Polyurethane superglue

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WoodPecker

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Is Polyurethane superglue or Titebond polyurethane hard to get hold of? I haven't come across it over here, but then again I've only looked locally and I well and truely live in the sticks. The other problem I have is that screwfix don't deliver here, not sure about other online suppliers. If anyone could suggest some brands to look out for it could help.
Thanks in advance.
 
Adrian

Try Ney (Ireland) in Lisburn. They are a woodworking trades distributor for adhesives, edgebanding, etc and cover the whole of the island of Ireland. Well respected supplier and willing (here in the UK) to handle smallish quantities. They sell PVA, PU, hot melt glues, etc.

Scrit
 
Obviously you can buy Gorilla Glue from Brimarc, Rutlands and many others. My favoured brand is Balcotan which you can buy from Melco (01453 833985 or 01260 276997). I've not heard of polyurethane superglue, but certainly would like to know more if such a thing exists.
 
I've not heard of polyurethane superglue

I got the info from another thread, not sure if it is actually superglue.

Thanks for all the links and info.

Trev,

That link you sent me for turners retreat could leave ma a broken man :?
 
Just a quick question, I thought titebond was aliphatic resin glue? and that something like Gorilla glue was poly glue? I might be wrong, but I wanted to clear it up so that I dont buy the wrong stuff next time ;-)

Axminster do a nice range of glues, and stock most of the Titebond range. And i've also noticed numerous ebay sellers in the crafts > Woodwork section selling both titebond and gorilla glue.
 
"I thought titebond was aliphatic resin glue? "

Titebond red, blue and green is but Titebond Polyurethene (Brown label) is, well, polyurethene...

Noel
 
Polyurethane and superglue are completely different compounds, so it's hard to imagine merging the two into one product, IMO. "Superglues" are cyanoacrylate glues a different chemical family to the polyurethanes - they are basically acrylic resins - although they, too require the hydroxyl ions in water to cure in the same way that 1-component PUR (polyurethane) glues do. Heat reactivated PU glues such as edge banding hot melt, etc. seem to react very little if at all to water.

Beware of cyanoacrylate glues as most contain ethyl or methyl alcohol, either of which is toxic (not to mention highly flamable), but if you ever do manage to glue your fingers together, acetone nail-polish remover will generally undo the damage (so you need to rob the wife's dressing table before using it, just in case :lol: ). For that matter 1-part PU glues are NOT UV proof (sunlight - ever seen the results of expanding building foams exposed to sunlight for a few years) and uncured adhesive is a known carcinogen (PUR contains Diphenylmethan-4,4'-diiosocyanate according to the COSHH sheets). It is best to wear disposable gloves when handling PU glues as the black hardened skin resulting from skin contact can take days to scrub off with a pumice stone (meths works if you are VERY quick, so if anyone knows a non-toxic alternative, I'd be glad to hear from them). So, be careful with either of them.

Had to do the techie bit on this as part of my Safety and Hazard Assessment :?

Byron - Personally I don't see the point in buying Titebond aliphatic resin - aliphatic resin is just another name for polyvinyl acetate - or if you want to be basic, it's fundamentally a starch. There are plenty of firms making PVAs in the UK and EU so where's the environmental "advantage" to shipping it across the Atlantic? If you want a PVA which sets permamently, is waterproof and doesn't creep, simply look for one which is type D3. Similarly Gorilla glue is actually made in Denmark (or was the last time I looked at a bottle) and has probably done a lot of travelling by the time it gets here (via the USofA). Greenie rant over :lol:

Scrit
 
Scrit,

Cheers for clearing the differences up for me - you seem to be a font of knowledge on my recent threads - much appreciated! :D
 
at the show today gorilla glue was £12.95 last year i got it for £8. :shock: have prices gone up that much .

frank
 
Frank

Problem is that all plastic-based glues have risen in price this year due to the oil price hikes. Almost all of the resins used in PU, cyanoacrylate, UF, RF, etc. glues are derived from petroleum.

Scrit
 
Screwfix does the 5 min polyurathan, works for me, like it much better then the yellow glue, as it sets immediate and you can continue working, not to wait overnight for the glue to cure.

McLuma
 
A few of points to watch with PU glues:

1. Make sure that there is some moisture in the joint, otherwise it won't set
2, Don't try to use PU glues below 7 to 8°C - most simply don't set at all at temperatures below 5°C and the colder they are the slower they set
3. Squeeze the air out of the bottle after use - it prevents the glue from reacting with moisture trapped in the bottle
4. Store PU glues above 5°C - freezing kills them
5. Most PU glues have a shelf life of 6 to 12 months. This can be reduced once the bottle is open (see 3 above)

I wouldn't say that PU works better than PVA - a cross linked PVA (i.e. a D3) should actually have better holding strength than PU as well as being much cheaper. Where PUs score is their speed - however, it comes at quite a cost

Scrit
 
If you are interested there is a tutorial here, although personally I avoid using epoxy on an antique plane handle and I have in the past plumped for something a little more reversible, such as hide glue :shock: - it might break again but at least it is reversible and redo-able. You need to clean the joint, but forget about wiping it with white spirits or acetone to reduce the oils in the glue (if it is a rosewood or cocobolo), as research has shown that just weakens the joint. a place to look might be the Old Tools Archive.

Scrit
 

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