New workshop build, with a difference!

[Dibs-h]

Dick

You really should double up the header over the doorway. Now if headroom is an issue - then you'll have to double it over the top. I would also double up the studs on the sides of the doorway.

On the RH window, the header appears doubled, but the RH stud appears single, whereas the LH one appears doubled.

WRT to the stud work in general - If you are lining with Ply\Osb - you will need to have 3 lots of noggins, effectively dividing the stud into 4 equally sized sections.

The Building Inspector wanted mine that way - so I said I'd consult my tame SE, who confirmed that for a timber load bearing wall, that's what he wants.

My timber inner stud is now load bearing by virtue of being fitted between the pole plate (aka wallplate) and the floor. So 3 rows of noggins!

HIH

Dibs

 

[Cegidfa]

Hi Dibs, and McLuma....and everyone else.

If you read back on page four, I said that the reason we hadn’t fitted the binder yet was because the timber arrived straight from the treatment tank, and needed to dry out. TRADA recommend not more that 20% MC when sealing in faces and cladding, as the excess moisture can’t escape. We have now duly fitted the binder and the reinforcing on the doorways; but as always, many thanks for the concern, it really is appreciated.

See below the temporary bracing holding the beast square. Although an A frame is obviously strong, to see the effect first hand is amazing.They are only 50 x 25 roofing laths.

Next the door reinforcing and the temporary roof brace.

And playtime, aka the roof truss template.

Dibs, the reason for the double stud at the window openings is because we made the front and back walls in three sections, and that’s where they join.

As to noggings. we will have to differ. Firstly TRADA say that they are not required for structural porpoises, only for facilitating plasterboard laid horizontally or for later fixings to the walls - as in kitchen cabinets, etc. I have read recently about tests carried out at The University of Southern Queensland Faculty of Engineering and Surveying where they were load testing with and without noggings for cyclone proofing. They found no difference in the racking or compression stiffness of the wall. This is the link to the pdf (maybe your SE would be interested).

http:/eprints.usq.edu.au5157/1Karaunasena_Leitch_ACMSM20_AV.pdf (I have no idea how to make this a live link)

Also, the ‘murricans’ never use them structurally, and they are far more experienced at timber frame than us Brits. I think some Building Inspectors could do with going on a TRADA course to bring them up to date with ‘Modern Methods of Construction’. On one shed build I read about, the BI didn’t even know what a Gambrel roof was and the householder had to take pictures in...he wouldn’t even look it up on the web.
The other source of info on this subject (American again) has been testing reduced stud usage which would probably raise the hairs on the neck of your SE; no cripples under the window or double studs at the window sides :shock: This is on non load bearing walls though. This is referred to as ‘Advanced Framing Techniques’.

It is now full steam ahead making the roof trusses, which is a tedious process, due to the number of individual parts required. For each truss (15 in total) there are 8 angle cuts at three different angles and in addition there are 6 ply gussets required. Suddenly a standard pitched roof is beginning to look more attractive :smile:

That’s it for now, nose to the chopsaw. The next photo will be of me face down in front of it, a gibbering wreck.

Regards...Dick.

 

[Bkn]

I really love those American barn style roofs. Can't wait to see this finished and it looks as though it's coming along really well

 

[Dibs-h]

Dick

Sorry must have missed the blinder bit. Looking good.

Interesting article - forwarded onto my SE and I'll be catching up later with him to see what he thinks.

I see what you are saying wrt TRADA - however for a non-standard construction, which is what mine is - BC want someone to sign that the construction will work and with that in mind SE's get what they want. Although having said that mine understands "cost effective" engineering\building.

If I read your post right - yes 1 row of noggins would be sufficient for catching the edge of plasterboard and acting as a fire break, which in an all timber house of 2 stories or more - should be there. But for a case where the walls are load bearing - it isn't quite so simple. Even from an empirical viewpoint, just building a stud wall, as the noggins start to get fitted, the rigidity of the wall increases and can be noticed.

At the end of the day - it depends on your individual case and if the build is subject to Building Regs.

Dibs

p.s. 1k screws just don't go as far as you think!

 

[Cegidfa]

Hello Thomas (Bkn),

Whilst there is nothing wrong with pitched roofs, The Gambrel does have a certain elegance about it. It obviously charmed me :smile:
As we will see this building every time we leave the house, or come up the drive (or visitors) it will present something interesting to look at; why be conventional?

Hi Dibs,

It never hurts to see what other countries do with their houses; I hate closed minded thinking, hence the CYA reference a while back. I guess that if planning and building regs are required, one has to conform, even if it is really unnecessary. It’s the problem of professional indemnity and putting ones name on the line I suppose.

That is the reason that we sized the workshop just under the 30m2 and no more than 4m tall. I was always the awkward sod when at work. My boss used to dread team briefs :wink:

As you might have guessed by now; I like woodwork, but love everything to do with house design and build, as per Passive houses and the like. And as for the mud brick houses in the Yemen...Sanaa, they are beautiful and functional, but your SE would have kittens. Conversely, they have stood for a very long time. We have a lot to learn.

Regards...Dick.

 

[Mcluma]

On the trusses

do you glue (PU) the braces on??

If i would do it, i would glue them on, and then screw them

Its looking good

 

[Cegidfa]

Hi McLuma,

Yes the braces will be glued and screwed.I have exterior Evo-stik which is stronger than the wood(allegedly) You mention PU, is it any better?
You haven’t re-explained about your method of fixing fence posts yet, would you mind another go for this dim old fart :roll:

Regards...Dick.

