Poolewood 28 - 40 new bearings

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Phil Pascoe

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Poolewood 28 - 40 new bearings, a follow up to 28 40 Lathe head stock rebuild / bearings / belt etc (which for some reason is locked.)
Just in case anyone else is toying with doing the bearings on theirs I thought I'd post a few more pictures and an idea or two.
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The shells were a pig to remove, so using the fire extinguisher theory (if you've got one you'll never need it :D ) I used a chainsaw file to put two small grooves in the casting to allow a drift to be used to start them off if they ever need to come out again. The third pic. is one of the new shells. I have a puller somewhere but I struggle to find it once every fifteen years, so I actually dreamed this up last night - who says the brain doesn't work subconsciously? It worked, though it buckled the coach bolts the bearing was on that tightly. For cost of manufacture I suppose, the flange on the sheaf is machined to the same diameter all the way along, so the bearing needs to pulled the whole way, not just off the part it needs to seat on. A cup of tea is in order, it's nearly cold enough to put a jumper on. The bearing and speed change housing are in front of a heater and the sheaf is in the freezer.
 

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Phil Pascoe

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The bearing numbers are -
30205 2z 25mm x 52mm x 16.25mm
30206 2z 30mm -x 62mm x 17mm
6010 2z 50mm x 80mm x 16mm
2z or zz - it varies by manufacturer.
I also bought oil seals for the tapered rollers, it seemed daft not to for the cost as there's a fair bit of dust around - be aware if you do use them for the larger one 30mm fits, but for the smaller one it fits on the shaft behind the shoulder the bearing sits against so it's 28mm not 25mm. A 25mm will just about fit, however. Damhikt. :D
I used FAG from BearingsRus, the lot was just under £40.
 

Phil Pascoe

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The spring is easy to compress - put a long set screw or coach bolt with a nut on it into the spindle and do it up, making sure the little pin aligns on the end of the spring. When fully done up put a couple of pieces of wood between it and the body and let the pressure off, then remove the bolt and put the original back. It's a hell spring to compress any other way.
 

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Jamied

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I have the same machine, which I love, solid and well made.
My bearings are ok at present , but I appreciate the advice. Good work.
A lot of people would have condemned it to the woodturning place in the sky!
 

logrover

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Thanks Phil for this (and the previous) write up all that time ago. I'm just doing the same job now on my 28-40 and your photos, part numbers, and tips have been very helpful.
cheers,
neil.
 

logrover

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My bearings arrived today so completed the rebuild along the same lines as Phil helpfully documented. A few extra pointers in case it helps others:

- Bearing numbers given earlier were correct, but just the 6010 is 2Z (two shields), as the 30205 and 30206 are taper bearings without shields so no 2Z.
- My speed change bearing didn't need a puller as Phil did, so could be pulled off by hand. It was a tight fit in the carrier though but could be tapped out easily as good access.
- heating bearings on top of workshop heater whilst spindle was in a plastic bag in a snowdrift outside helped on reassembly....
- trick with bolt/threaded bar to get spring safely off and on works very well. I used threaded rod and its M8.
- Once you seat the taper bearings the instructions say, slack off nut, handtighten, loosen 1/8th a turn. this however probably wont align grubscrew with flat on spindle (not mentioned in manual). rather than make too loose or too tight to align, you can try turning nut over and it may tighten in different position, or use a spacer washer to take up the slack (or both as i did in the picture below):

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These were the parts ready for spindle reassembly :
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All back together:
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and running:
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In the last photo above, note washer under M8 socket cap bolt holding on the spring retaining plate. This was missing originally, and the bolt bottomed out before the plate pulled snuggly onto the motor shaft, so didn't sit square. Once I'd figured that out and added the washer (as on the parts diagram), it at least looked better when rotating.

Hope those additions help a bit further.
 

Graeme48

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Afternoon all. I've been following this thread with interest as, having gone back to woodturning during lockdown, I have decided to overhaul my PW28-40 as shown above. There is one other question in my mind however - these posts have referred to a drive belt of 28x8x765, and subsequently 28x8x750. When I take the cover off my machine, I see that apart from needing a good cleanup, the belt on mine is 28x8x700 ????
Can anyone give me a recommendation for the correct belt for this machine and the reasons or practicality of any variations in length, this does seem quite a big difference. Finally, when refitting, should the belt be tensioned at the high end of the speed range or the low?
Thanks in advance for all advice
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logrover

