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Planer blade setting jig

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Harbo

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I have one of the original ones they sold and it works fine for me.

I still check the setting afterwards with the rotating rule method to be sure!

Rod
 

Digit

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On some planers John I have found that the cutter block is not level with the tables by some thou. I would check that first if I were you.

Roy.
 

Digit

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I use magnets on the table, the setting is automatic, takes me about 20 minutes.

Roy.
 

OPJ

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I've found the other (more expensive) Rutlands jig to be far more reliable than these (which are also available at Axminster - you may want to check the price...). I always found that the 'flexibility' in the pair of jigs would allow one end of each knife to sit higher or lower than the other in the block. To try and compensate for that, you could press down on the jigs but that could too easily push a knife in so it was then too low in the block.

Roy's advice is also worth noting. You really should check to see that your cutter block is parallel to the surfacing tables - and, perhaps also, the thicknessing bed. If any discrepancy is not too severe though, you may be able to compensate by offsetting one of the jigs and marking it so it is to be used solely on that one side of the machine (ie. left or right hand only). Hope that makes sense! :)
 

devonwoody

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Many thanks for all advice and response.

I went out and measured the space available between tables on my SIP 1332 planer/thicknesser and there is around 45mm space where the cutter block lays between the tables.

However if I remove the out feed table on the planer tables there is plenty of space, and bearing in mind these adjusters are for setting blade height not table height would that be OK?
 

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RogerP

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devonwoody":2yvp1rvn said:
Many thanks for all advice and response.
I went out and measured the space available between tables on my SIP 1332 planer/thicknesser and there is around 45mm space where the cutter block lays between the tables.
However if I remove the out feed table on the planer tables there is plenty of space, and bearing in mind these adjusters are for setting blade height not table height would that be OK?
I also have the SIP 1332 P/T, same as yours, and I set my knifes simply by laying a couple of sheets of A4 paper (gives about 0.0015") on the in-feed table then slide an aluminium ruler on edge across the paper to touch the blades and set them to just level. Doing both sides of each blade is quick and easy and works very well for me. Seems to me its better to set the knifes with reference to the table.
 

devonwoody

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Thanks.

I think it is going to be a lost cause for me.

Measured my cutter block diameter this morning and it only goes 52mm and the width of the legs are 60mm. There are other obstructions besides the table tops in the way. So decided to switch off.
 

deema

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I recently purchase a Oneway multiple gauge from the USA. I was looking for an accurate way the blades and could not find a really satisfactory method using the products available in the UK. This is a substantial casting with a click gauge that you use to set the blades relative to the putters table. Takes about 5 minutes a blade, but you set the blades accurately to a known height. The difference it makes s amazing
 

Digit

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Yep! Based on many years of practise I would say that setting other than from the tables is likely to produce unsatisfactory results.
Having said that, my thicknesser is set from the cutter block, but that is adjustable to the table.

Roy.
 
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