loftyhermes
Established Member
I cut them with tin snips, I cut up a fine tooth 1/4" blade to make a dog grooming rake for getting rid of the loose hair.
Old Bandsaw Blade Uses.
- Thread starter DamoF
- Start date
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dannyr
Established Member
if You have one, an angle grinder, or notch with the edge of a grinder wheel and then snap off in a vice. Then, if you do have a powered grinder, you can shape the ends etc. Wear protective gear.
If you're completely manual, notch with a diamond file or coarse plate, snap in vice and again, shape with the plate.
You may find a regular file works ok if blade not too hard.
When drilling or the above, if the blade overheats it may soften, but also could harden, so become harder as you work - depends how hot it got and how quickly it cooled. For holes, I managed with hss or carbide drills, but spoiled some and a chance find screw hole punch was much better.
Sean Hellman
Established Member
Even blunt blades work well in frame saws. I use 4 inch wide blades to make double handled push knives to make the birds in my avatar, probably over a hundred or so now.
Jasper42
Established Member
Cheers. Noted.
finish_that
Established Member
an angle grinder to cut the blade , which will need to be held in a vice to tame the long end
Too coarse
Marcusthehat
Established Member
just too late with my grinder suggestion
a very coarse pad saw for cutting insulation
sure I read somewhere that this was the origin of the terms top dog and under dog. Under dog being the one who has sawdust falling on their head !
An angle grinder is what I was going to use.
Can't believe the superb variety of suggestions, top class folks!
AES
Established Member
In my case I just bent it backwards and forwards between 2 pairs of pliers. I hasten to add that it was the blade that came with the original band saw buy, and NOT the Tuffsaws blades I have now!
But an angle grinder would also work of course.
John Brown
Freeloading Social media influenza
I think I'd try an angle grinder first, although I expect a hacksaw would work.
The spring steel is good for shaw guards. No one seems to sell these, but any spindle HSE drawing always shows them. Work well with router table too. The spring steel can be drilled when locally softened. This is best done in a drill press by attempting to drill where required with a suitably sized nail. This will make a red hot drill sized spot, which will soften on cooling.
xy mosian
Established Member
By gum that's clever. Thanks.
geoff
dannyr
Established Member
I have just been rehandling a hand saw, and while my special punch (originally designed for ???) works fine, the holes I needed are too far from the edge - I understand and tried the nail trick but can't seem to get it to work - I can drill with an arrow point carbide (careful, go very slowly) but couldn't find mine so tried a 'cobalt' drill, not much help, back to a cheapo hss bit, which broke. Being a cheapskate, I keep a little box of broken bits, to regrind, one day that never comes. In frustration I tried the broken off bit -- bingo - it worked, as did another. They're stiffer, being short, and the rough edge seems to bite fairly quickly, just make sure no part of the broken end is sticking out too much. I do use a pointed punch hit quite hard to mark the place and give a small dent. This is def not a technique for accurately sized holes, but my saw is now well re handled with 5 brass screws/sawnuts. Started at about half diameter bit and then on to full, the rough edge of the hole actually helps to grip the wood - it was pretty firm without any screws.
xy mosian
Established Member
It is very easy to forget just how thin, and flexible, the web in the middle of a twist drill is. Especially on drills of 6mm or less. I must remember to save broken bits, although the day they get reground is likely to be the day after yours. Hey, hey.
geoff
