New Workshop Build - Advice and opinions welcome!

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Heluvaname

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I am planning to use coated steel box profile roofing sheets with insulation pre-bonded to them.
Ridge is a coated steel apex ridge and gable ends are 90 degree coated steel pieces.
Not cheap, but simple to install and as it is very rigid from ridge to eaves requires a lot less timber support structure.
 

MARK.B.

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I would have liked to have found a forum like this when i built my workshop :cry: there are a number of things i would have done in a different way o_O . It has stood the test of time so far almost 18 years and fingers crossed it will last a lot longer :). At 36'x14' it took me around 8 months to complete minus the fitting out . Most of it i did by myself including the concrete base in two pours . All frame work was was done in sections and lifted into place and here i did need help . I did use 2x4's at 24" centers to span the gap :eek: Mainly because i had a load of treated stuff left over and unwanted from a huge fence build and it was free if i could shift it , i did add belt n braces with 16mm threaded rods to give some extra strength every 3' or so partly as the roof is concrete tiles left over from when the house was re roofed ( I made a huge fopar when guestimating how many i would need :censored::censored::censored: . If you only have 2x4's or want to save a few bob the threaded rod is an option and it is cheaper than the same length 6x2. Lengths of the rods over 3 meters and the price goes up a lot if you want it delivered ,jointing nuts are cheap and its easier to handle and install in two pieces.(y)
 

Jameshow

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I've been looking into corrugated sheet for the roof, but it may be cost prohibitive. I'm also not sure of the process for installing it on a flat roof, particularly the finish on the ends and sides. Any advice here would be appreciated....
Normally you would put a barge board front and sides. The back would overhand the rear wall and drop into a gutter.

You would want to put some foam in the ends to stop vermin getting under it.

Cheers James
 

Stuart Moffat

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I've been looking into corrugated sheet for the roof, but it may be cost prohibitive. I'm also not sure of the process for installing it on a flat roof, particularly the finish on the ends and sides. Any advice here would be appreciated....
I have some very recent experience of this, albeit on a bigger build. My old workshop was in two adjoining stables, each just big enough for one horse I reckon. It was cramped and cold, and for processing big stuff, I would have to whell the bandsaw, Planer etc outside. At the same time there was a fairly decrepit building nearly 20M x5M that was built in the 60s as a Cattery/Kennels. For ages one end had been a home for tractor and similar and the other end was just used for storage as a barn. I had looked forward to renovating it for 10 years, but for some reason my wife wanted the house sorted first! Then in the bad storms 2 years ago a big tree fell across the middle of it. My renovation made use of the foundations, drainage and services that were fine, and I reused as much as possible. It was done to the original planning granted, including roof pitch etc, and I had intended to roof it with ply and then a 3 layer felting done by a local roofer. I should have been ready for the felting by end of summer 2019. Good weather time. Then one night I got carted to hospital with the blue lights with a heart scare. By the time that was sorted the long winter wet weather had started and felting not really a good option. A triple felt system for that size was going to cost just under £4k. I discovered that I could buy Trisomet foor cladding to do the whole thing for just under 4K delivered. A no brainer I waould say. I gought mine from Rollacald which is right next door to the TaTa steel factory where it is made. They will cut the lengths to the precise dimension you require, and that price included all the fixings, ridge capping, etc etc. The stuff is used for many warehouse constructions you see everywhere, but also sold in smaller quantities, my driver's next drop was a nearby farm where he was repairing an old barn.
I should really post some pictures of the build. I got it coloured black to match the black weatherboarding and it looks great. Becuase it is designed to be airtight if installed properly, I decided I might as well make the whole building airtight. Easy for a woodworker if you are precise in building the walls (every panel of insulation between the studs in mine had to be tapped into place with a mallet - they all fitted precisely on all 4 sides!
I had envisaged putting in a wood burner - but I really haven't had to heat the building over the winter just gone. The Camvac quickly warms the place once I start working, and the relative humidity has stayed around the 50% mark throughout.
If you are interested in installation type questions I'll be happy to elaborate.
Obviously it is good to have an insulated roof without fixing it between rafters :)
 

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