Oil and wax for hand tools?

[sploo]

I've seen a few references to using "oil and wax" on the wooden parts of hand tools - notably someone talking about removing the shiny varnish from the handles on a Veritas router plane as he preferred the feel of the oil and wax combination.

What I don't know is - what type of oil and wax? I have a variety of oils and waxes, but I suspect that 3-in-1 followed by Liberon lubricating wax isn't what he meant :wink:

The reason for asking is that I scored an old Stanley No 4 1/2 from FleaBay and I'd like to do something with the handles to make them look nice, but also practical for use.

 

[NazNomad]

Assuming (probably incorrectly) a mineral oil & beeswax formula, akin to this http://www.woodworkersguide.com/2010/01 ... for-cheap/

 

[marcros]

i would suggest something simple like boiled linseed oil, and then a coat of microcrystalline wax.

 

[D_W]

Linseed oil (or tung oil) and paste wax. You can either mix the two or make some concoction with oil, wax and a solvent or you can just oil (let dry) then wax.

I've always oiled planes several times and then waxed them before the oil is dry (it takes less effort and discipline than waiting for the oil to dry). I oil until the wood has no more dry spots, wax, then oil and wax again. After a few days, the oil and wax are dry and it's no big deal if you use the plane before they are.

The only compromise is that you will not have everclean handles if you use wax and oil. Maybe not much of an issue if you're using rosewood handles, but the handles in my made planes have become pretty gross looking.

If you like a more sticky less dry feel, use beeswax instead of paste wax.

 

[sploo]

Interesting & thanks for the replies.

Assuming (probably incorrectly) a mineral oil & beeswax formula, akin to this http://www.woodworkersguide.com/2010/01 ... for-cheap/

I have mineral oil (used for chopping boards) and beeswax, and indeed a mix of warmed mineral oil and beeswax just as above that I made as a safe coating for children's toys. They don't dry that well though.

I have a tin of furniture wax that I've used in the past on top of shellac (for furniture and jewellery boxes). As that seems to dry well (and feels nice to the touch) could I use that wax on top of mineral oil? I don't currently own any linseed or tung oil (and have never used either).

 

[AndyT]

One of the advantages of boiled linseed oil is that it's cheap - currently £3.50 for 500ml in my local hardware shop. It lasts indefinitely and is economical in use. Hardly a big investment in the average tool kit.

 

[John15]

After sanding I've done the handles on a couple of my planes with two coats of Liberon Finishing Oil. It buffs up well and looks good. I haven't used any wax.

John

 

[ED65]

I've used blended oil and wax finishes for various tool handles and the occasional project. I'm a big fan of it for certain handles that need a lot of grip like files and awls, but it needs to be applied to bare wood to work right.

Wax on top of other finishes is obviously very common and many woodworkers who wax their tools to keep rust at bay will also apply it over the handles prior to buffing to a shine.

I don't think there's any good reason to apply mineral oil to a tool handle any more than there is to apply 3-in-One, which is also mineral oil.

I have mineral oil (used for chopping boards) and beeswax, and indeed a mix of warmed mineral oil and beeswax just as above that I made as a safe coating for children's toys. They don't dry that well though.

Hardly surprising as mineral oil doesn't dry and wax is softish to begin with. Oil and wax blends are famously soft and that's even where a drying oil is used (one that goes hard on its own).

I don't currently own any linseed or tung oil (and have never used either).

Highly recommend picking up some BLO. Very er 'handy' to have around!

 

[bugbear]

The reason for asking is that I scored an old Stanley No 4 1/2 from FleaBay and I'd like to do something with the handles to make them look nice, but also practical for use.

I would recommend some kind of oil-varnish mix, to bring out the grain, but also to provide a level of protection greater than wax.

Danish Oil (3-5 wiped on thin coats) is the obvious one, but I've had really good results with Liberon Finishing Oil.

I've used this on Ash, Hickory, Rosewood and Mahogany handles with good results.

I suppose a dozen or more wiped on coats of BLO would also work, or even raw linseed, if you've the patience of a saint!

BugBear

 

[AndyT]

Oh and let's not forget Tru-Oil. It's derived from linseed oil but dries quicker and goes harder. Nice and tough for handles - it's sold for use on gunstocks. Search the hand tools section for lots of enthusiastic mentions and pictures of shiny handles from Jimi who drew it to everyone's attention on here a few years ago.

 

[sploo]

One of the advantages of boiled linseed oil is that it's cheap - currently £3.50 for 500ml in my local hardware shop. It lasts indefinitely and is economical in use. Hardly a big investment in the average tool kit.

After sanding I've done the handles on a couple of my planes with two coats of Liberon Finishing Oil. It buffs up well and looks good. I haven't used any wax.

I would recommend some kind of oil-varnish mix, to bring out the grain, but also to provide a level of protection greater than wax.

Danish Oil (3-5 wiped on thin coats) is the obvious one, but I've had really good results with Liberon Finishing Oil.

I've used this on Ash, Hickory, Rosewood and Mahogany handles with good results.

I suppose a dozen or more wiped on coats of BLO would also work, or even raw linseed, if you've the patience of a saint!

Oh and let's not forget Tru-Oil. It's derived from linseed oil but dries quicker and goes harder. Nice and tough for handles - it's sold for use on gunstocks. Search the hand tools section for lots of enthusiastic mentions and pictures of shiny handles from Jimi who drew it to everyone's attention on here a few years ago.

It sounds like I have a large variety of options - though most of which I don't currently own :wink:

I've heard of linseed oil being used but never looked into why/on what you'd use it.

