Please help me fix my cold and damp workshop

[davin]

Dont know if it`s any help,
Just looked a the Uckfield/Brighton friday-ad.
And someone was selling celotex sheets quite cheap, (in the tools and diy section on the website)

Davin

 

[Jacob]

Yes to vapour barrier on the warm side (under the finishing board but over the insulation).
Emergency solution to my cold workshop prob; oil filled radiator. No it doesn't heat the workshop but it does heat my knees and thighs if I lean against it, having sited it in front of the bench.
Or better - can stand astride it if I'm doing a stationary job such as marking up.
I wondered about tying it on to a leg and having it on castors so it'd stay between my knees all the time.
Not joking - it works!
Then if you had a big apron like a skirt all around it etc etc :roll:

 

[bg]

Mr Grim,
I think you may be better off with a hair drier attached to a hose that is put up one trouser leg. Of course you will need some elastic on the bottom of said trouser leg to stop the hot air escaping and to direct it up the trouser leg. Do not elasticate the other trouser leg however to allow the hot air to circulate as trapped air could inflate the trousers to a dangerous degree. :shock:

 

[Triggaaar]

Thanks all for the replies

I am having a similar problem, the difference with me is hat i have a Concrete Panelled Garage, that is single skinned as well, i sort of hijacked a current thread about it.

That sounds pretty similar, thanks.

build an inner frame and just leave a small gap between the wall and the inner stud wall, the concrete on the inside of the garage i will be using a Liquid DPM on, might work for youafter you have sorted the outside of the wall out.

I've seen inner walls used in other threads here - looks like a nice solution, but I don't have the space. Outside wall appears to be fixed.

But remember to place a DPM or Plastic sheet between the inside board of the workshop and the studwork and insulaion. It was explained to me that the DPM will avoid any moisture from the workshop getting through and causing the insulation to get damp.

Are you using soft fibre style insulation? If so, you need to keep it dry. With closed cell insulation I don't think it's as important, but I guess I probably should have some vapour barrier (otherwise I'll get condensation around the insulation and outside wall). I've just finished insulating the ceiling, and I put spare dpm under the insulation, then OSB under that. I thought OSB was supposed to prevent vapour going through it, but I haven't ceiled the gaps (dpm behind) and with rockwool above I thought it was fairly important.

Hope it helps in some way m8.

Cheers

Dave

Yes, still not sure if I need the void, but I will add a vapour barrier, thanks.

Dont know if it`s any help,
Just looked a the Uckfield/Brighton friday-ad.
And someone was selling celotex sheets quite cheap, (in the tools and diy section on the website)

Davin

Oo, think I'm too late, but I'll have a peek, thanks.

Emergency solution to my cold workshop prob; oil filled radiator. No it doesn't heat the workshop but it does heat my knees and thighs if I lean against it, having sited it in front of the bench.
Or better - can stand astride it if I'm doing a stationary job such as marking up.

I know what you mean - my PC is in a conservatory, and it's really cold in winter, so I straddle an electric rad. Hopefully I'll be able to heat the workshop enough, but if not, I shall do as you do.

 

[Jacob]

Mr Grim,
I think you may be better off with a hair drier attached to a hose that is put up one trouser leg. Of course you will need some elastic on the bottom of said trouser leg to stop the hot air escaping and to direct it up the trouser leg. Do not elasticate the other trouser leg however to allow the hot air to circulate as trapped air could inflate the trousers to a dangerous degree. :shock:

Hmm. I see the logic. Have you tried this yourself? (risk of exploding trousers :shock: )
Strange coincidence - I was listening to some tapes of The Goon Show earlier today. :lol:

 

[tisdai]

I've seen inner walls used in other threads here - looks like a nice solution, but I don't have the space. Outside wall appears to be fixed.

You might only need to leave an inch space between the 2, personally i would rather do this than have it touching the outer concrete wall, just incase and i will be using solid insulation between the studs.

