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Patina - preliminary observations

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Alf

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I've applied this Patina wood finish to 4 test pieces now, three coats on each. The timbers used were maple, cherry, oak and ash. If you haven't seen this stuff before, it's a bit weird; a sort of gel type finish, a bit like the "slime" I used to buy as a kid, except it isn't green. :roll: Apparently you can add oil stain to it, but how this would work in practice with this gel I don't know. Still on the "to try" list. It's very easy to apply, in fact I would say it's the closest to a fool-proof finish I've come across, except maybe for wax. Gloves and good ventilation are a must.

As far as the finished result goes, personally I find it a little "plasticky". Hardly surprising when it's supposed to be both heat and alcohol resistant really. Certainly on the two close-grained woods - the maple and the cherry - I find it too much of a barrier between you and the wood, although much, much better than a poorly applied varnish. I think it's a lot more sucessful on the open-grained timbers, bringing out the figure in the ash particularly well. It does have something of a yellowing effect I think, which didn't do the maple any favours. One thing it does do is show up any little faults in your finishing technique, due to the glossy finish. I didn't think I'd done too badly just cleaning up my test pieces with plane and scraper; how wrong I was. :shock:

I still have the heat and alcohol tests to do, and I'd like to try rubbing back the gloss a little to see if I can get a slightly more natural look, and then test the resistance again. If anyone's interested, I'll keep you posted.

Cheers, Alf
 

trevtheturner

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Thanks, Alf. Yes, I'm interested to learn how it progresses.

FWIW - when you get round to the alcohol test don't waste too much! :shock:

Cheers! Trev.
 

Aragorn

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Hi Alf
You beat me to it!!
I was going to write a little review as well, but I was waiting for 48 hours to start "abusing" the finish.

I've applied 6 coats to walnut, and maple and 3 coats to cherry. The walnut is a stool, so that will get a fair bit of wear over time. The maple is a coffee table, and this will get the most abuse as we use it for everything and don't try to take any care with marking it.

I've applied some to scraps of maple and cherry which I will deliberately try and ruin to see how much this Patina stuff does what it says on the tin.
I finished all pieces down to 1200 grit sanding, and consequently the finish is as smooth as a mirror. I didn't resist the temptation to sand back a little in between coats which I think seems to have helped the finish.

I agree with most of your observations, although I liked the finish on the maple and cherry the most. It seems to be in between satin and gloss, getting more glossy with the final coats. I like this, as I find a gloss finish to be too shiny and normal satin finish to be too dull.

There is a plasticy quality which can be rubbed out a little with 1200 grit, and if it can withstand the testing I'm doing tomorrow, then I can live with that!

A
 

Alf

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trevtheturner":2uzr3gj4 said:
FWIW - when you get round to the alcohol test don't waste too much! :shock:
Valuable advice, Trev, valuable advice. Nothing like a spot of Meths on the rocks. :lol:

Aragorn, yeah, my finishing was quick 'n' dirty 'cos I just wanted to try the stuff. Lesson learnt - again. I wish now I'd sanded back between coats on half of each sample to see if it made any difference; never mind. Tests continue... :D

Cheers, Alf
 

Aragorn

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Preliminary testing complete!
This lot applies to 6 coats on scrap maple with 48 hours cure time:

Water - absolutely no problems
Alcohol - didn't want to waste too much, but seems fine
Hot cup of coffee, complete with spillage - wiped up fine, no ring mark
Very hot saucepan, straight off the hob, left for 5 minutes - no marking at all
Wax crayons - wiped off fine with some kitchen spray
Felt tip type marker pen - has left a very slight mark washed with water. I'll try a different solvent later.

So, hey - that's not too bad! The longevity test will, I'm afraid, take longer :D
On the whole, I'd have to recommend this productespecially where ease of application and time are a factor (just 4 hours between coats) and where a tougher finish is required.

Cheers
A
 

trevtheturner

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Hi Alf & Aragorn,

Interesting info - thanks.

At some time in the not too distant future (?) I have some boring work to do indoors and you may just have come up with the perfect answer for me. Our kitchen cabinets and cupboards have solid oak doors some years old. They are far too good to discard but some are now looking a bit tired and in need of a refurb. They have the manufacturer's original finish which I imagine is some sort of sprayed lacquer, supplemented with polish, wax and no doubt grease, most of which doesn't need stripping, just a good clean off to ensure they are properly de-greased, etc., should be sufficient.

Patina sounds as though it might be ideal, provided it can be applied over an existing finish. Screw-fix site only says it can be used for new and old wood. Anything more specific on the tin?

What do you think? Your opinions would be appreciated - but please type very slowly, 'cos I'm not in a great rush to undertake this job :roll: But if SWMBO knows that I'm at the planning stage that'll keep things ticking over for a while :twisted: :twisted:

Regards, Trev.
 

Aragorn

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Hi Trev
The tin isn't particularly useful. It doesn't give any instructions about preparing old wood, not even the usual "make sure the wood is free from dust, grease ..."
Perhaps test an area on the inside of the door to see how well it goes over a prepared area. Or contact the manufacturers?
Langlow
Speke Hall Industrial Estate
Speke
Liverpool
L24 4AB
0151 486 6101


Aragorn
(Rapidly in danger of becoming "Mr. Patina")
 
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