Paint brushes

[marcros]

I am aware of the general guidance to not use cheap and nasty paint brushes for anything other than painting the fence, but am not sure where to start. Synthetic, natural etc etc.

Any recommendations for decent brushes for waterbased paints and for oil based paints- can be 2 sets if necessary.

 

[Glynne]

I really like the Harris synthetic brushes which I get from Costco.
I'm not sure whether they would be classified as cheap but they certainly aren't expensive.

 

[marcros]

oh, I have a trade card for there. I will have a look for them next time I am in.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Hamilton's or Purdy's - the synthetic fibre ones. They are gold coloured.

 

[deserter]

As above Hamiltons it Purdys.

The only thing to add is your choice depends on what the finish is based on.

Oil based products, use a natural hair brush.

Water based, use z synthetic brush.



~Nil carborundum illegitemi~

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I have a pal in the trade (he runs a paint merchants) and he has always recommended hamiltons

 

[marcros]

i bought a couple of the harris synthetic ones at lunchtime, to give them a try- they were £3.43 from the range for a pack of 3 (1", 1 1/2" and 2"), and I have a little job to do tonight. I am going to have a proper look around though, and get a decent set (and look after them properly).

 

[marcros]

Next question...

After spending a little of my hard earned on some reasonable brushes (probably some Purdy's), what should I be doing to store them. I dont think that I will be using them on a weekly basis, but I think that they need storing properly for when I do need them. I presume because of irregular use, they need cleaning as per the manufacturers recommendations, and then probably storing dry, with the ends protected somehow?

 

[Jacob]

I've been using round sash brushes like these. Hamilton, Purdy, also make them.
They are brilliant for cutting in and the big ones are good for flat areas.
Using linseed oil paint you don't need to clean them you leave them suspended in oil (airtight ish) and when you next use them you just carry on and use the same oil as a primer. I've just been using one that's been in oil for two years - and using the oil itself. It's a brilliant system, no waste, no cleaners, no solvents etc.
If you need a sash brush in a hurry you can shave a good quality 1 1/2" with a razor, beard trimmer or whatever you have, into a neat rounded point.

 

[marcros]

I ordered a sample tin of the linseed oil paint on your recommendation Jacob. Unfortunately it has taken an age to arrive so had to use something else on this project.

 

[Leif]

A used Purdy to do my house, and they are very good. They are pricey but boxed sets are good value. I found that cheaper brushes shed hairs, even Wickes posh ones and they are not cheap. I'm sure Hamilton are good too.

For storing brushes that have been used with oil based paint, get yourself a Brush Mate, they are brilliant. Brushes keep for months unwashed. You might be able to wrap a brush in cling film for storage overnight. I do that with rollers and emulsion paint, works a treat.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

brushes are actually a doddle to maintain if done properly...most people just don't do it right but here's my tips:

Short term (ie overnight or close)

Put brush into a small ziplock bag or other tight fitting polythene bag that you can guarantee will remain airtight. The paint will remain remarkably wet and therefore you can just pickup where you left off. I kid you not Ive left bruhes (accidentally) this way for months and found them totally pliable on discovering them.

Long term (ie cleaning)

Clean is a decent qty of the appropriate solvent ie water for emulsion/white spirit etc for oil based until the bristles are coming up clean. If there's paint jammed at the base....use a paint comb to tease it out or it will stiffen the brush. Once all the solvent is off and this is the really good tip that no one does......wash the bristles in quite hot water with regular kitchen squeezy and then dry off with fresh paper towel after shaking droplets out.

This last step brilliantly conditions the bristles and frankly, brings them back better than new in my experience. Really pliable and great for cutting in. Takes time but doesn't cost you £4 every time you cant be a.r.s.e.d to deal with your brushes.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Wrap your brushes in cling film overnight, or drop a brush full of oil based paint in water overnight. If your natural bristle ones are spreading, put a couple of elastic bands around them til they dry.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

cling film...great idea....even more air tight than the poly bag method

 

[rafezetter]

..

 

[Jacob]

... drop a brush full of oil based paint in water overnight. ....

Water for water based paint, oil for oil based paint. If you cross over you can get away with it for a few hours but they soon become inseparable and the brush difficult to use.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you put a brush full of water based paint in a jar of water, it'll save the brush - but when you use it again the paint will run everywhere. I've regularly kept brushes full of oil based paint in water for several weeks perfectly well, as long as the water doesn't drop below the bristles. I worked with a decorator who kept his oil based paint brushes permanently in water.

 

[Jacob]

Never works for me. Sooner or later they are forgotten, the water evaporates and the brushes are spoiled!
Haven't spoiled a brush yet in 5 years of linseed oil painting but have worn several out.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I must say I've not heard of that oil based kept "underwater" technique. I guess the principle that underpins it is the same as my bag method and the other posters cling film ie it starves the bristles of air which is what causes the curing process and therefore the damaged brushes.
For my own use, my need to access a particular oil based paint is too infrequent to fail to take them all the way to "clean and dry". But within the context of one long job (decorating over a bank hol etc) I'll try that method. I'll also mention it to my pal in the trade and see what he thinks.

 

[Harbo]

Cling film works well for most types of paint.
I used to use the water technique but I found that leaving them in water caused the steel in some handles to rust?
It's all down to keeping air out?

Rod