Polyurethane Construction Adhesive

[transatlantic]

I've seen this being used in youtubes videos for shop builds and other cases where normal PVA wood glue doesn't work well (end grain, cold conditions etc). Is there a UK equivalent people would recommend?

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Hi - I've used the Evo-Stik and the Everbuild. I prefer the latter (it's cheaper and less expansive) but both do the job. I find this kind of glue very handy, the downsides are: it's pretty toxic (although fairly inert once cured), expands to fill gaps (so always needs a good cleanup), goes off fast (I think the last two are actually pluses as well as minuses) . I think PU is one of the preferred types for use with Accoya. Cheers, W2S

https://www.screwfix.com/p/evo-stik-pol ... 10ml/40778

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Adhesi ... Gel/p78519

 

[MikeG.]

Don't get it on your hands!

 

[Beau]

I used Balcotan for years and it was great. Sadly no longer imported into the UK but the suppliers recommended Collano as the next best thing. This was for boat building so should be more than good enough for regular construction. https://marinestore.co.uk/Collano_Sempa ... ment_.html

 

[transatlantic]

hmmm. I already have some of this :

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p93568

I'm not sure that is the same stuff though. The stuff he uses is grey/white, a bit like a gripfill, more of a construction adhesive and not a wood glue

 

[Doug71]

Could you be getting mixed up with a polymer based adhesive/sealant like Stixall, these work in all conditions and stick anything to anything?

https://www.bcprofiles.co.uk/everbuild- ... gJLbvD_BwE

Doug

 

[MattRoberts]

This may be of interest https://youtu.be/SoMrOWzB-zw

And bear in mind that John Heisz uses it mainly because its very cold in Canada. Normal wood glue should work in temperatures of about 5-10 degrees just fine

 

[Phil Pascoe]

hmmm. I already have some of this :

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p93568

I'm not sure that is the same stuff though. The stuff he uses is grey/white, a bit like a gripfill, more of a construction adhesive and not a wood glue

That's a pretty standard PU adhesive - the cartridge stuff is much thicker.

 

[will1983]

Try Sikaflex EBT. Amazingly strong stuff. Almost everything in my last workshop was held together with it!
It is a filler/sealant/adhesive. You can get it from Screwfix. But as others have said don't get it on your hands. If you do, use white spirit to get it off.

Will

 

[Woody2Shoes]

hmmm. I already have some of this :

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p93568

I'm not sure that is the same stuff though. The stuff he uses is grey/white, a bit like a gripfill, more of a construction adhesive and not a wood glue

The stuff you have should be fine - D4 is more than adequate for most joinery projects. I think that it is moisture which triggers the curing process - one reason why PU-based has better low temp. performance than PVA-based gear.

I think that there are many variations on the theme, with "Construction grade" stuff having various additives/fillers to control/reduce expansion rates or curing times etc. . A key property of PU-based stuff being "quick grab" i.e. it's bloomin' sticky stuff and will stick almost anything to almost anything else, can cure quickly and forms an inert water-resistant bond.

 

[transatlantic]

This may be of interest https://youtu.be/SoMrOWzB-zw

And bear in mind that John Heisz uses it mainly because its very cold in Canada. Normal wood glue should work in temperatures of about 5-10 degrees just fine

Yes, I did mention that,

 

[transatlantic]

hmmm. I already have some of this :

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p93568

I'm not sure that is the same stuff though. The stuff he uses is grey/white, a bit like a gripfill, more of a construction adhesive and not a wood glue

That's a pretty standard PU adhesive - the cartridge stuff is much thicker.

Oh right - I thought it was the same stuff in different containers

 

[RobinBHM]

dont be fooled into thinking because it is gap filling it can be used successfully to get over loose joints. It will fill gaps but it will have low strength -there are a few youtube clips testing it.

PVA glue is actually one of the strongest glues and D4 glue is often still used in joinery manufacture, perhaps more in Europe where they dont have such damp wet conditions!

We use PU a lot for joinery construction because the fast setting PU sets in about 30mins or so and can be worked on from around an hour or more.

Wurth sell a hand cleaner that gets it off hands! I dont know how it does as the cleaner is not a solvent based type.

Completely cured PU is very difficult to get off hands!



Accoya needs to be glued with PU, cascamite and pva is not suitable.

 

[transatlantic]

Ok, so probably would be better if I explained what I planned on using it for.

- Gluing the edge of plywood or MDF to solid wood (or to another sheet material)
- Gluing end grain to end grain, such as a mitre joint

So basically a glue that won't soak into end grain of solid wood, or the edges of ply/mdf

I know I can do the above with fastners or any other number of more complex joints, but I want to experiment with butt joint glue only.

I have tried using the PU glue I linked above with gluing the edges of MDF to solid wood, and it just soaked into the MDF and made for a very weak joint

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Thinking about it, I seem to remember this subject arising before - I don't think the stuff that was being used in the YouTube clips was a standard PU, it was something else. Maybe this'll prompt someone's memory?

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Ok, so probably would be better if I explained what I planned on using it for.

- Gluing the edge of plywood or MDF to solid wood (or to another sheet material)
- Gluing end grain to end grain, such as a mitre joint

So basically a glue that won't soak into end grain of solid wood, or the edges of ply/mdf

I know I can do the above with fastners or any other number of more complex joints, but I want to experiment with butt joint glue only.

I have tried using the PU glue I linked above with gluing the edges of MDF to solid wood, and it just soaked into the MDF and made for a very weak joint

Here's the datasheet for the stuff you've used: https://www.everbuild.co.uk/wp-content/ ... ve%206.pdf

There's nothing obvious in that which suggests it shouldn't be applicable to what you're trying to use it for. You could do worse than a call/email to the EverBuild technical helpline. Maybe priming the mating surfaces (with dilute PVA) first might reduce the "suction" effect?

https://www.everbuild.co.uk/about-us/contact-us/

Cheers, W2S