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Oak and burr oak jewellery box

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Hornbeam

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Time to get in Mrs Horbeams good books so 2 sheets of burr oak, some oak offcuts and some rather expensive suede later.
The box is veneered 12mm birch ply. External dimension 300 X 200 X 150
The edgings are all fumed oak
The 3 trays are oak with fumed oak splines and bergundy suede lining
Lock from niche locks. Escuchion modified to inlay flush with the veneer. lid stay mechanism made from a hinge and bike gear cable
20191104_233826.jpg

20191104_233920.jpg

20191102_155635.jpg
 

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Trainee neophyte

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Hornbeam":18o6bujh said:
Time to get in Mrs Horbeams good books so 2 sheets of burr oak, some oak offcuts and some rather expensive suede later.
The box is veneered 12mm birch ply. External dimension 300 X 200 X 150
The edgings are all fumed oak
The 3 trays are oak with fumed oak splines and bergundy suede lining
Lock from niche locks. Escuchion modified to inlay flush with the veneer. lid stay mechanism made from a hinge and bike gear cable
View attachment 20191102
View attachment 20191102
View attachment 20191102
One day, I too will make something as good as this.

I hope.
 

Bm101

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Lovely Hornbeam. The burgundy is very classy. Funny enough I just bought some hinges from niche locks (first nice ones bought new) and was very impressed for the price relative to the really expensive ones out there. Be interested to see some more pics especially of the gear cable stay. Looking on the phone the pics are little unclear.
Thanks for sharing.
Chris
 

Hornbeam

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Hi Chris. The stay was made by cutting a hinge to produce 2 small brass plates to inset into the lid and base of the box. I then drilled a hole almost the full depth of teh side and epoxied in a brass tube. 2 small hole 1.5mm dia were drilled into the recessed brass plates. The gear cable was cut to a length an placed with the nipple trapped in the upper plate and the free end running through the plate in the base. I then used cable clamp from an electrical choc block to act as a stop on the free end. Th e cable is stiff enough so that it doesnt kink when the lid is closed, pushing the cable into the base. I will try and sort out a photo or 2 if it helps
Ian
 

Bm101

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If it's not too much trouble I would love to see pics Ian. Thankyou for the detailed explanation.
 

sunnybob

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Take better pics and post them here, we all like to see how things are made.
 

woodbloke66

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Nice job on the jewellery box. Just as a matter of interest and for future ref, standard suede leather isn't the best material to line a jewellery box with as it will tarnish metal. Some time ago I bumped into one of my ex-students who now works for Halstock and he showed me a console table having a drawer lined with Alcantara; a synthetic suede material that looks like leather, but one that won't tarnish jewellery - Rob
 

Hornbeam

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A couple of photos showing the lid stay and the hinge part way through being cut
20190525_172334.jpg

20191103_104933.jpg

I have also put a photo of teh box part way through construction showing the corner posts which are attached to the sides/ends with splines which ensure accuracy of alignment. You can also see on the posts how deep the fuming has penetrated and changed the oak colourI also part fitted the lock before gluing up as it is much easier to work on fitting when it is a flat panel. Supports for teh trays are also fitted int grooves in the ends/sides routed before assembly.
20190513_185047.jpg

Regarding sued e and alcantara, I spoke to a friend who is a leather craftsman. He felt using alcantara for this would cause other issues, specifically it is quite a bit thicker than suede and doesnt fold a neatly/tightly so would make lining a lot more difficult. Genuine alcantara is also about 3 to 4 times the cost of suede. Hopefully no future tarnishing issues.
Thanks Ian
 

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sunnybob

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Lovely detail, and I am very impressed. I have yet to make a worthwhile jewellery box.
But I am very old fashioned about slot head screws :roll:
They should all be inline with the plank they are in.
Try it, and see the difference. If you cant tighten any round to the correct position, turn them back to the previous quarter just to see how much more elegant they become. 8)
 

sunnybob

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I saw my first Philips screwdriver in a shop window, I had just left school. the beatles were not yet a household name. From that day to this I have felt that screw heads now always look untidy :roll: :roll:
 

Bm101

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Many thanks Hornbeam. Consider it stolen! :D

I believe the screwhead thing is called clocking Bob.
 

sunnybob

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Clocking has other connottations where I was brought up in south London.
"Cor, 'ave ya clocked that bird?
"'ere, 'oo you clocking?
kind of thing :lol: :lol:
 

Hornbeam

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Perhaps I have an engineer too long but I am not in favour of clocking of screws. In order to align the heads you either have to overtighten, potentially shearing the screw or partly stripping the thread in the wood. Slackening the screw to align the head means the screw isnt working effectively. I know different people have different views.
Regarding pozi or phillips screws, I only ever use them for joinery or totally unseen applications. I dont think brass pozi heads look right, but again just a personal view
Ian
 

sunnybob

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My dad taught me about "clocking" the screws in wood when I was a nipper, and its just stuck.
There are inherent risks in tightening a touch too much, but the extra care taken makes it look so much nicer.The partial loosening is not important as we're talking about hinges and such that have multiple screws to take a the strain, its even possible to put a brass shim underneath if strength is vitally important.
I have broken one screw doing this, and it was an enormous amount of work to remove it without destroying the wood, but I still strive for the inline look =D> 8)
 

Inspector

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Very nice box.

Sometimes when a screw slot doesn't line up all you need to do is to select another from the box and it might be better. They are not made with anything resembling the precision needed to form the slot and the start of the thread in the same place every time.

Pete
 

rafezetter

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Hornbeam":2y5o3w51 said:
Perhaps I have an engineer too long but I am not in favour of clocking of screws. In order to align the heads you either have to overtighten, potentially shearing the screw or partly stripping the thread in the wood. Slackening the screw to align the head means the screw isnt working effectively. I know different people have different views.
Regarding pozi or phillips screws, I only ever use them for joinery or totally unseen applications. I dont think brass pozi heads look right, but again just a personal view
Ian
PVA - PVA as a wood version of locktite, works a treat and for an application like the box stay, no pessure is being applied, it'll be fine.

If using it with brass - maybe dilute it a bit to reduce hold strength.

Lovely box though, what I can see of it :wink: :p
 
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