New chuck question

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If you consider how well made the little Burnerd chucks are, and how little load there can be on a 3 inch or so chuck, I think you are likely to be pretty safe, if it looks ok it probably will be.
 
Thanks for the info. Having now seen some pictures of the the older Burnerd chucks with the lever arm/tommy bar? tightening they look to be a much better size and weight for my tiny lathe so I'll keep on managing with what I have whilst trying to find a used one. I'm also going to try using the rohm drill chuck which is fitted with a mt0 to fit the tailstock in the headstock and see how that works?

Interesting Cowells still make almost the same lathe, complete with morse 0, although with some useful improvement, a 0.007mm accuracy and a £2000+VAT price tag. http://www.cowells.com/docs/90e.pdf.
 
Going back to you betting a piece of work to run true after taking it out of the Jaws. You do not say how you are remounting it.
We used DTI's or clocks, you could get the work piece true that way. When it gets to 2, 3 though you would just tighten the side where it was running low, never release the jaw on the high side at all.
You may do this, if so apologies.
Going by eye is not very accurate, it' ok as a starting point, you would still need a clock to get the work piece really true. 0.1 mm is 4 thou to me (yes i am old) you should get it to 1 thou or zero with a clock.
 
Thanks for the info. Having now seen some pictures of the the older Burnerd chucks with the lever arm/tommy bar? tightening they look to be a much better size and weight for my tiny lathe so I'll keep on managing with what I have whilst trying to find a used one. I'm also going to try using the rohm drill chuck which is fitted with a mt0 to fit the tailstock in the headstock and see how that works?

Interesting Cowells still make almost the same lathe, complete with morse 0, although with some useful improvement, a 0.007mm accuracy and a £2000+VAT price tag. http://www.cowells.com/docs/90e.pdf.
It's a nice little machine, but the size does rather limit you options. I use a 5c collet chuck, but it probably weighs more than your machine! I had a look on line and saw the Rohm one. If it's accurate enough then hopefully it may well do the trick for you. You might find someone who does a chuck to take watchmaking collets, but then the collets themselves are ridiculously expensive. Alternatively some of the ER ones come with a straight shank, or in the larger MT sizes. So maybe an ER11 with a suitable sized plain or MT1 could be ground down to fit your taper by a local engineering firm? Shouldn't cost that much.
 
Just looked at the Cowells link. It reminds me so much of a miniature version of my old Myford 4.
Yes, I've seen a Myford ml2 and my Simat is obviously a cheapo miniature copy. I'd love to upgrade it but it always just does what I need, although very slowly....
 
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Not sure that the run out of the chuck body is necessarily a reflection of the accuracy with which it holds work in the jaws, and thats what matters.
You are correct. My post wasn't very clear. What I was meaning to show is that RDG had made an 'OK' job of mounting the chuck to the backplate. There was about 1 thou run-out. The chuck is a DIN 6350, which will have a specification for max Axial run-out. I'm not sure what the max is.
 
Yes, I've seen a Myford ml2 and my Simat is obviously a cheapo miniature copy. I'd love to upgrade it but it always just does what I need, although very slowly....
I still use the Myford regularly, it's a nice old machine. And from memory the Simat was at least as well made. I used to have a Unimat, which is a nice machine but not as solid. I think you actually learn more using a little machine, you have to think about how you approach things a bit more carefully. I made some quite big pieces in the past using the Myford, as you say definitely a case of slowly does it. I dont think I would want to part with it, but it's semi retired now and just used for small stuff in plastic mostly. My Harrison takes on all the bigger jobs. That too is a great machine, but if anything it's too good so you don't have to make allowances for it. Not as much fun somehow charging through something on powerfeed rather than having to coax it along.
 
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