Old Disston Back Saw

[digitalbot]

Hi all.

Got this back saw from a car boot a week or two ago and i'm looking to breathe some new life into it.
As you can see from the full picture there is a taper from the back by the handle to the front. On removing the handle i've found the blade doesn't fully enter into the spine. As you can see from the other photo, it's only in by about 5mm or so. Is this how they were made or has it been done by a previous owner for some reason? There isn't any signs of re-drilling and the blade looks original. There is a faint disston stamp under all the tarnish.
Should I just clean it up and put it back together as was or would cutting the blade, spine and then re-drilling it so it can be fully embedded in the spine be the way to go?
I will obviously need to get it sharpened when it's all done so does anyone care to recommend a good sharpening service somewhere in beds, herts or bucks? Failing that, I will mail/courier it further afield if I have to.

thanks.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

There seems to be some debate amongst saw geeks as to whether sloping backs were intentional on the part of the maker, or a side-effect of general use and maintenance. Sometimes, on older saws, it definitely was 'as made', but on later saws the jury is out. Various arguments are put forward as to why this feature is desirable, some of them a bit thin (it brings the centre of gravity of the saw nearer the user, for example). The feature has even been christened 'cant' by one of Gramercy Tools' sawmakers.

What to do about it? If the blade is straight, I'd be tempted to leave as is, on the basis that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Just clean it up, sharpen and use. A bit of wire wool lubricated with white spirit will take off the surface rust, or a Brillo pad used with a splash of water. The blade can then be dried, and a nice smoothness imparted by polishing with a bit of aluminium baking foil and Autosol metal polish (trick courtesy of AndyT - it works well, too). The handle can be refinished to your taste; I like a Danish oil finish, but some prefer a French polish or lacquer.

Edit to add - this link http://www.disstonianinstitute.com/backsawpage.html might give a bit of a clue about dating, and whether or not the 'cant' was intentional.

 

[undergroundhunter]

I would say that if the brass back seats well in the handle mortice then it has been designed that way, if however there is a gap between the base of the brass/steel back and the bottom of the handle mortice then the back has moved. I have an old tyzack that is "canted" by 1/4" over the 14" of the saw plate, personally I don't find it causes issues nor does it make sawing easier. If the back has moved then its up to you what you do with it, I would tend to agree with the above post and "if it aint broke done fix it" but its your saw.

Just for the record I'm no saw expert.

Matt