Partition Wall Garage

[brendan_bjg]

Hi,

I want to build a stud partition wall in our garage. We have only bought the house, and the garage has only finished being built around 2 months ago.

I want to partition the garage into office, and storage/garage area. I will be apply a DPM on the entire floor.

I have a few questions, and it would be great if I can get any help (zero experience with this sort of thing!):

1. The floor is polished concrete, it's been drying for about 2 months. Some items in the garage are still a bit damp to touch. Do I need to give it more time, or is it safe to start work since I will be putting down a full DPM?
2. I can only fix the sole plate and side studs, I cannot fix the top plate to the ceiling. Do I need to be concerned about piercing the DPC in the external facing garage walls? Do I need to run DPM between the timber vertical studs, and the external facing wall?
3. I plan to fill the holes created by fixing the sole plate, just to ensure no damp comes up through them. I don't think I will screw down far enough into the concrete to breach the DPM under the concrete floor, but just want to be 100%.

I can't fix the wall to the ceiling because it's going to run under the garage door. The wall will be just shy of 6ft, so I think fixed sole and vertical studs would be strong enough..

Thanks for all your help, some photos attached.

Brendan.

 

[Myfordman]

If you use a waterbased liquid dpm then it will be tolerant of any remaining moisture in the concrete floor.

 

[Jameshow]

Don't over think it.
A stud wall and 3 sheets of plaster board will sort. I'd anchor it just to the sides - saves damaging the concrete floor. You could glue it down with some ebt sealant.

Putting it forward of the door dosen't give you much room for outdoor stuff. Is the door completely draft proof?

Cheers James

 

[brendan_bjg]

Don't over think it.
A stud wall and 3 sheets of plaster board will sort. I'd anchor it just to the sides - saves damaging the concrete floor. You could glue it down with some ebt sealant.

Putting it forward of the door dosen't give you much room for outdoor stuff. Is the door completely draft proof?

Cheers James

Thanks for the reply, James. Yeah, the door is sealed all the way round when shut.

It's not a lot of space, but the office needs to be as big as possible. It's for work, and it brings in the money lol storage space has to give way to that .

If I'm running a DPM in between the concrete floor, and the sole plate, how can I glue it down to the concrete? Or just run the dpm up the studs? Thanks again!

 

[brendan_bjg]

If you use a waterbased liquid dpm then it will be tolerant of any remaining moisture in the concrete floor.

Thanks a lot.

Apply it to the timber studs you mean, or the concrete floor? Don't want to apply anything to the concrete floor that will permanently stain it.

 

[Sachakins]

Could you fit a roller shutter door, then you could fit full wall. Make your office safer, quieter and not prone to sudden coldness when garage door opens.

 

[brendan_bjg]

Could you fit a roller shutter door, then you could fit full wall. Make your office safer, quieter and not prone to sudden coldness when garage door opens.

The door is brand new. It's a fully insulated and sealed door. Don't really want to change it. I didn't pick the door, it was the previous owner, but it's an excellent door. It would be a sin to change it.

 

[eribaMotters]

Rule of thumb to be safe on floor drying out is about a month per inch thickness.

Colin

 

[MARK.B.]

Not sure if i have read your post correctly but if the garage is new build it should have a DPM installed, if so why the need to put down another ?

 

[robgul]

My initial thought was to build the wall at the back edge of the door track - but I take your point on maximising space.

I would consider making a "box" on the back of your new wall at the top so that the overlapping part of the door track is enclosed.

Several reasons: draughts (even a "sealed" door isn't perfect); looks better in your office area without a gap; dust & muck would float from the front section to the back through an open void; wasting heat that will go from your office into the storage area at the front. Pretty simple to do - just fix a rail to the ceiling and build off that with studs and horizontals to meet your wall.

 

[brendan_bjg]

Not sure if i have read your post correctly but if the garage is new build it should have a DPM installed, if so why the need to put down another ?

Thanks Mark. I figured the dpm is at least 100mm below surface, and there would still be a chance of moisture escaping from the concrete, and causing issues above surface.

 

[MARK.B.]