 

[Mcluma]

Sorry, have no pics here to show what to do

But you take the bottom of the post, and paint them with rubber paint (not cheap but works wonders - Gbp 10 per liter)

Then use some 20 cm of 20mm conduit, stick that at the bottom of the hole, undereath the post

Put the post on top of that, and then fill the hole with concrete

What this will do is.. if there is any shrinkage in the post, dripp water will not go into the wood, but will seep down the post down into the plastic conduit, as you know posts normally rot away from the bottom as they will stand in water

 

[Cegidfa]

Hi McLuma,

Thanks for that, as the Germans say, alles klar......Dick.

 

[Cegidfa]

Hi All,
I have just cut the first batch of inverse birdsmouths on the bandsaw, and thought that you might be in need of a laugh. Because the 6 x 2 is such a lump to hold, we made a 'sliding table' by laying some PTFE cooking sheet on a flat surface. Amazingly, it worked quite well. Must away and assemble them.

Regards...Dick.

 

[Mcluma]

Its looking good

nice workshop, very light

 

[Russell]

That PTFE sheet is good stuff I sell both adhesive and plain backed to UPVC companies for welding plastic windows and have used lots of it myself for various jobs where I needed to reduce friction and for cooking

 

[Vinny]

Dick

little bit off topic but how have you found the BS. I took delivery of my BS350 about a fortnight ago and its proving "eventful" to set up. When tensioning the blade the scale reads no-where near what it should for the installed blade and I'm quite cautious of possibly over tensioning. I'm getting a good deal of "drift", all the bearings and rollers are set up as per the instructions so I'm putting the problem down to the blade, going to order one from tuffsaws very soon.

Shops looking very good btw, green eyed monster is starting to make himself heard :wink:

Cheers

Vinny

 

[Eric The Viking]

Dick

little bit off topic but how have you found the BS. I took delivery of my BS350 about a fortnight ago and its proving "eventful" to set up. When tensioning the blade the scale reads no-where near what it should for the installed blade and I'm quite cautious of possibly over tensioning. I'm getting a good deal of "drift", all the bearings and rollers are set up as per the instructions so I'm putting the problem down to the blade, going to order one from tuffsaws very soon.

Vinny

Have you tried Steve M's bandsaw videos?

I ask because you're not alone in distrusting the tension 'meter'. Mine (SIP 12" variety) is approximate at best. Having stripped, cleaned and lubed it a while ago, I've got it reading more accurately, but it's still just a bit of steel shim wedged in a spring!

Steve describes a far better approach, which I use and like - tensioning by ear. It's better if he explains it than if I do (get the vid!). Suffice it to say, I've got a tension memorised for each blade size, and re-set it each time to avoid tiring' the blades. Works for me!

I'd also say that Ian's blades are brilliant - I've only recently tried some of the smaller sizes (had a resawing one fitted before), and they're outstanding, especially for freehand work. OK, mine is a small saw, but I've been really pleased with the performance I'm getting from it.

HTH,

E.

 

[Vinny]

Eric

I've got Steves DVD's and a set of 3 night shifts coming up, so come next week i'll have an idea of what youre on about !

Any how thats Dicks thread hijacked enough.

Vinny

 

[Cegidfa]

Hi McLuma,

Not only is it light, it’s warm too, and not far from the house :wink:

Hi Russell,

Welcome to the fun and helpfulness that this build is generating. I was a bit dubious about doing the write up, but because of the people on this forum, I am really glad I did.
It actually restores one’s faith in humanity; and that is a serious statement, not overblown sentimentality.

Hi Vinny,

At the beginning, I wrote a green eyed monster exclusion clause. Under that banner you would be classified as a tiger (see page 1).
The picture shows my first use of the B/S so it is early days yet. However, it seems that any comments must be tempered by reference to the price. Having waded chest deep through this site and others, it seems that even if one pays an alarming amount of money for kit, it can still have problems. Unusually for me, I read the book and watched the DVD by Alan Holtham first. My initial reaction is that it isn’t too bad for the price, excepting that it was welded on the p... The guides leave something to be desired, as some of them will not sit perpendicular to the blade, and trying to grab hold of the end to push/pull it to the correct setting is a pain. I see an early intervention to counter drill the end and tap in an allen screw so that I have something to grab hold of. As to tension, I follow AH’s tip, all you need is enough tension to drive the blade, that is, no slip when cutting. All other problems are down to a bad blade. I too will be ordering a set of Tuffsaw blades, as they get good reviews on here. Please let us know what you think of them, Eric seems pleased.
PS. Love your tag line.

Regards to all...Dick.

 

[Mcluma]

So what's happening,

Are all your trusses done?

It must be getting really growded in your conservatory?

 

[Cegidfa]

Hi McSlavedriver,

No more trusses have been manufactured due, firstly, to removing the end chimney. It has been leaking into the bedroom and we didn’t want to risk a Winter’s worth of rain on the ridgeboard end, rafters and insulation. Secondly, a trip to Frome to visit the grandchildren for the eldest’s birthday. We have also come home to a leak under the sink, which manifested itself when we turned the water back on......oh joy. Thank goodness we fitted an easily accessible Surestop water switch some time back, as the cock is impossible to get to. Spare us from inept plumbers......Dick

 

[billybuntus]

Just to make you aware that some little scrote appears to have stolen your chimney! :shock:

 

[flying haggis]

Just to make you aware that some little scrote appears to have stolen your chimney! :shock:

What is santa going to do now!!!??