New bandsaw

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stephensoncj

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I have a lumberjack bs254 which isn’t hacking it when cutting kitchen worktops. Without spending a kings ransom can you recommend one that will?
 

Sandyn

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Welcome to the forum. In what way is the bandsaw not able to cut the worktop. Could be a case of just getting a really good blade of the correct type for cutting the worktop.
 

Sandyn

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with a good blade, and the saw set up properly, the Lumberjack should be able to cut worktop. You need to give the saw time to cut and not feed the wood in too fast. Does the motor stall, or the blade slip? If you are cutting curves, you need the correct width blade for what you are trying to achieve. What material are you cutting and how thick?
 

Richard_C

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My limited experience of Bandsaws has taught me that you can't do everything with just one blade. I now own 5 for different things and have got reasonably adept at blade changes. My machine struggled with resawing some old softwood door frames, got a 3 tpi sabre cut blade in it and it was easier than cutting bread.

I wonder if the worktop might be particleboard and the blade gets sticky? A call to Tuffsaws perhaps, they will be able to tell you what works best for that job.
 

Ttrees

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Doesn't kitchen worktops often have the odd bit of metal as they're made from pallets?
Might be worth looking into m42 blades, and a saw which can tension those.

Sounds like the see curve cutters motor might be a bit smelly?
 

Robbo3

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The Lumberjack 254 looks to be a 10" hobby machine. I suspect it would trim lengths of worktop, if that's what you are doing, if the worktop is supported properly with tables or roller stands.
Sounds like you may have kinked the blade. That's enough to prevent the motor moving the blade through the guides.
Does the motor run ok without a blade installed?
Really need more information on what you are trying to do & how you set the machine up.
 

rogxwhit

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This looks like one of those rambling chats that can often develop.

If you want pertinent advice, you need to lay down some basic information. Worktop, for instance is too generic a term. What material is it made from, and how thick? What blade are you using? Is it tensioned right? What type of cuts are being attempted - straight, curved, what radius?
 

deema

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My two penny worth, I suspect the capacitor on the motor needs changing, you don’t need much power for a bandsaw, and unless your doing something really unusual it’s fairly difficult to stall one. However, if the capacitor starts to degrade, the power of the motor is compromise. The cap will continue to degrade until the motor won’t start and just buzzes. Don’t leave the motor switched on if it’s not turning, turn it off as soon as possible. When the motor isn’t turning electricity sees this as a dead short circuit. The coils of the motor will heat up and very quickly not only will the motor be cooked, but you will have a nice warm fire.
 

Sandyn

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Yesterday, I turned on my bandsaw. There was a definite sluggishness to starting. Noisy when power applied, then a couple of seconds longer to get up to speed. I checked the capacitor, it was 32uF, which is just within spec, but decided to get a replacement. New one arrived this morning, fitted and motor starting OK now.
 

stephensoncj

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My two penny worth, I suspect the capacitor on the motor needs changing, you don’t need much power for a bandsaw, and unless your doing something really unusual it’s fairly difficult to stall one. However, if the capacitor starts to degrade, the power of the motor is compromise. The cap will continue to degrade until the motor won’t start and just buzzes. Don’t leave the motor switched on if it’s not turning, turn it off as soon as possible. When the motor isn’t turning electricity sees this as a dead short circuit. The coils of the motor will heat up and very quickly not only will the motor be cooked, but you will have a nice warm fire.
It looks
Like the capacitor is fried , contacted the supplier and they are
Looking into it..
 
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