Is the blade designed with the right set of holes for cap iron screws etc?
Both are normally addressed if you make it clear what you need it for when ordering - but if you just 'buy a LN blade', for example, it may be too thick unless you're ready to do some tweaking. Best bet is to speak to someone in sales. HTH
I successfully fitted a Holtey A2 blade in a Record 4SS. It was a lovely plane. I had to file out about 1mm out of the mouth. This one was a marriage of pre-war and post-war parts, so I was not desecrating an ancient monument. The cap iron screw was long enough, but you can order extra long ones with some blades. Take care as the cast iron is surprisingly soft and cuts quickly. I used masking tape to mark a line to file to. Any 2" wide blade with the usual Bailey type slot will fit with similar fettling.
I have a question I suppose for the North American contributors. Ohio Tool used a much thicker blade than the run of the mill Stanly's did. Would the heavier A-2 blades produced by LV or LN fit them without Alteration?
I have an Ohio #8 that I put a LN blade for their #8 into (not their replacement blades, but the full thickness blade).
Works like a charm. But even Tom himself was suprised it fit. If it didn't, they said they would do the exchange for the thinner replacement blade (which is still thicker than an original) and refund the difference in cost. Good folks they are.
I didn't have them make me a chip breaker opting to reuse the original. So there is a bit of slop in the adjustment, but I only adjust the pipper once or twice while planing anyway--if that.
I just tried a L-N thick blade in my Record #6 from the 1970's and the tang on the Y-lever (2-part sheet metal) is not long enough to go through the blade and locate in the chip breaker. It's worth measuring, and also check if the tang is tapered there may be a lot more backlash in the adjustment. I remembered that happened in the #4 I pictured, though the forged solid Y-lever did locate enough to work OK.