If the original DPM has been done properly then you should be fine. Your floor will take some time to fully cure so there will be a small amount of moisture still present but this is or should be getting less and less as time goes by. The small amount present should not affect your stud wall in any way .Also imho there is no need to put DPM between your vertical studs and the side walls they should be nice and dry . Try to avoid damaging your floor if you can as it will be a pita to match in any repair if you change your mind and remove the wall at a later date.

 

[brendan_bjg]

If the original DPM has been done properly then you should be fine. Your floor will take some time to fully cure so there will be a small amount of moisture still present but this is or should be getting less and less as time goes by. The small amount present should not affect your stud wall in any way .Also imho there is no need to put DPM between your vertical studs and the side walls they should be nice and dry . Try to avoid damaging your floor if you can as it will be a pita to match in any repair if you change your mind and remove the wall at a later date.

Thanks a million, Mark; great help!

 

[Jester129]

That's a posh garage, all plastered! When you've done the partition and fully enclosed the back part of the garage, get a dehumidifier in there for a few days, that will dry out the floor. Sorted!

 

[Robbo60]

Got all your answers there! I wouldn't be worried about putting a few screws in floor stud to secure it, (not too long). I think Robgul idea of the "Box" to house the top of the door would really finish the job off, especially if you are going to be spending a lot of time in the office. Would pay for itself in heating savings. Are you going to have independent lights/switches in each side? (couldn't tell from photos)
Are you putting a door from office to the storage area to save having to go outside every time?
Finally I would put skirting boards on the office to make it look like part of the house, not the garage.
Now I've written all that my thought is - buy a shed for the big stuff ( lawn mowers etc), put a stud wall up for storage at back of garage, take of the garage door and build frontage to match house and have office at front. I wouldn't fancy spending hours in a room with no windows.

 

[brendan_bjg]

Got all your answers there! I wouldn't be worried about putting a few screws in floor stud to secure it, (not too long). I think Robgul idea of the "Box" to house the top of the door would really finish the job off, especially if you are going to be spending a lot of time in the office. Would pay for itself in heating savings. Are you going to have independent lights/switches in each side? (couldn't tell from photos)
Are you putting a door from office to the storage area to save having to go outside every time?
Finally I would put skirting boards on the office to make it look like part of the house, not the garage.
Now I've written all that my thought is - buy a shed for the big stuff ( lawn mowers etc), put a stud wall up for storage at back of garage, take of the garage door and build frontage to match house and have office at front. I wouldn't fancy spending hours in a room with no windows.

Thanks a lot for great advice.

My concern with boxing off the door is it might make it awkward if it needs work or serviced in some way. The motor is also there, which would be boxed off too then.

There are independent light switches, and plenty of sockets round the walls.

Definitely putting skirting down, want it to look as "homely" as possible.

No door from office to storage, don't think I'll need access between the 2.

There is a window and door in the office portion of the garage. The garage door itself cost a lot of money lol, it looks well. Photos of window and garage door attached now.

My main concern is damp to be honest. There is a DPM below the concrete, but would there be any problem putting one on the surface for belts and braces? I was considering LVP flooring, or wood if you think it would survive. Any input here would be great.

 

[brendan_bjg]

 

[Robbo60]

That looks far more inviting than I first thought and the door has a lock! This might sound a bit lame but put a bird table outside you window. Very therapeutic when having your coffee break to watch them. Have you got your desk yet as plenty of inspiration on this forum to build one. Good luck

 

[timothyedoran]

I would definitely box the gap around the big door. Sitting still in an office is a chilly business and drafts are not fun. How often do you anticipate having to service the door motor. If it's once a decade I would box in and then rip the plasterboard out when necessary.

I'm no plasterer but have had great results with tape and fill plasterboard. Dead easy to do.

 

[brendan_bjg]

That looks far more inviting than I first thought and the door has a lock! This might sound a bit lame but put a bird table outside you window. Very therapeutic when having your coffee break to watch them. Have you got your desk yet as plenty of inspiration on this forum to build one. Good luck

Haven't set my mind on a desk just yet; open to suggestions if you've any links to them on here . Bird table sounds great, might even look into making one!