Myford ML8 removing pulleys from shaft.

[Bernuk1]

I recently bought an early ML8 (on advice from a friend who has one and reckoned that restoring this one would be a good project for getting into woodturning-I'm not so sure now )
I'm having trouble getting the shaft out so that I can change the drive belt.I've removed the locking collar and removed the 2 Allen screws from the pulley-the shaft will now rotate with the pulleys held still. I had assumed that the shaft would just pull out,but it seems not to be so
So,how do I get the shaft out ?

 

[graduate_owner]

I have a ML 8 and when I first bought it the drive belt was missing. I tried removing the spindle but without success, so bought a link belt instead. 35 years later the link belt is still going strong. I have read similar comments from others regarding this.
Good luck with your new toy. These are well built and were very expensive in their day - I have a 1985 price list showing £335 for the basic lathe ( about £700 at today's prices), £384 including rear turning kit and £252 for the cabinet stand, all plus VA T. The single phase motor was £80 and the push button starter £23. That gives you an idea of how it might compare in build quality to today's far East imports. They were made from the late 40's to mid 80's and were originally yellow, then silver, finally green. Mine came from a school and is yellow so it is an early model, probably older than me and I'm a pensioner, but still going strong ( the lathe, that is).

K

 

[Bernuk1]

I have a ML 8 and when I first bought it the drive belt was missing. I tried removing the spindle but without success, so bought a link belt instead. 35 years later the link belt is still going strong. I have read similar comments from others regarding this.
Good luck with your new toy. These are well built and were very expensive in their day - I have a 1985 price list showing £335 for the basic lathe ( about £700 at today's prices), £384 including rear turning kit and £252 for the cabinet stand, all plus VA T. The single phase motor was £80 and the push button starter £23. That gives you an idea of how it might compare in build quality to today's far East imports. They were made from the late 40's to mid 80's and were originally yellow, then silver, finally green. Mine came from a school and is yellow so it is an early model, probably older than me and I'm a pensioner, but still going strong ( the lathe, that is).

K

Mine too,is yellow with no serial number plate,so an early model.
I had read somewhere that link belts were noisy,how do you find yours ?
The original Push Button starter is missing,and,although I'd like to use original parts,I'm wondering if,where electrics are concerned,it might be better to fit a modern switch system ?
I too am a pensioner,I reckon I was about 10yrs old when this lathe was built

Mike.

 

[graduate_owner]

Hi Mike,
I don't find my Myford particularly noisy, certainly not a problem. It didn't have a belt on when I bought it so I can't compare with what a vee belt would sound like. I really did not fancy tapping the spindle any harder than I did to fit a continuous belt so I was quite happy to go for a link belt.
Regarding the starter, mine was fitted with a MEM NVOR starter which can be wired for single or 3 phase. You can get a push button On/Off switch from Axminster for about £18 if you don't have a switch.

I think the ML8 is a really well built lathe and should just go on and on. It is dated by comparison with today's machines having variable speed and swivelling headstocks, but I suspect some of these far East imports may not be still working in 60 - 70 year's time (especially those hobby lathes that Axminster sell - affordable and very nice but they have an expected usage of 100 hours a year). My only issue with the ML8 now is I have bought a Viceroy and a Graduate bowl lathe at prices I couldn't resist, so the Myford seems a bit small and I am thinking of selling it on. Shame really, it has been my companion for over 35 years and I feel quite attached to it. It was my first lathe, not counting a ghastly Black and Decker attachment that I was given. I also have a Myford M series metal lathe with the same spindle thread and I was thinking of keeping both Myfords to try out some sort of ornamental turning on the metal lathe using the chuck from the ML8 to hold the wood. However they may both have to go now as space is limited.

K

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I now have a Poolewood 28 - 40 with a reeves variable speed, which many turners say is noisy ... it's infinitely quieter than my old ML8 with a link belt. I would think any alternative to a link belt would be brilliant, no matter how much trouble.

 

[dickm]

It was my first lathe, not counting a ghastly Black and Decker attachment that I was given. I also have a Myford M series metal lathe with the same spindle thread and I was thinking of keeping both Myfords to try out some sort of ornamental turning on the metal lathe using the chuck from the ML8 to hold the wood. However they may both have to go now as space is limited.

+1 for the B&D attachment, but we still use a small platter I turned on it and it got me well on to the sloppery slip.

