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oak box and lid conundrum

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stoatyboy

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Hi all first the box:

needed somewhere to keep this as it's cardboard packaging was looking a bit shabby. I chose some reclaimed oak (strong) dovetails (strong) rebated base (strong) partly inset lid (strong) - I wanted it strong! it's living in the garage and looking after glass


cut to size with some spares to practice and set up


practiced some dovetails


nice bit of paring - I need the block to keep me level!


dry fit and showing the practice routing done for the base (forgot to photo the base sorry)


glue up


and cleaned up with lid resting on - quite pleased so far


but ive got a problem - despite many practice attempts fitting butt hinges like this they always go wonky - even with that excellent tutorial in BWW by Mr Lloyd some time ago. And the screws would poke through the lid as it's aonly 8mm thick


thought i might do a hinge with a brass rod in from the side (where the dot is top left in piccy) but would it be strong enough 8mm doesn't seem much to stick into?


feeling a bit stuck and just want to finish it so would welcome any ideas for a swift, simple and strong! lid fixing. I could make another lid if I need to but not another box!! - wish I'd though of this before i'd started!

any thoughts?

cheers - Pete
 

stoatyboy

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OOH they look nice - different and a bit showoffy. not sure i've got the skills (or the drill press) required to do them though

might have a fiddle tomorrow - sure i've got a mag with an article on how to somewhere...

thanks - keep em coming
 

monkeybiter

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Just a suggested option; in the past when my shortest screws have been too long for the wood thickness I have sometimes turned a screw into the hole just enough to start the thread, then grind the tip off a screw until short enough and use that screw for fixing.
Just a suggested option.
 

stoatyboy

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Ok so do you mean put some grooves in the side sticky up bits and make a new lid a bit wider with a matching sort of tenon to slide in from the front?

I have done sliding lids before but routed the required grooves before glueing

hmm
 

AndyT

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All interesting ideas, but I reckon you've answered your own question. For this size box, I reckon a pin through each end would be plenty strong enough, and quick and easy to do! Just make sure they are in line with each other.
 

devonwoody

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How about making a lid that drops into the box (think paint tin lid) it could have a taper and hold, it could have some threaded knobs that screw into the lid at each end, or me I most probably would just use an elastic band :wink: :)
 

Jacob

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You could just clap the hinges on from the outside. Hold the box and lid in a vice whilst you do it, with some bits of paper for spacers. Neater job would be to do the same but to house the hinges to the depth of the leaves and below the level of the top of the lid.
 

stoatyboy

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Oh no - too many ideas now! This forum is simply too fecund!

I like magnets but that doesn't solve the hinge

need a lie down in a dark room - I'll let you know how I get on

many cheers - Pete
 

stoatyboy

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back again! I'm sure you all lost a lot of sleep worrying about how this turned out so I thought I'd do an update

here it is finished - it's not a fushia box but i'm pleased with it!


And here it is open - ta da!


yes I bottled it and didn't use a hinge at all just those rare earth magnets - it's quite a snug fit so I'm happy with the secureness of it


so top tip - think about your hinges before you start building (DOH!) and thanks for the ideas - i'll try to use some of them next time.

Cheers - Pete
 

WoodMangler

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Sorry, I've only just spotted this...
stoatyboy":27k3s6sf said:
And the screws would poke through the lid as it's only 8mm thick
...
any thoughts?
I had the same problem with a softwood box I made not long ago, solved it with superglue - I used a 2-part glue called "Ever Build Stick2". The glue went on the face of the hinge - being a gel, it wasn't a problem keeping it out of the pivoting part of the hinge. The activator went on the wood. Pressed the two together and it set almost immediately. I only used glue for the lid half of the hinge, the other half was screwed into the back of the box as normal. It's lasted about 6 weeks so far, being opened and closed at least twice on most days. I'll try and attach a picture.
box2.jpg
 

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disco_monkey79

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Nice box, and nice to see another wine maker on the forum! Got anything brewing at the mo?
 

stoatyboy

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Thanks for the comments - never thought to glue the hinge, if it was rebated in it would give some extra support. Had I thought about it I would have put the rebate right round the edge of the lid like you showed but I didn't have enough depth of lid. It would help protect against sideways knocks displacing it.

as for the wine - well I'm a hobby cider maker - have I got anything on the go? yes 100 gallons currently - I don't drink it all I make it with a mate who gets half and we sell the odd barrel to cover costs

I've just made a new cider press from mainly reclaimed wood which is to be my next wip when I get round to it

cheers
 

disco_monkey79

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I'll second that. A cider press is on my list of projects.

100 gallons? My hat's off to you!
 

Wouldchuk

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Like it Pete - thanks for sharing the update. May I ask exactly which magnets you used and from where - do they feel like they provide a reasonable level of tightness? I need some for a box i am making to keep the lid closed to allow it to be picked up and moved around etc yet not be so strong that it takes a crowbar to open!

Thanks
 

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