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Need a wiring diagram from clarke motor (100LA/2)

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KingAether

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MOTOR NEW TYPE.JPG
I managed to get a wiring diagram ! Newbie question here but what are Cs and Cr; capstart and caprun ? the diagram is still like a foreign language to me 😂

Not quite so pressing but is there any way a 3ph switch can be wired for a 1ph motor or do i have to put this switch box back on the shelf ?
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Spectric

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Personally I would buy a new one, you know that it is safe and that the overload is functional rather than that very old MEM.
 

KingAether

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This was my best try at following the diagrams but no joy, but also no bang or smoke so that’s good
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MikeK

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This was my best try at following the diagrams but no joy, but also no bang or smoke so that’s good
View attachment 110565
View attachment 110564
Where does the cable on the right, connected to W2 and U2, go? This doesn't look correctly wired, since the blue and brown wires of this cable appear to be effectively connected to each other because of the shorting strap.

Also, how do you have the Iskra contactor wired? Did you follow the Iskra recommendation for the 1-pole or 2-pole configuration? From what I've seen on the Internet, if you configure the contactor as a 1-pole device, you connect the brown line wire to Terminal 1, connect a short jumper between Terminals 2 and 4, another short jumper between Terminals 3 and 5, and the brown wire to the motor to Terminal 6. This method assumes the blue line and motor conductors are connected together.

I recommend the 2-pole configuration with the brown line wire connected to Terminal 1, the blue line wire connected to Terminal 5, the brown motor wire connected to Terminal 4, the blue motor wire connected to Terminal 6, and a jumper wire connected to Terminals 2 and 3.
 

KingAether

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I sometimes draw a blank and really struggle to understand a fairly simple concept and unfortunately this seems to be one.
Would either of you mine drawing a dummy proof diagram with wire colours etc, the diagram Clarke sent me might as well be French, it would be very much appreciated!
MOTOR NEW TYPE.JPG6444dcb0719b0078faa2a1c5685b69f4.pngDiagrams again for easy checking in one place
motor diag.pngI've already started one based on your 2-pole recommendation, all the terminals marked and winding wires key'd, just need to save and complete it
 

guineafowl21

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^^^ MikeK is right, you haven’t added the jumper (dotted line in the diagram), so no power was getting through.

The diagrams you have found aren’t for your motor, as they include two caps. Even if that’s a variant of your motor, your wires have been swapped around so it’s meaningless - U1 should be one of the red wires, for a start.

Just hook it up as per my diagram, without the starter for now, to minimise complications. We’ll sort out the proper arrangement once we know the motor and starter work.
 
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KingAether

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^^^ MikeK is right, you haven’t added the jumper (dotted line in the diagram), so no power was getting through.

The diagrams you have found aren’t for your motor, as they include two caps. Even if that’s a variant of your motor, your wires have been swapped around so it’s meaningless - U1 should be one of the red wires, for a start.

Just hook it up as per my diagram, without the starter for now, to minimise complications. We’ll sort out the proper arrangement once we know the motor and starter work.
Ah thats a bit of a pain, its the one Clarke sent me for the motor model i gave them..

To go about wiring as per your diagram do the terminals matter at all or just the winding ends? If i swap one end of the run winding from V2 to U2 so i can strap to W2, do i not need to move the other end from V1 to U1 ? If not, just to clarify, that would be Live to V1, Neutral to U2(v2 currently) and strapped to W2 ? earth to ground of course. Do the two vertical lines mean the cap across V1 and W1

Also i really dont understand electrical diagrams, what do the squiggly lines mean? To make sure the resistance matches between W1+2 and V1+2 (U2) ?

I've already corrected the wires in the starter based on Mikes comment, as shown in my previous post if that is now correct
 
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guineafowl21

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Here’s a simpler diagram.

1. Re-arrange the red and green motor wires so they go to the terminals indicated. Note that the terminals don’t connect to anything on their own; they’re merely tie points.

2. Connect the straps as shown.

3. Connect cap - the wire colours don’t matter.

4. Connect earth, line and neutral as shown.

I recommend you then directly wire on a plug for the test, since it’s best to test one thing at a time. There’s no point in addressing the starter if the motor’s goosed.

5. Secure the motor, and ohm check between the L and N pins of the plug with your meter - it should read the 1.0 ohm winding.

6. Plug in, and briefly switch on and off.

7. Report back.

image.jpg
 

KingAether

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Amazing, that i can understand, i will head out to the shed and give it a try in a few minuites and get back to you. Thank you very much again, you and mike for the time taken !
 

KingAether

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All works perfect, thanks once more for the help! I checked it on a plug then went on and added the switch once i knew it worked. 🥳 Now i can get back to ags itself. Now i have pictures of the correct wiring etc ill redo it before i put the saw into daily use and use more appropriate gauge cable and put terminal rings on the wire ends that are currently just clamped under the nuts
Me being the smarty pants i am managed to drop a terminal nut in the hole the winding wires come from so now i need to persuade the motors cap off so i can get it out. It made no problem but it rattling around was a bit of an ear ache
 
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guineafowl21

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All works perfect, thanks once more for the help! I checked it on a plug then went on and added the switch once i knew it worked. 🥳 Now i can get back to ags itself. Now i have pictures of the correct wiring etc ill redo it before i put the saw into daily use and use more appropriate gauge cable and put terminal rings on the wire ends that are currently just clamped under the nuts
Me being the smarty pants i am managed to drop a terminal nut in the hole the winding wires come from so now i need to persuade the motors cap off so i can get it out. It made no problem but it rattling around was a bit of an ear ache
Well done! Just confirm it’s spinning the right way before you button it all up.

With a high power motor like that I’d get, say, 5m of 2.5mm2, 3-core H07 RN-F rubber flex. Very hard wearing and supple. Places like CEF sell it by the metre. They would also do ring terminals, crimping pliers and even 2.5mm ferrules for the plug end, if you’re feeling fancy.
 

KingAether

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If not spinning the correct way is it just the straps that need to move ?
I checked and CEF down the road have the cable and ferrules and a friend will me a few ring terminals in the morning save buying 100 for 3
 

guineafowl21

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If not spinning the correct way is it just the straps that need to move ?
I checked and CEF down the road have the cable and ferrules and a friend will me a few ring terminals in the morning save buying 100 for 3
Yes, move the straps. Ferrules or possibly open ring terminals are also good for the starter connections.
 

KingAether

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Got it all rewired this afternoon, added ring terminals where needed and ferrules where i could; When i have the money i think ill replace all my machinery cable with this same stuff and make a 10/15m extension from it.
Once more thank you for all the help, been a great
186934418_864039604147276_5880381243236160123_n.jpg
 

guineafowl21

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Got it all rewired this afternoon, added ring terminals where needed and ferrules where i could; When i have the money i think ill replace all my machinery cable with this same stuff and make a 10/15m extension from it.
Once more thank you for all the help, been a great
View attachment 110739
You’re ok with 1.5mm2 flex for most shop machines. The 2.5 gives you plenty of headroom for that large motor, and will be fine if you ever find you need a blue 16A socket for the saw. It also has a big fat earth to keep your earth loop impedance low, even with the typically long lead a table saw needs because it’s out in the middle of the shop floor.
 
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