Osb 3 & nail holding

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Ed209

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Birchington, Kent
I have assembled a log cabin and am at roofing stage I have used the supplied T&G for the interior roof as I wish to insulate with 100mm celotex, leave air gap then I was thinking OSB3 then nail on supplied shingles .
My questions are does Celotex have a tendacy to curl up? Someone told me it did and I need to baton the edges to prevent this.
Will 18mm OSB3 hold the clout nails for the shingles ok? Or would I be better off getting some more T&g (18mm)
In hindsight i should have used T&G supplied for its intended purpose as it does not have V which would have looked better internally
. While im on a roll was also considering further sound proofing/insulating log wall (45mm) and ceiling with soundbarrier plaster board direct on to logs, so as to reduce loss of internal space.
I wish to use cabin for guitar practise and believe me no one will want to be subjected to that



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I think some 'Celotex' type insulation has foil on one side and paper on t'other, which causes curl.

I've used the stuff with foil on both sides and never seen it go out of shape. I've even dug up some that was buried and it was still flat.

My garage wall is lined with it and it's never curled.
 
I have just built a log cabin workshop too. I also used the supplied T&G for the interior roof, then fixed 50x50 timber batters around the perimeter of the roof, and insulated it with 50mm celotex with foil on both sides. I then covered my roof with cedar shingles.

I found that the celotex stayed quite flat with no curling up problems.

I did not leave an air gap (what for?) and just fixed OSB3 over the top and screwed right through to the T&G.

Do bear in mind that log cabins move quiet a lot due to expansion and contraction, up to 50mm. So fixing plaster board to the inside may be a problem. Anything you fix to the inside, other than a shelf bracket that bridges two logs, must have an expansion slot.
 
Hi - Celotex and other PU foam boards are pretty dimensionally stable esp. 100mm thick ones - no problem there. OSB should hold nails just fine - you could always use ringshanks just to be sure. Cheers, W2S
 
I did a log cabin roof a few years ago. I put the T&G internally on the roof and then put ply backed insulation on top with the sheets of asphalt type shingles on the top (nailed and glued). It is in a very exposed position and nothing has come off yet. A Wendy house lost it roof twice, even after I had screwed it on very well after it came off the first time. I had to retrieve it from the adjacent field, it cleared the 8ft hedge without any problem.

Not sure if the thin ply backing the insulation would be any good for nailing wooden shingles though.
 
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