Oiling Oak legs

[skeetstar]

Folks I am making an occasional table in Oak, for an anniversary present. I have done these sort of things before and I like BLO as a finish - quick, easy and easily renewed. The pieces I have made before have been placed on timber or laminate flooring, the new one however in going on to carpet. Question, once dried I take it there is no danger of the oil draining out of the leg and staining the carpet? I would think that once dried there is no danger of that, but just asking to be sure.

Thanks

 

[Racers]

Danish oil is my go to finish for oak, it dried quicker then BLO so probably safer in this situation.

Pete

 

[flh801978]

osmo polyx satin is my go to finish for oak
no chance of any staining with that and easy to touch up if it gets scratched

Ian

 

[ED65]

To answer the question, no you don't have to worry about the oil staining the carpet because once 'dry' it's not a liquid any more (and is bound up in the surface wood cells as well).

Not to teach egg sucking but final step in oiling is to wipe away all excess. This is one of those times when the wording of the instructions should be taken perfectly literally: the surface should be bone dry when you're done. You could almost get away with putting it on carpet immediately

 

[deema]

I would never use BLO for inside, it retains its smell for ever IMO liquid or dried.

Depending on the finish your after I would use Tung oil, Danish oil, Lemon oil (usually used inside draws, has a lovely lemon smell and is a Matt finish) or, my choice would be OSMO.

 

[custard]

Maybe it won't rub off, maybe it will. No one here will indemnify you against the risk, so why take it?

Leave the legs long, finish the piece, scribe for final height and level, cut the legs, work small chamfer around end of legs.

Chamfer is lost in the carpet, furniture maker sleeps well knowing he's not going to get bill for replacement carpet, everyone's happy.

 

[ED65]

I would never use BLO for inside...

But that's what it's for :? As for the smell remaining forever, I only wish this were true. It would be a major plus point for anyone who loves the smell if their furniture perpetually smelled of linseed oil.

BTW lemon oil is a commercial furniture polishing concoction, not a finish.

 

[skeetstar]

Thanks Folks.

The only reason I asked is that at the back of my mind I thought I remembered someone on here saying that wooden planes got lighted with age, and re oiling them replaced some of the weight _ I wondered what happened to the oil that they would have been treated with originally.

I've never noticed the smell of linseed oil after oiling, and yep I wipe off the excess, and I usually wait a few days before using or installing the furniture.

However I may try Danish oil for a change, I assume that is just wipe on like BLO?

Custard, thanks for using the title 'furniture maker' in reference to me, I don't really deserve it, most of the things I make are very simple, and mostly square and straight. However I do plan to try some new things (for me) on this table.

Thanks fellas.

 

[deema]

I occasionally use Chestnut Lemon oil, this is what the manufacturer states
A very low build near matt finish based on lemongrass oil which imparts a subtle lemon aroma to your project. Providing a clean fresh smell it is particularly suitable for the inside of boxes and drawers. This oil is also an excellent finish for turned work and interior timber projects that require a natural look. Further enhancement of the finish can be achieved with a good furniture wax such as Wood Wax 22. Apply with brush or cloth. Coverage: 1litre to 6 - 8m². Drying: approximately 2 - 24 hours.

I find its OK but easily damaged unless waxed.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

I would never use BLO for inside...

But that's what it's for :?

I suspect he means when the oil is used in small enclosed spaces such as cabinets sealed with doors, or a chest or nest of drawers: used in that situation it really does have an unpleasant smell which can linger for many months, even years. I've had to fix such a finish applied by other woodworkers (and one applied by me early in my career [lesson quickly learned!]) a few times, and shellac worked pretty well to seal the wood and trap the odour. Slainte.

 

[ED65]

The only reason I asked is that at the back of my mind I thought I remembered someone on here saying that wooden planes got lighted with age, and re oiling them replaced some of the weight _ I wondered what happened to the oil that they would have been treated with originally.

That was with raw linseed oil mainly, and it was sometimes applied extremely heavily. Some people soaked the entire plane in oil for several days, others stopped up the mouth and filled the escapement with linseed until oil started seeping out on both ends! So safe to say a very different proposition to oiling furniture with BLO.

I occasionally use Chestnut Lemon oil...

Gah, sorry I presumed you meant one of those godawful furniture polishes. I hate vague and undescriptive product names... teak oil anyone?

 

[deema]

I like teak oil, but it doesn't seem to go well with oak and can turn it black. Equally buying off anyone other than a very reputable supplier can lead to 'copy' teak oil that's a nightmare. Been there, had the experience, and you can't successfully sand it out you need to remake the piece!

I stick to buying from either Axi or direct from Liberon to avoid such character building experiences.

 

[Beau]

I would not use linseed. IME it takes an age to properly dry, sometimes months. Liberon finishing is my go to oil. It's much like Danish but seems to offer a bit more protection and easier to get off your hands.