New kitchen project

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sean_in_limerick":1zv0r6xf said:
Hi All,
A little more progress on the kitchen, i now have all the carcases in place and just :) need to go around and build the doors, drawer fronts and face frames - starting to see the end of it now.

Pictures are still at

http://www.flickr.com/photos/forest_vie ... 455262172/

Sean
It's looking very good sean, infact very very good. we must see pics when tiled and the work tops are on. :) \:D/
 
Thanks - the countertop is causing me headaches - the area jutting out is going to be a 'breakfast bar' area - and i am thinking of doing this out of wood - the area where the drawers are missing is the problem - we couldn't justify the cost of granite worktops (quotes are around 4 thousand euro - which is more than what we have spent on the kitchen!) - can anyone suggest how to fill the area nearly around this unit? It is about 32 inches deep and it has spaces either side that need to be covered with (probably) formica worktops - how can this be done neatly?

My own thoughts are that maybe i will use a breakfast bar sized counter top to give me the extra depth and perhaps an oak trim around the countertop to hide the chipboard edges after i cut it to fit the openings either side of this area.

Any suggestions would be very welcome.

Sean
 
how about looking for granite tiles, either new or second hand to go round the outside??

actually you could also use concrete around the area, can be made to look smooth and attractive. some pictures have appeared in Fine Homebuilding in the past, may well be on the web site for Taunton.

paul :wink:
 
Hi All
Everything is still running, i had a pretty bad car accident lately so things have been a bit slow - but a few bits have been done as i have been stuck at home for the last 6 weeks with nothing to do except look at my unfinished kitchen! The photos are still at http://www.flickr.com/photos/forest_vie ... 455262172/

I now only have a couple more left to finish, before i start thinking about getting the countertop and preparing the kitchen for the install (electricals and plumbing, painting etc). There is a breakfast-bar area in the kitchen which i am going to panel at the back, and put an angled wrap-around panel on the end ( 2 45degree pieces on either side of a flat panel in the center. The idea is that it will break up the square edge of the breakfast bar as it panels around it. The question i have is what is the best way to attach panels to the carcasses? I obviously don't want to be running screws through oak panels from the front side into the chipboard carcasses and i have a concern that if i simply run screws into the oak from the inside won't there be a danger of the wood splitting over time as it expands and contracts? As you can see from the photos's lots of these panels must be fitted - all suggestions welcome.

Sean
 
Hi Sean, sorry to hear about the accident...6 weeks off makes it sound like a bad one. Glad to hear that you are on the mend now though.

I think that the usual method of fixing decorative end panels etc. is to screw them on from the inside of the cabinet.
 
thanks George, my concern with screwing from the inside is cracking of the panels over time as the screws will prevent them from moving with the seasons...

The accident was a nasty one, a fractured skull and damaged hands, but i am nicely on the mend now, just a bit of residual whiplash in the back and a few headaches - i will be back at work in the next week or two i think.
 
maybe i am wrong sean, but is it worth thinking about false backs??

maybe you could clip the panels on the back attached to double brackets.

good to hear you are improving. getting hurts a b isn't it??

paul :wink:
 
ok sean, what i mean is that you have a bracket that fixes to the back panel, and one on the unit. they slide into each other.

think about your fingers interlocking, and that is basically how it works.

will see what i can find.
paul :wink:
 
Hafele do a pop-on dowel connector system reference 267.85.030 or 267.20.700 which will do the job. Or what about double-sided foam tape (the 3M industrial stuff used in car body shops, etc) . That stuff sticks like, well I'm sure you know what, but allows some movement, too. Also what about rare earth magnets?

If you are screwing surely the simple solution would be to drill a hole larger than the screw thread and use round head screws sitting on a washer

sean_in_limerick":4zpir2w2 said:
what do you mean by double brackets Paul?
French cleats, Paul?

Scrit
 
i wondered about wooden french cleats scrit but thought they might be too thick. :roll:


what i was thinking about was those bed cleats. never happy with them on a bed, where they are often used to connect the side rails to a headboard, but where there is no movement they seem to have value cause you could just clip them on and off. :?

paul :wink:
 
thanks guys, - i will probably screw the panels in place, but i will get hold of the hafele wotzits to have a look at them.

Sean
 
Hi All,
Still going, everything is now built and i will be doing the fixing this week. This involves a bit of plumbing for the sink/dishwasher, a gas pipe in the floor and chasing electric cables all around the kitchen. I now have to think more about countertops. We got a quote for granite and it was more than what i have shelled-out already on all the oak and tools! So we will be putting in a formica (or whatever the chipboard based on is called). Having said that i want to do the best job possibe, and i have been looking at the router jigs for tightening joints together using the bolts recessed into them. Does anybody know of an silly person's guide to doing this? Also they seem to come in 2 flavours, 600 and 900 mm, what is the reasoning behind this? I have a breakfast bar that will be connected at right angles to a normal 650mm countertop (well i will if i can source it) - I also have some angled areas that will require shaping with a jigsaw and then covering with that iron-on covering stuff. Any experience or advice that people would like to share would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Sean
 
Sean,
The 600 and 900mm is the size of the biggest work top the jig can be used on.

I have only cut one joint and the best instructions I know of are on page that Ray (Argee) one of our members has posted here.
 
Whenever I fit worktops, I always cut the female part of the joint first.
Once that is cut I lay it in place, then lay the worktop to receive the male part over the top.
I then mark to the underside/top side (depending on whether it is a left or right hand joint) where the female joint is, then cut to this line allowing for guide pin clearances, usually 9mm.
By doing this it will still wit well if the walls are slightly out of square.
Hope this is of some help to you.
 
HI again,
I have the trend router worktop jig and have been trying to sort our what i will have to do (worktops arrive in a couple of days time). I have been looking at the instruction book available online at: http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/library ... 0%20v2.pdf

careful this is a 2MByte file, but i'm sure you have all seen it before. I have a right-hand peninsula joint (90degee right hand joint from Ray (Argee) page), i assume that i must turn the jig/template upside down, the trend booklet says that the label must be upwards, but the example appears to be a left hand joint , for the right hand joint is it simply a case of inverting the jig? Hope you can follow my ravings.

more_tools_please, i am still trying to get clear in my head what you are trying to tell me!

Thanks everyone.

Sean
 
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