G and 2 coats of this with a 400G light Deneb in between

If is for a painted job then usually 1 coat

Depending on the job I have used brush, roller and spray gun not a great deal to choose between the 3

I have also used Dulex Trade Quick Dry MDF Primer which is white and can be easier to cover than the clear

The worst I tried was Bullseye 123 there are some great reviews for it online and its says if will prime pretty much anything but I ended up taking about 4litres of a 5 litre can to the local tip

Noe saying mine is the best or only way but it works for me
 

Ollie78

Established Member
Joined
4 Aug 2011
Messages
1,394
Reaction score
637
Location
Wiltshire
I use Morrels as well, it is designed specifically for spraying or industrial flow coating.
The best finish is acid cat lacquer but it's super nasty, pre cat or PU is great as well but still pretty solventy so now I use the water bourne stuff which is good but not as fast to flash off and recoat.

I don't like Teknos much but Tikurilla is not bad. Not tried Sayerlack but I have heard its nice.

Ollie
 

ChrisWiduWood

Established Member
Joined
24 Apr 2022
Messages
27
Reaction score
37
Location
Bucks/Oxon
For spray application you really need to buy from a specialist.

Try Morrells

or Movac



basically you have these choices:

1) waterborne, they are solvent free, easy clean up, but they are tricky to spray, dry slowly and raise grain.
clear lacquer is great as it stays white and doesn’t yellow pale timbers

2) pre cats: a good product to start out, solvent based, quite easy to spray, dries quickly.

3) acid catalysed: a 2 pack, dries very hard, resistant to scratching. Contains some nasties, wear the proper mask

4) PU: the best paint for spraying really, very thin coats can be sprayed, dries very quickly, finish is very tough.

however it contains isocynates, so you need an air fed mask and proper extraction system


generally waterbourne, pre cat and AC are sprayed with a 1.6 to 1.8 tip on an HVLP gun

PU is sprayed with a 1.4 tip


You can buy morrells from eBay - a 5 litre pre cat clear is about £40 or so quid

AC is likely to be £75 for 5 litres incl catalyst.

Thanks Robin,

Thats exactly what i needed, My contract sprayer used 2k paints and i love the finish on them, but i think il have a look into pre cat first, and see how i go. I've been spraying all weekend on some home projects with just a diamond eggshell and satinwood both Dulux water based im happy with the results (both had to be thinned though) but the drying time was longer than expected, so i like the sound of pre cat or any fast drying finish.

im off to the land of youtube to do my homework. Thanks again

Chris
 

ChrisWiduWood

Established Member
Joined
24 Apr 2022
Messages
27
Reaction score
37
Location
Bucks/Oxon
I use this on all my MDF jobs
Rustins Quick Drying Clear MDF Primer Sealer 2.5L

If its for a jig or a sacrificial fence then a light rub with 400G and 2 coats of this with a 400G light Deneb in between

If is for a painted job then usually 1 coat

Depending on the job I have used brush, roller and spray gun not a great deal to choose between the 3

I have also used Dulex Trade Quick Dry MDF Primer which is white and can be easier to cover than the clear

The worst I tried was Bullseye 123 there are some great reviews for it online and its says if will prime pretty much anything but I ended up taking about 4litres of a 5 litre can to the local tip

Noe saying mine is the best or only way but it works for me
I actually have some of this, and id never thought of putting on jigs, but i can clearly see why you would. great idea thanks (y)
 

ChrisWiduWood

Established Member
Joined
24 Apr 2022
Messages
27
Reaction score
37
Location
Bucks/Oxon
I use Morrels as well, it is designed specifically for spraying or industrial flow coating.
The best finish is acid cat lacquer but it's super nasty, pre cat or PU is great as well but still pretty solventy so now I use the water bourne stuff which is good but not as fast to flash off and recoat.

I don't like Teknos much but Tikurilla is not bad. Not tried Sayerlack but I have heard its nice.

Ollie
Ah yes Sayerlack was the brand my contractor used, (i know he didn't like Morrells too much)

Will look into this
Many Thanks
Chris
 

RobinBHM

Established Member
Joined
17 Sep 2011
Messages
7,207
Reaction score
1,394
Location
Wst Sussex
Ah yes Sayerlack was the brand my contractor used, (i know he didn't like Morrells too much)

Will look into this
Many Thanks
Chris
Movac stock sayerlack, it’s a great product.

I personally found waterborne lacquers tricky - when doing the top coat they seem to suffer pinholing and if you go heavy enough to avoid the pin holing, you get runs.

maybe it was just my set up.
 

scholar

Established Member
Joined
14 Jan 2009
Messages
479
Reaction score
85
Location
Stratford-upon-Avon
I have used Morrells water based that I find very good. They are not easy to deal with though, and turn their noses up at small customers (and their pricing/discounts are opaque)

I was interested in this video I think he mostly uses Sayerlack so I mean to try this shortly. I think he uses AAA, so maybe you would need to tweak things for HVLP.

Cheers
 

ChrisWiduWood

Established Member
Joined
24 Apr 2022
Messages
27
Reaction score
37
Location
Bucks/Oxon
I have used Morrells water based that I find very good. They are not easy to deal with though, and turn their noses up at small customers (and their pricing/discounts are opaque)

I was interested in this video I think he mostly uses Sayerlack so I mean to try this shortly. I think he uses AAA, so maybe you would need to tweak things for HVLP.

Cheers

Thanks Scholar,
That was in-fact a perfect video! it would seem i am on a similar path that he took and im now very keen to try out WB Sayerlack, excellent advice thanks again
Cheers
 

Latest posts

Top