I've had good experiences with Liberon products so I'll look into the finishing oil too.

Danish oil I've obviously heard of, but again never used. Is the difference between it and linseed that the Danish would dry quicker (possibly due to the varnish component)?

I've heard of Tru-oil, but again never used. Lots to learn I think!

 

[Racers]

I use raw linseed oil on gardening tools axe handles etc.
I made an AWO cill for my patio doors and coated in raw linseed oil and its standing up very well to the weather (wife leaves the door open in the rain) and wear.

Pete

 

[sploo]

I use raw linseed oil on gardening tools axe handles etc.
I made an AWO cill for my patio doors and coated in raw linseed oil and its standing up very well to the weather (wife leaves the door open in the rain) and wear.

Pete

Funny you mention that positive, as I've been reading up a bit more on the various options, and linseed is the one that tends to get a lot of "it's OK, but..." type comments. Generally I see recommendations for mixing it with something else (e.g. a bit of varnish), but I guess that's kinda then Danish oil.

I see I can get Tru-Oil on amazon, and its primary application (gun stock finish) is arguably not dissimilar to plane handles (i.e. will be handled, will get sweat and acid etc from skin).

I was trying to work out the difference between Liberon's Finishing oil and their Danish oil. On calling them I got a not entirely convincing set of answers (mostly someone just reading off their spec sheet, as opposed to something with usage experience). After talking with someone else they came back and recommended Teak oil as the best for my application. So now I'm just confused!

The problem I have is that I don't have relevant bits of whatever timber will be used for the plane handle, so I can't experiment. I don't mind buying several products to learn, but obviously don't want to apply something then regret it.

 

[Racers]

I thought they where all much of a muchness, Teak oil BLO Danish etc.

The minimum for plane handles is paste wax, Renaissance wax is very good but any wax will do, the Wood Silk spray has loads of wax in a quick spray and buff works wonders.
Before Wood Silk.

30th August by Pete Maddex, on Flickr

After.

Marking gauges by Pete Maddex, on Flickr

Pete

 

[AndyT]

I see that you have identified the most frustrating problem about finishes in general - the names that manufacturers give their products are inconsistent and sometimes downright misleading! Afaik Danish oil is generally a mix of boiled linseed oil and varnish, but the proportions and type of varnish can vary maker by maker, so my experience of it may be quite different from yours.

I don't think there is any 'standard' definition of teak oil except 'something sold as suitable to put on teak furniture'.

A browse through the Finishing section will bear this out.

For many hobby woodworkers, it's easier to choose one finish for everything, rather than try to understand what all the products offered to us consist of and would be good for.

 

[sploo]

I thought they where all much of a muchness, Teak oil BLO Danish etc.

The minimum for plane handles is paste wax, Renaissance wax is very good but any wax will do, the Wood Silk spray has loads of wax in a quick spray and buff works wonders.

I see that you have identified the most frustrating problem about finishes in general - the names that manufacturers give their products are inconsistent and sometimes downright misleading! Afaik Danish oil is generally a mix of boiled linseed oil and varnish, but the proportions and type of varnish can vary maker by maker, so my experience of it may be quite different from yours.

Indeed - it's difficult to identify "what" is "what"!

BTW Why a wax for plane handles (not just oil) and why oil before wax? I understand shellac before wax is about sealing the wood. Is the use of oil for similar reasons?

 

[Racers]

Wax and oil are both finishes, the oil lasts longer them wax but the wax is a thinner coating so you are closer to the wood.

Pete

 

[D_W]

this is something that can easily be overanalyzed.

Strip the handle on a tool, put some oil and wax on it and let it dry (if it's a drying type) or not (if it's not) and see if you like it.

Aside from non drying or drying, it doesn't really matter too much.

My only side suggestion is if you absolutely have to have clean handles, put a light coat of shellac on after the oil dries and before the wax. It won't look as nice, but the handles won't get dirty.

 

[ED65]

Danish oil I've obviously heard of, but again never used. Is the difference between it and linseed that the Danish would dry quicker (possibly due to the varnish component)?

Yes that type of product will tend to dry faster and more reliably than BLO because of the varnish, but also because of the heavy dilution. It'll also build shine more quickly, again due to the varnish. Some people specifically don't want this which is why they'd be more in favour of just oil, as used on most early woodies.

If I need anything like this I like to make my own, partly so that I don't have to pay an exorbitant amount for what I know is a simple mixture but also I can make it less dilute than the commercial versions.

I don't mind buying several products to learn, but obviously don't want to apply something then regret it.

I doubt you'd have any cause for regret, worst comes to worst you can always go back to bare wood if you had to, I doubt you'd want to though. I'm not sure if anyone has said this in the thread. but linseed oil makes most woods look amazing and it's one of the reasons it's still around despite pure oil finishes being largely superseded by commercial varnishes. Many of my earliest projects got a few coats of BLO and then an application of paste wax later on, and I'd have no hesitation about recommending this as a finish for any sound hardwood.

If you went with linseed (raw or BLO) first and then decide you don't like how it looks there's no bar to applying varnish on top, or any oil and varnish blend, or wax.

 

[Vann]

IIRC there's a problem applying BLO to rosewood - in that it turns the rosewood so dark you loose the grain.

I apply a number of coats of BLO to most handles (except rosewood), then when the handle won't absorb much more BLO I give it a couple of days before applying "Black Bison" wax. For rosewood I go directly to the wax.

There are better finishes, but this works for me, 'though I'm not a heavy user of my tools.

Cheers, Vann.