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POOLEWOOD 28-40

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DAVE Y

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I have a Poolewood 28-40 lathe, about 20 years old which runs very well but recently the lathe takes along time to run down and stop when the stop switch is pressed. Is this anything to do with the capacitor, there is no problem starting it.
 

Jamied

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Hi Davey,
I have the same machine and I've noticed the same thing. Sorry I've no solution, I'm not electrically minded. Cracking machine !
pipper to move though!
 

MorrisWoodman12

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Not completely sure of my facts here as I'm not a motor man just did electronics for 50 years. Don't think it has anything to do with with the capacitor as that's for starting. Usually a motor is braked by dumping the energy (it works like a generator as it slows) into a resistive load. That's regenerative braking on cars! Afraid I've no idea what your problem is likely to be.
 

Gordon Tarling

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Yes, the capacitor is normally used for starting and/or running and plays no part in stopping. It would appear that there are several versions of this lathe that were produced, all with different drive variations. If you're able to find a circuit diagram for your own version, then it may be possible to help diagnose the problem. Google is your friend!

G.
 

DAVE Y

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Thanks to everyone; there doesn't appear to be a manual for this model.I'll just have to watch my fingers when slowing it on the 4 jaw chuck.I still have 5 on each hand!!!
 

DAVE Y

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Hi Davey,
I have the same machine and I've noticed the same thing. Sorry I've no solution, I'm not electrically minded. Cracking machine !
pipper to move though!
I have cured the problem this morning; took the switch out and it was full of black dust behind it, possibly from the belt running for 20 years without being serviced. I cleared this out and the problem was still there. I took the top cover off and it looked like a coal shed in there; cleaned it up with the Dyson.

I then brushed it out on the shafts and applied oil (3in1) to the belt adjuster and the rear drive shaft spring.

Tried it and a presto just like new.

Worth giving it a try, make a note of the belt dimensions while you have the cover off.
 

Graeme48

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I did a thread on replacing the bearing if you search for it - it's not difficult.
A little bit of thread hijack here - apologies. I have followed the thread about replacing belt and bearings, bought the bits and about to take the plunge (particularly as the capacitor seems to have gone now). Two questions - is there any best sequence of disassembly/reassembly and should the variable speed be set to either top or bottom end of the speed range to do this?
Thanks
 

Graeme48

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Thanks to everyone; there doesn't appear to be a manual for this model.I'll just have to watch my fingers when slowing it on the 4 jaw chuck.I still have 5 on each hand!!!
Hi Dave, I've got a 28-40, variable mechanical speed, bought in 1991 and have a manual which I have converted to PDF format. Although there are a number of different models, it may help as a starting point if you would like a copy.
 

DAVE Y

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Hi Dave, I've got a 28-40, variable mechanical speed, bought in 1991 and have a manual which I have converted to PDF format. Although there are a number of different models, it may help as a starting point if you would like a copy.
I've just got back from holiday
Hi Dave, I've got a 28-40, variable mechanical speed, bought in 1991 and have a manual which I have converted to PDF format. Although there are a number of different models, it may help as a starting point if you would like a copy.
I have just returned from holiday. I would appreciate a copy of your Pdf document. Thanks for the offer.
 

DAVE Y

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I have just returned from holiday. I would appreciate a copy of your Pdf document. Thanks for the offer.
 

DAVE Y

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A little bit of thread hijack here - apologies. I have followed the thread about replacing belt and bearings, bought the bits and about to take the plunge (particularly as the capacitor seems to have gone now). Two questions - is there any best sequence of disassembly/reassembly and should the variable speed be set to either top or bottom end of the speed range to do this?
Thanks
I have a new equivalent capacitor from RS, still in the sealed package; cured my problem by cleaning away all the dust and 3in 1 on the shafts. Available if you want it.
 

Graeme48

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I have a new equivalent capacitor from RS, still in the sealed package; cured my problem by cleaning away all the dust and 3in 1 on the shafts. Available if you want it.
Thanks Dave - like you, I bought a new capacitor, then cleaned everything up and found it all works, so I already have a spare. If I've got the technology right, manual should be attached.
 

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DAVE Y

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Thanks Graeme, the technology worked.
It takes you back a bit with the typeface, how things have come on.
 

Phil Pascoe

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Things that to my mind improve it, one is to replace the little bars and knobs that lock the tailstock and the carriage with a decent sized handle - they either lock tightly and are difficult to release or they don't lock properly at all : another is to drill and thread a hole through the banjo to accept a Bristol lever instead of the cam lock -the lever gets in the way and the cam lock doesn't work particularly well. Oh, and concreting the bed bars makes them more rigid and adds weight. :)

edit - if you do any amount of long hole boring, take the circlip off the handwheel on the tailstock - you will need to unclog the quill from time to time, and rather than faff about trying to find the circlip pliers (you put away somewhere you wouldn't lose them) just wrap a cable tie around it - it holds the handwheel well enough and when the time comes just pull it off. Undo the grub screws holding the bed bars and turn the bars slightly - it evens out any wear.
 
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Graeme48

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Things that to my mind improve it, one is to replace the little bars and knobs that lock the tailstock and the carriage with a decent sized handle - they either lock tightly and are difficult to release or they don't lock properly at all : another is to drill and thread a hole through the banjo to accept a Bristol lever instead of the cam lock -the lever gets in the way and the cam lock doesn't work particularly well. Oh, and concreting the bed bars makes them more rigid and adds weight. :)
Totally agree about all little bars and knobs - PITA. I've lost count of bruises and scrapes trying to undo some of these; already have Bristol lever on banjo and never thought about concrete in bars but have two cwt concrete inside bench top instead.
 
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