New Veritas beading tool
- Thread starter Lord Nibbo
- Start date
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Smudger
Established Member
It's a damn sight cheaper than my LN!
paulm
IG paulm_outdoors
Lord Nibbo":1d62ullc said:
Not so sure LN, Rob had one at the Salisbury bash last week and I think the jury was out on it to some extent, although to be fair it wasn't given a proper workout.
Would be interesting to hear how Rob finds it after a bit more time using it ?
Cheers, Paul
woodbloke
Established Member
chisel":sjmyu6fs said:Lord Nibbo":sjmyu6fs said:
Not so sure LN, Rob had one at the Salisbury bash last week and I think the jury was out on it to some extent, although to be fair it wasn't given a proper workout.
Would be interesting to hear how Rob finds it after a bit more time using it ?
Cheers, Paul
Agree with Paul, there were one or two minor issues with it that I need to look at first. We only used it very quickly at the Winterbash last week, mainly to do with the fence configuration. IIrc Rob Lee has it all sorted in the 'book of words' so once it's properly set up and used in 'slow time' I fully expect it to be up to the usual high Veritas standard. One of the strange things about it which no one could quite fathom was the long side handle...not really needed as most of the pressure is used directly near the cutter - Rob
Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)
Established Member
Hi Rob
I am curious to know what difficulties you had with the fence?
I am sure that these have been sorted - the one I received yesterday didn't appear to present with any problems. However I have only had a brief run with the straight fence.
Regards from Perth
Derek
I am curious to know what difficulties you had with the fence?
I am sure that these have been sorted - the one I received yesterday didn't appear to present with any problems. However I have only had a brief run with the straight fence.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Paul Chapman
Established Member
I had a brief go with the tool at Rob's bash. Not long enough to make a proper assessment but my first impressions were:
1. The fence was a bit odd. One thing I didn't like was that to adjust the distance between the cutter and the fence, you would need to move the cutter - I would rather move the fence.
2. The sole, while rounded on one edge, wasn't rounded enough. I have one of Pete's scratch stocks/beading tools and that has a much more rounded sole
I find this particularly helpful when starting cuts.
3. The handles felt odd and might get in the way rather than provide the best way to hold the tool.
As I say, these were only quick, first impressions and maybe the tool is better with use. It was certainly very nicely made and well up to the LV high standards.
Cheers :ho2
Paul
1. The fence was a bit odd. One thing I didn't like was that to adjust the distance between the cutter and the fence, you would need to move the cutter - I would rather move the fence.
2. The sole, while rounded on one edge, wasn't rounded enough. I have one of Pete's scratch stocks/beading tools and that has a much more rounded sole
I find this particularly helpful when starting cuts.
3. The handles felt odd and might get in the way rather than provide the best way to hold the tool.
As I say, these were only quick, first impressions and maybe the tool is better with use. It was certainly very nicely made and well up to the LV high standards.
Cheers :ho2
Paul
woodbloke
Established Member
Derek - I don't want to make any further comment on the minor issues that we found with the tool until I've given it a full test in 'slow time' in the 'shop. As I said earlier, the info pamphlet is pretty comprehensive so I need to go through it carefully and set the tool up properly before it gets the 'green light'...it probably will, but I just want to make sure - Rob :ho2
Paul Chapman
Established Member
ydb1md":r2yw12et said:
Don't think so - he made me one as a favour.
Cheers :ho2
Paul
woodbloke
Established Member
I'm fairly sure that the answer will be a pretty firm 'no' but I'll ask him...he's coming round here in 20 mins :lol: - Robydb1md":2z1558bh said:
woodbloke
Established Member
ydb1md":2a1mbuh7 said:
A definite 'NO' - Rob
Philly
Established Member
Don't see why not - it was modelled on Garrett Hack's simple wooden version at West Dean.
Philly
Philly
woodbloke
Established Member
Traditional ones were always made out of hardwood...it's the adjustable fence that's a lot more difficult to do in wood - Robwizer":2fj1hqwq said:
Hi -
(cross-post from another board)
Just a few observations - as we don't always telegraph what we're thinking about in a design....
First of all - beaders aren't rocket science - cut a slot in a dowel, and drive a screw in the end - and you've got an acceptable handle...same goes for mounting a blade to a block of wood with a fence.
The inspiration for this beader came really from coach-maker's tools - generally used on compound curved surfaces.
Recognizing that beading is generally an edge treatment, we wanted one long handle for registration/stabilisation, and a shorter handle close to the blade to control orientation/force. It's an odd looking arrangement - but one that works well for that purpose. In addition - since the tool is handed - we had to make it convertible from right- to left-handed.
If all you do is bead the edge of flat straight panels - then may of the features in this beader won't be useful for you...
This one really is a different style of beader... and it sure won't hold universal appeal...but it is intended to things that a regular beader won't - gentle curves in mutliple axes...
Cheers -
Rob
I'll add a few more comments here for the UK... this is much closer in style to a European tool, than an American one. We looked at a lot Preston designs again for this one (I feel Preston out-designed Stanley). Most people really should be making beaders, and not buying them in the first place.... as no single design will be best for everyone...or a range of applications. We really made this to do the jobs that others won't do well...
If you do a lot of beading - then you'll recognise that you just can't do it all with one tool.
Rob (off to shovel snow AGAIN...)
(cross-post from another board)
Just a few observations - as we don't always telegraph what we're thinking about in a design....
First of all - beaders aren't rocket science - cut a slot in a dowel, and drive a screw in the end - and you've got an acceptable handle...same goes for mounting a blade to a block of wood with a fence.
The inspiration for this beader came really from coach-maker's tools - generally used on compound curved surfaces.
Recognizing that beading is generally an edge treatment, we wanted one long handle for registration/stabilisation, and a shorter handle close to the blade to control orientation/force. It's an odd looking arrangement - but one that works well for that purpose. In addition - since the tool is handed - we had to make it convertible from right- to left-handed.
If all you do is bead the edge of flat straight panels - then may of the features in this beader won't be useful for you...
This one really is a different style of beader... and it sure won't hold universal appeal...but it is intended to things that a regular beader won't - gentle curves in mutliple axes...
Cheers -
Rob
I'll add a few more comments here for the UK... this is much closer in style to a European tool, than an American one. We looked at a lot Preston designs again for this one (I feel Preston out-designed Stanley). Most people really should be making beaders, and not buying them in the first place.... as no single design will be best for everyone...or a range of applications. We really made this to do the jobs that others won't do well...
If you do a lot of beading - then you'll recognise that you just can't do it all with one tool.
Rob (off to shovel snow AGAIN...)
Paul Chapman
Established Member
Rob Lee":3pt41981 said:
Spot on :wink: Thanks for the insight into your thinking on this tool.
Cheers :ho2
Paul
bugbear
Established Member
Paul Chapman":385c73rr said:
A wider less rounded sole (not flat) allows depth of cutter control by resting the stock on an edge, and rolling the tool on the long axis, in the same way that old books recommend using a marking gauge (shallow mark to start with, then re-emphasised in a second pass).
BugBear
bugbear
Established Member
woodbloke":ymsklgqk said:
Hmm. That is odd; many older scratch tools have a long handle, but it's used to get the cutter central, to avoid twisting forces. To keep to this principle, it's the "far side" handle (with the knob) that would need elongating. But I'm sure LV gave the design considerable testing.
I describe scratch stock design issue in some depth on my web page (which needs an update now!)
http://www.geocities.com/plybench/scratch.html
BugBear
