Pillar drill
- Thread starter Kaid1289
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Tanglefoot20
Established Member
Hi there... what is the writing on the side of pedestal....it looks like Bullard.
Where on earth did you get it from?....I’d love to see that stripped and done up..I managed to get an old bench drill in September...haven’t started on it yet...but I’ve used it.
Where on earth did you get it from?....I’d love to see that stripped and done up..I managed to get an old bench drill in September...haven’t started on it yet...but I’ve used it.
Hi thank you for your reply it says frank pollard & co .uk Leicester England but the only model I could find was very similar but not the same it’s a wonderful bit of machinery and history and I look forward to restoring it
Tanglefoot20
Established Member
If I remember rightly.... pollards used to make the large vertical turning lathes..
You will have to stay in touch...I’d love to see how it goes.
I used to use a drill bench with 4 spindles on...very similar but more upo date than yours.
Steve
You will have to stay in touch...I’d love to see how it goes.
I used to use a drill bench with 4 spindles on...very similar but more upo date than yours.
Steve
Tanglefoot20
Established Member
Make sure you have loads of WD40 ...it’s great to clean and get things unstuck.
Looks like a 12ax, but hard to tell
this should help:
this should help:
Tanglefoot20
Established Member
I reckon itwould be a beauty when it’s cleaned up and refurbed ..must crack on with my champion no2 sometime...gonna put that back to how it should be...
Spectric
Established Member
Well they certainly don't make drills like that anymore, as we can see they have the ability to last and all that nice cast iron, really solid compared to the recycled tin cans we get today.
TobyT
Established Member
Depends on the state of it. Clean it up and see what state is it in. With my Meddings (still not put back together due to time...) I cleaned the grease and rust and decided that there wasn't much point in trying to save the original paint job as it was too bashed up. So I repainted with a Hammerite (or similar, I can't remember know) spray.
For machine repair I found the mig-welding forums useful as well. Tools & Workshop Equipment
Depends how fresh you want it looking.
strip all the old paint then build up layers of primer and filler getting everything smooth before finishing with a 2 pack paint system.
Or clean it all down with brake cleaner, and a coat of rattle can.
have you checked it all mechanically, worth making sure it runs well and doesn’t have too much run out before spending time prettying it up
strip all the old paint then build up layers of primer and filler getting everything smooth before finishing with a 2 pack paint system.
Or clean it all down with brake cleaner, and a coat of rattle can.
have you checked it all mechanically, worth making sure it runs well and doesn’t have too much run out before spending time prettying it up
The motor surprising works and the chuck spins so nothing is seized I know the pulley Belts are cracked and need replacing and I haven’t checked any of the bearings what tools can I use to strip the old paint and rust off with
TobyT
Established Member
Looks like the one quarter the way down here
A can of this went a long way in the clean up WD-40 Specialist Degreaser 500ml
I used some 'professional' paint stripper. I can't remember what it was off hand, but came with lots of warnings and I had to declare that I was a professional and wouldn't stuff myself in an enclosed space with it. Ordered off ebay from a proper company. Hermes delivered it by throwing it over the garden gate :-o That sorted the majority out and then some drill powered wire brushing. Citric acid to get any rust off.
A can of this went a long way in the clean up WD-40 Specialist Degreaser 500ml
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
Have a look at Wallace's mostly Wadkin rebuilds for some inspiration.
He has restored a lot of stuff
Get it running first before panting....
often guilty of getting the flap disc out after the fact.
Even though I have done this once or twice,
I can say haven't done a good job ever, as I was too mean to buy filler.
Doesn't bother me having all the pitting there, but might bother someone who does that sort of thing.
Make sure you paint with some glossy paint, like tractor enamel or something, as dust just clings to a lesser quality gloss.
Be careful with the windings on that motor, as they could be very delicate.
Take photos of anything what might be confusing like switches.
It should make for a really good machine, as in
no slop in the quill.
Good luck with the restoration
Tom
He has restored a lot of stuff
often guilty of getting the flap disc out after the fact.
Even though I have done this once or twice,
I can say haven't done a good job ever, as I was too mean to buy filler.
Doesn't bother me having all the pitting there, but might bother someone who does that sort of thing.
Make sure you paint with some glossy paint, like tractor enamel or something, as dust just clings to a lesser quality gloss.
Be careful with the windings on that motor, as they could be very delicate.
Take photos of anything what might be confusing like switches.
It should make for a really good machine, as in
no slop in the quill.
Good luck with the restoration
Tom
Definitely a pollard, probably a 12ax. For paint and rust stripping I use a wire wheel in an angle grinder, its messy and dusty but its the fastest way to do it. Tractor enamel is perfect paint for machinery, if you want a really specific colour paragon paints are excellent.
Looks like to 12ax to me but the motor may not be original. There's the option to clean and create a nice patina using a mix of diesel and old engine oil which is what some vintage tractor owners do and they always look fantastically original but clean.
Just been trying to work out the possible age from this post Pollard Corona Drills (lathes.co.uk) but it says Pollard started his business in 1911 whereas the catalogue says '50 years experience' which would put the AX at 1960/61? A bit of poetic license?
Jonm
Established Member
I have recently been using citric acid to clean up metal things. Purchased a big tub of food grade powder, it is not particularly nasty as a chemical, just completely immerse the item in a weak solution. I have not tried it on machinery so would suggest taking advice before using it on your drill. I have cleaned rust off a coblers anvil, concrete solidly attached to a shovel (let a builder use my perfectly clean shovel). Items need to be degreased first. Here is a picture of the anvil after cleaning, it was very rusty beforehand, you can see the pit marks.
