New table for RAS

[Grahamshed]

Hi guys.
I need to put a new table on my RAS. old one is just flat mdf with a plain mdf fence trapped between two parts of the table at the back. works ok but it there anything useful that can be added to tart it up a bit ?

I am thinking maybe a much wider table ( maybe 4 foot ) and possibly incorporating T track into the fence for stops etc ?

 

[9fingers]

Maybe a T track along the top edge of each fence half so you can attach some sort of flip stop for repeat cuts?
I've not bothered (yet) and just use an F clamp as a stop but it can get in the way sometimes.

Some sort of gadget to make it dead easy to set back to 90 degree cut? Mine is such a PITA to set back to 90 exactly, I go to great lengths to cut non 90 degree crosscuts by other means just to avoid the problem.

Let us know what you end up doing.

Bob

 

[kirkpoore1]

I would assume that your T-track would not be located any where the RAS is going to cut through the fence when the arm is is set for mitered cuts or the head is tilted. Otherwise you'll just be slicing up t-track.

I've found with my RAS that I like as tall a fence as I can get away with. This makes it easy to clamp stops or jigs. Also, since the fence is easy to change on mine, I keep one fence for 90 and 45 degree cuts and a second fence for cuts at other angles (15 & 22.5 degrees), and a third fence for those rare occasions where I cut with the head tilted. If you do all of these with the same fence, you chew up so much of it that you have to replace the fence.

Wide is good, of course. Consider, too, making the table wider to the left. Since tables are usually centered on the column, and the blade is left of the column, the left side of the table often doesn't support the work too well.

Kirk

 

[Grahamshed]

I've found with my RAS that I like as tall a fence as I can get away with.
<snip>
Wide is good, of course. Consider, too, making the table wider to the left. Since tables are usually centered on the column, and the blade is left of the column, the left side of the table often doesn't support the work too well.

Kirk

Having a taller fence makes good sense, I am forever having problems with cramps on the low one.

I am planning on a 4 foot table which would be 2 feet either side of the blade for the reasons you state.

I am thinking though that I might have a fixed ( ie glued ) fence as I do not picture myself doing any mitre cuts on it. To much hassle recentering the blade. I was thinking that having the fence(s) on t track would allow me to adjust them to make sure they are square but that is probably over thinking it.

 

[9fingers]

I don't know if you have work surfaces near to the RAS but in my shop, all surfaces are set a the same level which effectively gives me over 3.5 metres to the left of the saw blade on the RAS. It is rare that I need this or indeed can make use of it without a serious tidy up but maybe you might consider setting your new table as the same height of nearby surfaces.

Bob

 

[kirkpoore1]

I don't know if you have work surfaces near to the RAS but in my shop, all surfaces are set a the same level which effectively gives me over 3.5 metres to the left of the saw blade on the RAS. It is rare that I need this or indeed can make use of it without a serious tidy up but maybe you might consider setting your new table as the same height of nearby surfaces.

Bob

When my shop was in my basement, I built my drill press stand so that the table was the exact height of my RAS table for that reason. They weren't adjacent (there was a shaper with a lower table in between), but for longer boards it worked great.

Now I just use a roller stand to the left of the RAS, because there's a door there.

Kirk

 

[mailee]

I also have my RAS housed in a long bench with around 8' each side of the blade. I never use it for mitre cuts and keep it locked at 90 degrees. If I need to mitre I usually use my SCMS or I have an adjustable fence for the RAS. :wink:

 

[shepherd]

Recently did this on my Stromab. New 19mm wbp bed, use the old one to copy fixing points.

Dont try and put the fence too far back as it limits the height of the workpiece you can fit under the blade.

Been using the 3m Flipstop system for years now, very easy to set up. You need a 40mm wide fence to mount it on though, just planed up some joinery pine for this.

Another good tip is to fit a thin sheet of ply/hardboard on top of your new bed, this goes 4mm infront of the fence so have channel for dust which can be cleaned out instead of it getting between the workpiece and fence. When top is worn out you can replace, leaving your carefully leveled sub base in situe.

That's all I can remember.