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Pillar drill chuck wrench hack request

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Ttrees

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Hello folks
I seen a fella make a wrench for a broken chuck key/missing one, on youtube, but can't seem to find it now.

No credit card for buying a new one so will have to make something for this chuck key.
The stubby bit of the key is like a mushroom, and the teeth look like that 'trick' with a drill bit and flathead screwdriver was used on it. (now I understand why the teeth looked like this)
Can't complain for 40 pounds though;)

Today was the last straw for using the chuck in a reasonable fashion, the 3 holes on the chuck are not round anymore, might need to be fixed for the new wrench to work, I can't remember exactly how the hack wrench worked, so cannot get away with doing that.

From what I understand this is a 'hack' tool, but it might suffice for quite a long while.
I will get around to getting a decent chuck for my naeroK pillar drill, but can't go anywhere at the moment, and have some steel bits, grinders, a welder, and plenty of toasty rods over the stove.

Hope you have seen this video, and can give a linky.
Thanks folks
Tom
 

Ttrees

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Still looking, the closest thing I found was a spanner wrench...
The idea being that the hole doesn't need to be perfect.
This is about the closest thing I've found to the tool in question.
Surely this isn't that strange of a tool to come across, with people making daft things
on youtube all the time, many involving pillar drills, or should I say 'drill presses'
I would have expected that to be a popular 'hack'
Back to searching I suppose

Tom

If the chuck is completely broken, you may not be able to tighten its jaws on a hex key. In those cases, the Single Wrench or No Wrench Method won't work.
 

Dee J

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The mechanical advantage / leverage on a chuck key is considerable, and any work-around that doesn't use the key's operating principle isn't going to be very effective. But most workshop folks tend to accumulate a variety of chuck keys anyway. Best I could imagine is a couple of Footprint pipe wrenches on the two parts of the chuck. Hth
 

Ttrees

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Thanks for your time Dee J
I imagine that whilst a set of proper pipe wrenches would be effective, I would have to buy them for probably about half the price of ordering a new chuck at the local shop.
This tool seemed effective though, or at least could have been made effective with a little extra work.
I had a good look on youtube last night, and found nothing, not to say the video doesn't exist in what's now an abyss of growing uselessness, but I must say with some annoyance
it looks like you might be onto something.
The fact that someone hasn't copied it, might suggest it wasn't the very best idea, and possibly the 'content creator' has removed the video.
If so, a loss as I would have seen where it could have been improved on.

Still a good grip on this old chuck, pity to throw it in the bin and go through the hassle of sending a postal order to some other company.
Alas I might be better with my time to admit defeat, and have a look at Caulfield industrial tooling.
It would have been nice to make a tool and also help some other bodger in need at the same time.

All the best
Tom
 

Ttrees

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Just for fun, I tried to do that bodge with the screwdriver and chuck key.
Didn't budge and looked a good way of getting a nice slice whilst damaging your flathead.
I didn't realise the hole was so deep, so it seems I might get some more time out of the chuck if I fix the key with a bit of weld later on.

Tom
 

Ttrees

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Hack job I know, but its been sound, got some heavy use for the last few days:)
We welder saved the day again
SAM_4351.JPG


Grind the little sprig off nearly and was making neat work, until I caught a wee flash and thought I was where I wasn't :ROFLMAO:
SAM_4355.JPG

Made a load of work for myself fixing that with a wee file
Was going to be easy going before that
SAM_4357.JPG

I should make a jig for doing this, it would be handy being able to have a bracket for the hand drill that could be tapped closer, that way the drill would less follow the humps and valleys.
Is it worth that for a one time deal though, since I'm always chasing the edges to be somewhere near crisp again.

Held the drill up on some blocks and only a little bit of that saying...
"Tighten her up till you hear the crack, then back it off a quarter of a turn" applied!
Not as nice as it could be but it'll do the job for now.
SAM_4359.JPG


Going through some check ups, aligning the motor pulley to the quill pulley with hacksaw winding sticks made the drill quieter, as well as some panel beating dents out , and making some clearance for the motor was done.
Could be improved with some shims under the belt guard.
Made this wee tool as I don't have a dial indicator to get the table level.
Was likely going to make a complicated thing, but this was knocking about already
SAM_4360.JPG

Works better than you might think.
I knew I had some difficult drilling to do, and got some fancy drill bits so didn't want to break them.

Thanks for looking
Tom
 

Robbo3

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Which chuck are you talking about? One photo shows a chuck with a 'C' spanner, another an electric drill & another a drill press.
There are a number of videos on Youtube if you look for Jacobs chuck key or drill chuck key.
I have several spare chucks. You are welcome to one but I need to know what it fits onto.
 

Ttrees

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Thanks for your offer Robbo
No need as the chuck and key on the pillar drill will be fine for a wee while yet.
I won't be getting into undoing the chuck as that can be a a rabbet hole to go down, checking these things.
The drill works with little runout as it is, and happy with it for the moment.

I have watched a few of those Jacobs chuck removals and more interestingly disassembly, and it looks like I might as well try finding parts to fix mine,
Something to look up to see if it could be cheaper than old stock on the bay.
Cheers
Tom
 

Robbo3

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Jacobs chuck keys are quite cheap.
It's finding the right match that can be difficult when it's an old chuck without any markings.
The drill press looks to be a Morse 2 taper. Just in case you, or others, don't know, your chuck will have a taper in the rear to take an arbor with a morse taper which fits into the quill of the press ie the arbor has 2 different tapers.
- MT2 Drill Chuck Arbors with Drawbar Thread - Arc Euro Trade

Chucks on battery & electric drills are threaded & don't have a taper in the rear.

To remove the chuck & arbor from the drill press lower the chuck to reveal a slot into which you tap a drift
- Drill Drifts - Arc Euro Trade
 

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