 

[Triggaaar]

You might only need to leave an inch space between the 2, personally i would rather do this than have it touching the outer concrete wall, just incase and i will be using solid insulation between the studs.

Any idea what the gap does? I'm getting very protective over my inches. My workshop tapers from 6'6" down to 6', and that's before I lose at least 2.5" with insulation and OSB. Much thinner than I'm happy with, but the guest house took priority.

 

[tisdai]

For me personally it is to keep the 2 apart from each other. If i do get damp on the outer concrete wall i don't want ti carrying through or touching the inner wall and it will help with ventilation arround the outer edge of the insulation.

 

[cmwatt]

I'd phone someone like Kingspan (or Knauff) and ask about their Dry Lining solutions. Check out their website: http://www.insulation.kingspan.com/uk/k18.htm

Craig.

 

[Triggaaar]

I'd phone someone like Kingspan

Good idea, and thanks for the link.

As per the link (and downloadable pdf), they said the gap was basically in case any moisture were to come through the single skin wall. If it was cladded on the outside etc, you wouldn't need the gap. I've gone without the gap, since I didn't have the requred battens and I think I'll be ok. Add if it were to get damp, I'd just unscrew it and fine the problem, possibly refit with battens.

Thanks all for the help.

 

[devonwoody]

Emigrate to Australia would be cheaper in the long run. :wink:

 

[Triggaaar]

Emigrate to Australia would be cheaper in the long run. :wink:

Well I don't seem to be having any problems. I haven't had any damp for 6 months (ie, since I fixed the outside of the wall).

I've now insulated the inside and fixed OSB everywhere, and my next job is to add some ventilation. I'd like to try an idea that Mike Garnham suggested:
a high level extract fan on a timer and/or humidistat, and a low-level inlet on the opposite wall (which I think will be my front doors), and also possibly wiring up a couple of 100W light bulbs that switch on when the internal temperature drops.

Any idea how to get the lights working off a temperature gauge?
And any recommendations on an extractor fan with a humidstat that would work in this situation (it's not like it'll be as humid as a bathroom, so I don't know if it needs to be particularly sensitive).

Thanks

 

[Alex]

Why lights bulbs? They're not efficient heaters at all and placeing is problem, hot air rises. Why not get tube heaters, IP55 rated very safe, low consumption, can be placed low on wall and easily rigged to a wall thermostat or simply plugged into timer plug.
http://www.greenhousepeople.co.uk/acces ... se_heater/
If the buildings been dry for several months and not likely to get damp I wouldn't bother with ventilation.

 

[Triggaaar]

Why lights bulbs? They're not efficient heaters at all and placeing is problem, hot air rises.

Thanks for that link, looks good. Mike Garnham suggested light bulbs, possibly because it's easy to wire up with a fan, I don't know (I'll let him answer for himself).

If the buildings been dry for several months and not likely to get damp I wouldn't bother with ventilation.

I'm not expecting damp from the outside, but condensation is always a problem.
Correct me if I'm understanding this wrong: If the air is fresh, and it's just a tiny bit warmer inside than outside, then the air shouldn't reach its dew point. But if warm air comes in during the day, and that same air then cools overnight, the air can't then support the moisture it has in it, and you get condensation on your tools etc.

Air circulation might be the most important thing, is a fan with a humidstat the most suitable way to stop condensation in workshops?

 

[Alex]

Without going in to the realms of an air heat exchange unit, bringing cold air into the building will require heating otherwise when warm meets cold you'll get condensation. Convention of uncovered heaters will give you relative circulation. If you can make building relatively air tight I'd use a dehumidifier with humidistat or timed plug.

Edit- on second thought maybe heat recovery units are the way of the future as you have dehumidifier in build, ventilation and circulation to boot. Add a few tube heaters and thermostat and you've got ultimate solution. Here small wall unit on ebay http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HR100W-Bathroom-K ... 3a5e068048
I think small wall unit is diyable. Maybe something like pc fan with separated air paths with thin alu or such bang tray and drain Bob's your uncle. Might have to have ago.