Hi Guys and Girls, i am looking to buy a new hand plane suitable for finishing/tidying up around the tops of small tables/chairs before i put the tops on to get a nice flush finish which means planing end grain, i have no real idea where to start when it comes to hand planes etc some advice would be greatly appreciated.
Plane Crazy
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I think an indication of your budget and if your willing to take on a 'fixer uper' or not will help.
adidat
I will not buy anymore tools...
you probably could do with a low angle block plane.
something like this
would be perfect for the jobs you describe, a bit on the expensive side but a beautifully made plane that will last a life time, wouldn't be without mine. :mrgreen:
160 quid from axminster
or if your budget is smaller then this
90 quid from workshop heaven with three different blades
adidat
something like this
would be perfect for the jobs you describe, a bit on the expensive side but a beautifully made plane that will last a life time, wouldn't be without mine. :mrgreen:
160 quid from axminster
or if your budget is smaller then this
90 quid from workshop heaven with three different blades
adidat
Cheshirechappie
Established Member
I think which sort of plane is best for this depends on how you can hold the work. If you can clamp securely to a good, solid bench, and thus have both hands free to hold and guide the plane, then a Bailey-type smoothing plane (number 4, or the slightly fatter and heavier 4 1/2) would be a versatile and useful tool. If you have to hold the work with one hand, then you'll need a one-handed plane, so a block plane such as the low-angle 60 1/2 would be better. Both (if sharp) will cope well enough with end-grain. (That's a point worth noting, by the way - to get decent performance out of these, or any other, plane, you will need to get to grips with keeping the cutting irons sharp.)
If you're new to planes, it would be well worth buying a good one. There are several budget models out there that even well experienced plane fettlers can struggle to get decent performace out of because they're so badly made - they are a completely false economy. Either stretch the wallet for a Lie-Nielsen, Veritas, Clifton or Quangsheng (from a reputable retailer) or look for a secondhand Stanley or Record in really good condition, again preferably from a reputable secondhand dealer. Don't bother with manky ones unless you want to learn a lot about plane fettling, and spend weeks learning it! I know the good brands are expensive, but you'll only need to pay it once in a lifetime.
If you're new to planes, it would be well worth buying a good one. There are several budget models out there that even well experienced plane fettlers can struggle to get decent performace out of because they're so badly made - they are a completely false economy. Either stretch the wallet for a Lie-Nielsen, Veritas, Clifton or Quangsheng (from a reputable retailer) or look for a secondhand Stanley or Record in really good condition, again preferably from a reputable secondhand dealer. Don't bother with manky ones unless you want to learn a lot about plane fettling, and spend weeks learning it! I know the good brands are expensive, but you'll only need to pay it once in a lifetime.
Eric The Viking
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Search back through the hand tools forum, as there are plane experts there.
One thing I'd say is I've been pleasantly surprised by my Stanley 60 1/2 block plane. It was a Christmas present recently, and the person buying it took advice from the shop - I wouldn't have chosen Stanley these days, because of the build quality.
It's not wonderful in that regard, but a bit of fettling - cleaning and smoothing the rebates the adjustable mouth runs in, and smoothing sole and mouth plate together, so that both are flat and in the same plane(!!!), and it now cuts nicely. It's slightly cheaper than the WH ones, but given the choice I'd rather have one of theirs - much better crafted.
Nine tenths of the ease-of-use comes from having a good blade, kept razor sharp. There are 'new' steels around nowadays, which take and hold a very good edge indeed, and there's one in most of the decent quality block planes (including the Workshop Heaven ones). In my limited experience, they make a huge difference, as block planes take a hammering(!), especially working tough end grain, so the longer you can go between touch-ups and the sharper you can get it to start with, the better.
Knowing how to sharpen it quickly and well will make a huge difference to your satisfaction with it. There are a number of methods, but basically you work down through progressively finer abrasives to get a razor edge, literally. If you're not used to this, it's well worth picking a method and learning it until you can do this quickly and effortlessly. I don't want to start a huge discussion (it's very hotly debated here!), but I use "scary sharp" as I've found it reasonably cheap and silly person-proof (well this silly person, anyway), and quick to get really good results. Most methods work well for almost all edge tools - chisels, etc. - too.
Have fun, and post up the results!
E.
One thing I'd say is I've been pleasantly surprised by my Stanley 60 1/2 block plane. It was a Christmas present recently, and the person buying it took advice from the shop - I wouldn't have chosen Stanley these days, because of the build quality.
It's not wonderful in that regard, but a bit of fettling - cleaning and smoothing the rebates the adjustable mouth runs in, and smoothing sole and mouth plate together, so that both are flat and in the same plane(!!!), and it now cuts nicely. It's slightly cheaper than the WH ones, but given the choice I'd rather have one of theirs - much better crafted.
Nine tenths of the ease-of-use comes from having a good blade, kept razor sharp. There are 'new' steels around nowadays, which take and hold a very good edge indeed, and there's one in most of the decent quality block planes (including the Workshop Heaven ones). In my limited experience, they make a huge difference, as block planes take a hammering(!), especially working tough end grain, so the longer you can go between touch-ups and the sharper you can get it to start with, the better.
Knowing how to sharpen it quickly and well will make a huge difference to your satisfaction with it. There are a number of methods, but basically you work down through progressively finer abrasives to get a razor edge, literally. If you're not used to this, it's well worth picking a method and learning it until you can do this quickly and effortlessly. I don't want to start a huge discussion (it's very hotly debated here!), but I use "scary sharp" as I've found it reasonably cheap and silly person-proof (well this silly person, anyway), and quick to get really good results. Most methods work well for almost all edge tools - chisels, etc. - too.
Have fun, and post up the results!
E.
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/hand-tools/pl ... es---block
If you look here you will find Quangsheng ones from Rutland for under budget at £50.
Ignore the advice to encourage you to spend excessive amounts on the rolls royce model this will do fine. And Rutlands are a fine company as well.
If you look here you will find Quangsheng ones from Rutland for under budget at £50.
Ignore the advice to encourage you to spend excessive amounts on the rolls royce model this will do fine. And Rutlands are a fine company as well.
