Osmo Top or Wax and elbow grease?

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JimJay

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I'm looking at a 2x1 metre oak block worktop for a kitchen island. My usual approach in the past has been to put a coat of worktop oil on both sides and then two or three applications of Ronseal wax (or local equivalent) and elbow grease on the top surface. I know that the wax isn't food safe but we don't eat off the darned worktop and we've survived decades of this H&S Nightmare with no ill effects so far (not to mention that our cats are no respecters of worktops). Maintenance has been a doddle and very quick.

I'm considering using Osmo Top Oil instead this time and I'd be interested in any thoughts people might care to share.
 
Yes, I assumed it would be - but I was wondering if it's actually any better than oil followed by old fashioned wax from a tin, or easier to apply/work in....
Downside of OSMO is that it is sloooooow to dry (7 days??). The Fiddes equivalent oil is just as good and dries in less than 12 hours ready to recoat
 
Osmo top oil is fast to dry, faster than osmo polyx or fiddles and I have found it much better wearing and more waterproof than either, I would highly recommend it. Leave time between coats or the second coat will cloud the first
 
Osmo good. Got it on a sycamore kitchen table top 5 years on still good. fast drying, 2 coats in 2 days no prob.
Wax not suitable for working surfaces
I don't know about "not suitable": the last one I did with wax still looks good over ten years later. It's had one light extra coat of wax rubbed in during that time and the odd 10- minute buff up - and it's in a rented property so doesn't exactly get any TLC....
 
Our standard is first osmo wax then a light cut back and at least 3 applications of polyx with a light cut back between applications. The polyx dries quickly, if you get one on first thing you can get another on before you leave at the end of the day. Very easy application.
IMG_20220527_100739.jpg
 
Plus one for Poly X. Start by rubbing in several thin coats hard, leave overnight and then apply a thicker coat more lightly and don’t wipe off excess completely. It’ll dry to provide a deep hardwearing finish. For more grain contrast and deeper colour I often start with a few coats of liberon fine finishing oil then finish with poly x.
 
I’ve been using Osmo polyx rapid for oak stair and it a great product,last one was coated two years ago and as new.
From my posting you might have seen I’m using it to finish six chair with a lot of intricate carvings.I still have to apply the second coat as Im waiting for the weather to be a less humid as it drys better…..great product.
 
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