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Afternoon all. I've been following this thread with interest as, having gone back to woodturning during lockdown, I have decided to overhaul my PW28-40 as shown above. There is one other question in my mind however - these posts have referred to a drive belt of 28x8x765, and subsequently 28x8x750. When I take the cover off my machine, I see that apart from needing a good cleanup, the belt on mine is 28x8x700 ????
Can anyone give me a recommendation for the correct belt for this machine and the reasons or practicality of any variations in length, this does seem quite a big difference. Finally, when refitting, should the belt be tensioned at the high end of the speed range or the low?
Thanks in advance for all advice
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My belt was originally 28x8x765 and i replaced it with 28x8x750 as that was closest I could find (as others had advised on here), and being only 15mm shorter it shouldn't have much impact. Motor could be slid in slotted holes to compensate but i didn't bother. Yours of 28x8x700 may have been replaced already and is a bit shorter, so perhaps the motor has been slid closer to spindle, or maybe you are not getting the full speed range?

As for tensioning, not sure what would be required there? When i replaced mine I just checked i had a good speed range without the belt bottoming out on the shafts or riding off them at other extreme - all was good so i left motor position unchanged in slots.

For your belt, if all working well then you could replace with a 700 (they are listed on ebay), but perhaps the 750 would help if you were having range limitations. I can't picture it just now, so maybe try adjusting to fully slow and fully fast as visualising what that extra length would give you (position on pulley)?
 

Graeme48

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My belt was originally 28x8x765 and i replaced it with 28x8x750 as that was closest I could find (as others had advised on here), and being only 15mm shorter it shouldn't have much impact. Motor could be slid in slotted holes to compensate but i didn't bother. Yours of 28x8x700 may have been replaced already and is a bit shorter, so perhaps the motor has been slid closer to spindle, or maybe you are not getting the full speed range?

As for tensioning, not sure what would be required there? When i replaced mine I just checked i had a good speed range without the belt bottoming out on the shafts or riding off them at other extreme - all was good so i left motor position unchanged in slots.

For your belt, if all working well then you could replace with a 700 (they are listed on ebay), but perhaps the 750 would help if you were having range limitations. I can't picture it just now, so maybe try adjusting to fully slow and fully fast as visualising what that extra length would give you (position on pulley)?
Thanks for that. I'll check the current motor position before I buy although I suspect its at the forward end of any range. With the cover off and the motor running, the belt is very slack towards the upper end of the speed range, to the extent that I didn't want to take it to the extreme.
 

logrover

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I'm just thinking aloud here and no real knowledge of these lathes, but the belt runs by friction on its sides against the variable pulley - and looking at your photo there is a lot of worn rubber dust around, which will have come from the edges of the belt thus making the belt narrower and sitting in a different position in the tapered pulleys than previously - so it's not just the difference in static belt length to consider, but also the width which will i think impact its effective length.

The belt i got was £28 from a seller on ebay - maybe worth getting one and trying it. You can ease it around the spring on the motor shaft so dont have to undo that as the manual says, but no way around the getting the spindle out the front to get the new belt in position.
 

Graeme48

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I'm just thinking aloud here and no real knowledge of these lathes, but the belt runs by friction on its sides against the variable pulley - and looking at your photo there is a lot of worn rubber dust around, which will have come from the edges of the belt thus making the belt narrower and sitting in a different position in the tapered pulleys than previously - so it's not just the difference in static belt length to consider, but also the width which will i think impact its effective length.

The belt i got was £28 from a seller on ebay - maybe worth getting one and trying it. You can ease it around the spring on the motor shaft so dont have to undo that as the manual says, but no way around the getting the spindle out the front to get the new belt in position.
Thanks. I must confess that my interest is in woodturning not mechanics, but thanks to all the information on this forum I think I'm ready to install new bearings, belt and general overhaul, so front spindle is coming out anyway. Poor old lathe has seen more action in the last year than in the previous 15. It looks like I can get all the bearings and a belt from George Lodge in Hull - if it doesn't fit, expect to see it on Ebay in the near future. Just one more dumb question though, the belts appear to be straight-sided, with no taper on the side to fit against the pulley - is that correct?
 

jrwhutson

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Hi,

Thanks for your reply to my original questions on bearings. I have received the 2 shaft bearings for each end of the shaft and I can fit them OK. The bearing in the middle is the one I am having trouble with. I will get a puller to remove it.

In photo 1 you can see a hole for a pin. There are actually 2 holes. The pin which we removed was broken.

I am not clear what their purpose is because the bearing is a very tight fit on the shaft and the cover is a very tight fit on the outer shell of the bearing. What would happen if I refitted the new bearing without the pins?

Can anyone tell me the size of the pins in case I have to reorder?
 

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