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Planer Blade Height?

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PeteG

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I've taken my blades in this morning to be sharpened. I'll be using a OneWay Gauge to set the blade height, so what is the ideal height to set
them above the out feed table?
 

Pete Maddex

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MikeG.":3a728k0g said:
Flush-ish

The cutters make scallops, the deepest part of the scallops it higher than the surface level of the outfeed table. so slightly higher that flush.

Pete
 

Distinterior

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I thought i read or viewed somewhere...(a Steve Maskery video perhaps...?) that to set up the planer blades correctly, you placed a flat scrap of wood on the outfeed table overhanging the cutter head, then rotated the cutter head by hand and the scrap of flat wood should only move towards you by about 4 or 5mm...? or have I misunderstood?
 

Demusss

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Distinterior":33yizjut said:
I thought i read or viewed somewhere...(a Steve Maskery video perhaps...?) that to set up the planer blades correctly, you placed a flat scrap of wood on the outfeed table overhanging the cutter head, then rotated the cutter head by hand and the scrap of flat wood should only move towards you by about 4 or 5mm...? or have I misunderstood?
I've tried that method. Very fiddly so I just made them flush.
Since then I've seen a suggestion to put a sheet of paper or two on the outfeed table and then use a straight edge on the paper to set the blade height.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

PeteG

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Appreciate the replies gents :) There is a piece of alloy block supplied with a section cut out, 4/5 mm, but I'd prefer to use the OneWay.
I guess I need to set the blades a smidgen above the table. I thought I'd read somewhere it was 0.002, but I can't remember where I read
it or if it was for something else...
 

Inspector

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Use the supplied tool and then test cut. If it planes true then measure with the Oneway and write the number on the machine, the setting tool or keep it with the Oneway. If the supplied tool doesn't work then adjust until it does cut properly and record the amount.

I assume the outfield table doesn't adjust.
 

PeteG

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Inspector":b98g2xj5 said:
Use the supplied tool and then test cut. If it planes true then measure with the Oneway and write the number on the machine, the setting tool or keep it with the Oneway. If the supplied tool doesn't work then adjust until it does cut properly and record the amount.

I assume the outfield table doesn't adjust.
Appreciated Inspector, that makes sense :) No adjust on the outfeed, that I'm aware of!
 

Inspector

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Understand the out feed problem. My Hitachi jointer/planer is the same. I tried the dial indicator in a mag base and a mushroom tip rather than the Oneway tool but it was too fiddly. I use the stick touching rotation method mentioned earlier. I just have to remember to joint some sticks before I pull the blades out. #-o

Pete
 

Eric The Viking

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I tried flush: not nice. I get better finish by adding a piece of paper on the outfeed table, with the glass plate on top.

I've also tried fussing about with a dial gauge, and moving sticks by a specified amount. Both work, but take ages compared to a piece of glass (or anything flat you can weight down to allow the blades to push up against).

The one issue is that I get snipe from the thicknesser. It is not realistic that it's caused by blade height: I fear the reason is wear in the rise and fall mech, allowing the table to wobble (it is a well-used machine). There are very few other reasons for it that I can see. The planer is spot-on.

I wish I could eliminate it, but it can be reduced by good technique and careful choice of cutting depth. Not ideal, but I can live with it.
 

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