Hi
Not posted a project for ages, mainly due to work pressures but had this one on the burner for a while.
Now I know the design is a bit of a risk, but you learn from your mistakes. Maybe it will last, maybe it won't. I've done what I think is enough to protect the short grain, but I'm a just naive/optimistic amateur so no guarantees (hammer) .
It's part one of a nest of tables but I'll give this one a bit of time (just incase) before I tackle the other one.
Its made from air dried english walnut from http://www.woodbypost.fsnet.co.uk/. It has some sap wood running through it.
The finish is Fiddes Hard Wax Oil which I have never used before and is fast becoming my new favourite finish. It's nice and thin and comes up with a nice sheen. Just to finish off I've added some Neutral Liberon Paste Wax on top to give a nice smooth finish to the touch.
Legs are glued with standard PVA, but the cross members are glued with Liberon Pearl Glue, just incase the glass is the first to go (optimistic!) I can still separate and put in a replacement.
Glass is 8mm toughened. It's maybe not clear from the pics but the front and back faces are curved slightly, they bulge out by 5mm across the width which takes the 'squareness' off the sheet. I had massively different quotes on the glass from £26 to £230!. I went for the cheapest with no issues.
All the pieces have some kind of curve including the leading and trailing edges of the uprights. All done with hand tools (spokeshaves and scrapers) after initial shaping on the bandsaw.
So, less chat and to the pics. First a pic of the finished item. You can see that the short grain where the glass intersects with the uprights will need some kind of strengthening.
Shot of the glass-wood intersection. The detailing is ebony.
So to strengthen things the ebony is hiding the metal fixing embedded into the wood. Its a C shape of aluminium which has been screwed and glued (epoxy) into the wood. This has then been encased with ebony to protect the glass from the metal. This is a very snug fit, so there is no play in the glass at all and all the pressures 'should' be on the metal fixing and not the short grain above. Thats the theory anyway :shock:
Also to help grip the glass some black sponge is added before final gluing.
Now some general shots of the details.
Curved Tenon Shoulders
Top view where you can pick out some of the 'curvy-ness'. They aren't hugh, but it takes the 'edge' off the overall structure and makes it less blocky.
Bigger pics can be found on Flickr
So there you go.
Darren
Not posted a project for ages, mainly due to work pressures but had this one on the burner for a while.
Now I know the design is a bit of a risk, but you learn from your mistakes. Maybe it will last, maybe it won't. I've done what I think is enough to protect the short grain, but I'm a just naive/optimistic amateur so no guarantees (hammer) .
It's part one of a nest of tables but I'll give this one a bit of time (just incase) before I tackle the other one.
Its made from air dried english walnut from http://www.woodbypost.fsnet.co.uk/. It has some sap wood running through it.
The finish is Fiddes Hard Wax Oil which I have never used before and is fast becoming my new favourite finish. It's nice and thin and comes up with a nice sheen. Just to finish off I've added some Neutral Liberon Paste Wax on top to give a nice smooth finish to the touch.
Legs are glued with standard PVA, but the cross members are glued with Liberon Pearl Glue, just incase the glass is the first to go (optimistic!) I can still separate and put in a replacement.
Glass is 8mm toughened. It's maybe not clear from the pics but the front and back faces are curved slightly, they bulge out by 5mm across the width which takes the 'squareness' off the sheet. I had massively different quotes on the glass from £26 to £230!. I went for the cheapest with no issues.
All the pieces have some kind of curve including the leading and trailing edges of the uprights. All done with hand tools (spokeshaves and scrapers) after initial shaping on the bandsaw.
So, less chat and to the pics. First a pic of the finished item. You can see that the short grain where the glass intersects with the uprights will need some kind of strengthening.
Shot of the glass-wood intersection. The detailing is ebony.
So to strengthen things the ebony is hiding the metal fixing embedded into the wood. Its a C shape of aluminium which has been screwed and glued (epoxy) into the wood. This has then been encased with ebony to protect the glass from the metal. This is a very snug fit, so there is no play in the glass at all and all the pressures 'should' be on the metal fixing and not the short grain above. Thats the theory anyway :shock:
Also to help grip the glass some black sponge is added before final gluing.
Now some general shots of the details.
Curved Tenon Shoulders
Top view where you can pick out some of the 'curvy-ness'. They aren't hugh, but it takes the 'edge' off the overall structure and makes it less blocky.
Bigger pics can be found on Flickr
So there you go.
Darren