One for the plumbers please

[Lazurus]

I am putting a small Triton T30i over sink water heater into the new workshop build. Mains supply will be via a 25mm HDPE main, I want to use HEP 20 or similar plastic pipe for the inside runs, my question is can I put the 15mm plastic pipe into the standard compression and olive fitting on the water heater or will I have to use copper. A quick search on you tube says the plastic pipe IS compatable with compression fittings but I would rather hear from some one who has actually used this or similar.
Cheers

 

[owen]

I am putting a small Triton T30i over sink water heater into the new workshop build. Mains supply will be via a 25mm HDPE main, I want to use HEP 20 or similar plastic pipe for the inside runs, my question is can I put the 15mm plastic pipe into the standard compression and olive fitting on the water heater or will I have to use copper. A quick search on you tube says the plastic pipe IS compatable with compression fittings but I would rather hear from some one who has actually used this or similar.
Cheers

You can use 15mm hep into a compression fitting aslong as you use an insert. You can also put 15mm copper pipe straight into hep fittings.

 

[SamG340]

Yes with an insert but seems a bit dodgy really to me, personally I'd use a little bit of copper and then a push fit from there

 

[SamG340]

 

[SamG340]

Make sure you clamp the hep properly ! Don't want it getting pulled out and leaking

 

[Lorenzl]

I think you are supposed to use a certain length of copper out from the boiler before you go into plastic.

 

[MARK.B.]

copper to plastic as samg340 say's is the way i did mine around ten years ago and never had a problem , i plan to upgrade to a larger heater in the near future and will do the same again

 

[Jones]

You can use plastic into a compression fitting with the insert but if the fitting is short there's not much engagement with the speedfit type as the sleeve is quite long,the olive can end up right on the end of the pipe. I have the same water heater, I used chromed copper to below worktop then pushfit into plastic. With chrome you need to sand off the chrome in the pushfit so it can grip.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I think you are supposed to use a certain length of copper out from the boiler before you go into plastic.

It's an inlet not an outlet.

 

[chris.s]

I wouldn't bother with any type of instant hot water hand washer they are made to satisfy hygiene standards which in winter they often fail as to get to required temperature you are turning the flow down to a point that they swith off and as for the spray nozzles in a hard water area they don't take long to block, a small mains pressure under sink unit will give a more reliable supply for hand washing and enough to half fill a bucket for other uses ( but set pressure on expansion tank after installation I lost count of how many I've found not set )

 

[Doug B]

I installed a Triton hand wash in the workshop nearly 2 years ago during the first covid lockdown, my only regret is I didn’t do it years ago. It is only a hand wash so don’t expect gallons piping hot water but for washing out brushes etc & of course hand washing it’s spot on.

If using plastic pipe in compression fittings I prefer to use a stainless steel insert
https://www.toolstation.com/hep2o-s...ZDq5M_BZ3JLzg6SzZbRoCbOkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.dsI also wrap a few turns of ptfe tape around the olive before assembly, I’ve been doing this for the last 20 years & never had a problem.

 

[andy48]

1. As you know, you have to put a pipe insert into any plastic pipe at a connection.
2. If you use Hep2O pipe, their standard inserts are fine.
3. If you use JG Speedfit pipe, they do two types of insert, "Superseal" (with added O rings like post #4 above) and plain. With compression fittings, the superseal don't give enough depth of insertion and the plain inserts should be used.
4. It is considered better to use copper olives, rather than brass ones, on the plastic end of a compression joint. It compresses better onto the softer plastic.
5. Do check the manufacturers instructions.
6. Note that there is a filter fitted inside the pipe at the final connection. I doubt this will fit a plastic pipe with an insert in it, although a Hep2O insert is more likely to suit. The supplied olive looks like a brass one.
7. There is a requirement to fit an isolation valve before the inlet. I would:
7a. Fit a decent full bore isolation valve like a Pegler (e.g. Screwfix 11085) with a short length of 15 mm copper pipe from valve to T30i inlet.
7b. Connect the plastic pipe into the isolation valve as described above.

 

[Scruples]

I wouldn't bother with any type of instant hot water hand washer they are made to satisfy hygiene standards which in winter they often fail as to get to required temperature you are turning the flow down to a point that they swith off and as for the spray nozzles in a hard water area they don't take long to block, a small mains pressure under sink unit will give a more reliable supply for hand washing and enough to half fill a bucket for other uses ( but set pressure on expansion tank after installation I lost count of how many I've found not set )

Washing hands in cold water, with soap, is hygienic. I'm unaware of any standards for the temperature of water for handwashing.

 

[Spectric]

Normally from a heat source the first run is copper, also yes " It is considered better to use copper olives, " rather than brass. Personaly I am old school and have both a pipe bender and the skills to fit copper so I only use plastic pushfit as a temporary job to maintain supply. The pegler Tectite fittings are ok on copper, easy to use and not as bulky as plastic pushfit and give a better looking job.

 

[Spectric]

People must be softer these days, I have worked in places where the hand washing facility was just an outside cold tap with a tin of swarfega handy! Are you really going to get dirty hands in a woodworking environment .

 

[Lazurus]

I wouldn't bother with any type of instant hot water hand washer they are made to satisfy hygiene standards which in winter they often fail as to get to required temperature you are turning the flow down to a point that they swith off and as for the spray nozzles in a hard water area they don't take long to block, a small mains pressure under sink unit will give a more reliable supply for hand washing and enough to half fill a bucket for other uses ( but set pressure on expansion tank after installation I lost count of how many I've found not set )

Hadn`t the room for anything else, I will see how it goes.

 

[chris.s]

Washing hands in cold water, with soap, is hygienic. I'm unaware of any standards for the temperature of water for handwashing.

there is for commercial premises it's for control of legionnaires infection can't quote you all the regs now as they went in the recycling when I retired

 

[Phil Pascoe]

That's for the standing water in the system though, isn't it? Not the actual washing.

 

[chris.s]

That's for the standing water in the system though, isn't it? Not the actual washing.

don't know which premises are covered by which regs but there were also anti-scalding checks we had to carry out in care homes and nurseries to check the mixing valves were working and the cold water had to be under 20c within 60 sec. We also contracted to Sainsbury and they followed a similar testing schedule.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

That's to make sure the water isn't too hot rather than specifying a minimum temp. for hand washing, though. Sorry, I'm not trying to be obtuse.
I know when I was in hospital I couldn't get a hot shower for love nor money because of the thermostatic controls, but I've not read of any regulation that says you must wash your hands in hot/warm water. There probably is a regulation for food handling premises that specifies hot water should be available, though.