Norm in Hand Tool Shocker

[Benchwayze]

There is a bit of literature on the differences between polishing and grinding, in an old book, concerned with telescope making. (Amateur Telescope Making.. Vol 2)

It seems that with the finest of abrasives - (at the time the book was put together, jewellers' rouge was about the finest you could get) the effect on the surface being polished changed from grinding to a 'smoothing' action, almost as if the molecules were being pushed around and melded together, rather then being ground away.

I don't know how much truth there is in this, but it was thought to be the reason for getting a 'turned-edge' on a mirror, while polishing.

This turned edge could show on the back of a plane iron or chisel, if you don't keep the tool absolutely flat on the polishing surface, which also has to be dead flat.

If this all sound a little eccentric, I apologise. That's just me!

Cheers folks. Best of luck in shaving the hairs off your arms...
One day I might dare try shaving with a plane iron!

Yeahhh Okay!
- :lol:

John

 

[jimi43]

I don't go up to the finest on plane blades when I use MicroMesh....I stop at about 4000 to 8000 depending on the feel of the edge. I tried going up higher to polish the blade and it is just too much effort and the edge seemed to slightly diminish.

I can however shave the soft hairs on my arm easily.

Jim

 

[chingerspy]

Well I'm only on 1200 grit WnD and the blades cut softwoods easily. I'm about to step upto hardwoods and my thinking is that I will need a better edge for that.

I quite like sharpening/honing to be honest, weird but I tend to "zone out" while doing it. That's another reason I'm getting a foolproof jig at the very least

 

[jimi43]

It might help you if you are going over to MicroMesh to be aware of when to use it.

THIS TABLE will show you the relationship between standard paper grit and MicroMesh grades.

As it say...you get a much better finish if you convert to MM as early in the stage progression finishing as you can. This is why they sell it from 1500 as this is roughly the transition point depending on what standard papers you use.

The important key with this stuff when finishing wood or plastics is not to miss a step. It is tempting because you don't really see much progression but it is happening. All of a sudden it all becomes very shiny with no residual stratches.

Hope this helps

Jim

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi Nick,

I have never used a disc sander for end grain trimming. I could make one easily enough to fit my Coronet face-plate, and one or two old acquaintances used the genuine Coronet attachment with success. I doubt you could find one today, and in any case you would need the lathe/combo machine to use it!

In the 1960's I got myself a guillotine wood trimmer. (A Britton) (£8.50 and £5.00 for a spare pair of blades.) I still use it for squaring material 5" x 3/4" thick (Or even 3 x 2") The Tormek plane-blade jig holds the blades for sharpening no problem.

Add an accurate tablesaw attachment with a good cross-cut TCT blade and it's all served me well so far! I can joint straight from the saw, for bicuits, and when dovetailing, the resultant surface is fine for any necessary marking.

It's all down to setting up the machines well, and knowing you can rely on the blade to leave a good enough surface, depending on the job you are doing of course.

When I need the best surface on end-grain I go for a shooting-board.

HTH

John

regards
John

 

[NickUrquhart]

Thanks for the info John, it all helps add to the battle. I'm not really one for large power tools such as saws or routers, mostly due to neighbour considerations(thin Victorian walls) and also the possibility of heat burn, but saying that i'm not in a position to say that they do burn, because i've never used one. Most of the applications i have are for hand planes, so tearout and burn look terrible.

Re the Coronet, that sounds interesting. I would say that it seems reasonably easy to buy one of the velcro disc arbours from Ebay and fit it on a lathe. I think you're right, that a right angle jig table should be straightforward enough to make from scratch. I've got an Emco compact 5 metal lathe, which is excellent for various little jobs that we all need now and again, especially brass bits for plough planes and handle turning/drilling.

I think maybe i'm leaning towards making a shooting board as you prefer. I was concerned that a shooting board might tearout the trailing edge, especially on a moulding plane body. In the past, i finished plane end grain the old fashioned way(remove high spots) with a 1 1/2" Ward chisel, a square and some glass paper. I think it's time i moved into the 19th century, ha.

Thanks for the advice, very well appreciated. I'll try and knock up a chuting board this week and try it with either a mitre or maybe the Stanley 60 1/2 see how it goes.

all the best, Nick.

 

[Benchwayze]

Thanks for the info John, it all helps add to the battle.
Re the Coronet, that sounds interesting. I would say that it seems reasonably easy to buy one of the velcro disc arbours from Ebay and fit it on a lathe. I think you're right, that a right angle jig table should be straightforward enough to make from scratch. I've got an Emco compact 5 metal lathe, which is excellent for various little jobs that we all need now and again, especially brass bits for plough planes and handle turning/drilling.

Thanks for the advice, very well appreciated. I'll try and knock up a chuting board this week and try it with either a mitre or maybe the Stanley 60 1/2 see how it goes.

all the best, Nick.

Hi Nick,

You're welcome.
If you can use a metalworking lathe then you are quids-in.

I am not a metalworker, but I would fabricate a sanding plate from 10mm aluminium sheet and a mild-steel chucking piece about 1.5 inches in diameter. I won't presume to tell you how to secure the aluminium to the chucking-piece of course!

This should make a nice sanding plate, and the chucking piece would mean you can leave the abrasive disc in place when you remove the whole thing from the lathe. Maybe you could use the tool-saddle to hold the table and adjustable fence?

The Coronet Major swings 9" over the bed, but it has a swivelling headstock that allows bigger diameters. So if I recall correctly, their sanding attachment was a 10" model.

Regards
John