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Nick/chip in thicknesser blades - workarounds?

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Bodgers

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I have at least one chip in my Metabo thicknesser blades. I noticed it towards the end of my bench build a few months ago, where I was getting some raised stripes in work pieces, but just worked around it with some smoothing plane finishing.

Without spending £40 on a new set of blades is it possible to adjust the blades in their holders to 'dial out' the stripes? Anyone tried it?
 

Pete Maddex

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You can off set the blades by the width of the nick to solve the problem.
I haven't tried it myself.

Pete
 

sunnybob

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Turn the wood around and run it through again at the same setting.
 

ColeyS1

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Pete Maddex":framlkcc said:
You can off set the blades by the width of the nick to solve the problem.
I haven't tried it myself.

Pete
That's why I do. Just check first that the blade doesn't rub against anything!!!!


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Bodgers

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sunnybob":44ovx4ue said:
Turn the wood around and run it through again at the same setting.
Yeah I tried that. It sort of works if you slightly it right. It gets a bit tedious after a while though

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sunnybob

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what? more tedious than shifting the blades each time? :?:

Why not have a spare set of blades and swap them while the others are sharpened?
 

RobinBHM

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if they are only very small nicks can you hone the blades in situ with a diamond stone -I do that with both thicknesser and surface planer.
 

Bodgers

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sunnybob":muia0rqv said:
what? more tedious than shifting the blades each time? :?:

Why not have a spare set of blades and swap them while the others are sharpened?
It wouldn't be shifting the blades all the time. You would set them once and that would be it until they wore out.

The Metabo blades are expensive, just trying to extend the life before shelling out for my first replacement pair.

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Bodgers

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Bodgers":ghvkv81g said:
sunnybob":ghvkv81g said:
Turn the wood around and run it through again at the same setting.
Yeah I tried that. It sort of works if you set it right. It gets a bit tedious after a while though

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sunnybob

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I'm missing something here, I dont understand. Educate me.
Its a rotary knIfe yes? with a nick in one of them?

So as far as I can see moving the blade across till the nick doesnt cut the wood implies that the blade is very wide and the wood is narrow?
Is that whats happening?
I couldnt do that on my thicknesser. I have had a nicked blade that left a bead along the plank.
Turning the wood and running the plank through again cut off the bead.
 

Bodgers

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sunnybob":1gtitahx said:
I'm missing something here, I dont understand. Educate me.
Its a rotary knIfe yes? with a nick in one of them?

So as far as I can see moving the blade across till the nick doesnt cut the wood implies that the blade is very wide and the wood is narrow?
Is that whats happening?
I couldnt do that on my thicknesser. I have had a nicked blade that left a bead along the plank.
Turning the wood and running the plank through again cut off the bead.
Yes that's the suggestion. My Metabo might have a bit of wiggle room to move a blade to the side a bit.

Yes, like I say, you can do the replaning, it just gets tedious planing the same board twice. Particularly when you have 24 of the same part to do, which I have a the moment.
 

ColeyS1

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My planer has 3 blades. Moving one a smidgen gets rid of the lump.

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Hornbeam

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The planer block will have 2, 3 or 4 knives all with a small nick in the same place. By moving a knife a few mm sideways the slight raised line left by a nick in one blade is reved by the undamaged part of the next one
Ian
 

sunnybob

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Hah! Now thats simple enough for me to understand =D> =D> =D> =D>
 

marcros

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Is it disposable blades? On my Axminster they are locked/dowelled in place so you couldn't shift one along.

What about keeping a block plane handy and removing the strip with that? Depends a bit on how much you have to do.
 
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