But surprised you say the ML8 and ML7 have the same spindle thread. I thought that the 8s had a smaller thread and it was only the Mystro that had the same thread as the 7 series (main reason for buying my Mystro!)

 

[okeydokey]

Hi
I have copied the next para from another post called
myford-ml8-bearings-need-to-be-changed-t70104.html
and have pasted the following plus the link just above - not sure if the link will work but you will be able to search in the forum and find it.

The headstock is pretty well put together. On the outboard side is a collar held in place with hex head grub screw. You need to undo the screws, then unscrew the collar. Similarly the belt pulley assembly is held in by grub screws. There may be double sets of screws, so after you remove one, check to see whether there is another underneath.
Once all the screws have been removed, you will be able to remove the end-plates from the head stock and slide the spindle shaft out from the inboard side.
Keep hold of the beld pulley or it will drop inside the housing.

My comment next

I'm stumped as to why you want to remove the spindle unless the belt is beyond use - if the bearings don't seem to have any issues then leave it along is my advice. Note that you will also need to slide the headstock off the tubular bed shaft to replace the belt. I have seen others recommend you buy a linked belt - you remove a link then simply put the belt around the pulleys and replace the link to make the belt whole again. good luck cheers

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You can iirc get a belt that can be cut to length and glued together - this would (I'd have thought) be quieter. If you rewire it it's good to have a mushroom switch at knee height in case you need to knock it off without taking your hands off something. The headstock on mine swivels, which was something that the designers forgot - when using it with it turned the on/off was not easily accessible. I got two switched cable outlets and put one half way along the front of the stand and the other at the end for long hole boring and fed the incoming power cable through them. Cheap and efficient, I've surprised myself how often I've used them instead of the main switch - an NVR (of course) which kicks out anyway.

 

[okeydokey]

Hi Phil
How did you modify to get the ML8 headstock to swivel or is it another lathe you are mentioning + in case of future need where can you get the cut and glue drive belts thanks ----- are you able to post a photo please as I would like to see how done.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

No, different lathe. It might have been a link through http://lathes.co.uk/ that I saw the belts - I never bought one as I sold the lathe, but was sorely tempted. Were you wanting a pic. of the belt (in which case I haven't got one) or the switching?

 

[graduate_owner]

Dickm - the Myford metal lathe I have is an M series but not the ML7, it's earlier than that. It is the Drummond type that Myford took over making in the 1940's. The thread is 1" x 8 tpi, same as the inboard on the ML8. I didn't know that when I bought it though, I just fancied getting a metal lathe thinking it would be useful. A short while later I had the chance of a nice Colchestsf Master so I bought tooling for that and have not used the Myford. However my plan now is either keep hoth Myfords and have a go at some very basic ornamental turning, or sell both Myfords. (5 lathes is a bit much).

K

 

[dickm]

Sorry for taking this off topic, but thanks for that bit of info, Gradowner. Good job I didn't know the Drummond matched the ML8 or I'd probably have kept it and looked for an ML8.............. along with the Super 7, so would still have needed the Mystro..............
But as you say, 5 lathes really would be too many

 

[Bernuk1]

Thanks for all the input guys =D> I've now decided to leave belt as is for now (it's quite good,just thought I'd change it whilst lathe was in bits) and have bought a link belt as a spare.

Now starting to rub everything down ready for painting.
I do need some locking levers but will probably have to have them made,unless anyone has some ?

Mike.

 

[okeydokey]

Hi Mike
You might be able to buy some on ebay but the spec for levers ---- the end that goes to the lathe is BSF (British Standard Fine) 5/ 16 x 22 tpi. If you threaded the other end with M6 you could buy ready made round plastic balls and screw on or just drill a hole in a round ball and glue it on. Or easier still leave a plain end, a ball on the end of the locking lever isn't necessary just a bit prettier

BTW B+Q sell round plain steel 8mm rod which is about 5/16th and could be used with a die to thread the end towards the lathe.
Hope this helps, regards

 

[HappyPixie]

When you say you want an original starter, do you mean one of these?

I removed it from my (inherited) ML8 because it needs quite particular manipulation of the green button to get the inner workings to latch and run. I'm not patient enough to refurb it so I replaced it with something shiny, yellow and plastic.

If you want it, you can have it. PM me and I'll figure out a way to get it to you.

Cheers

Steve

 

[graduate_owner]

I will agree with Okeydokey here. A complete Myford ML8 could be bought for probably less than £200, but if you look at the cost of bits then things take on a different value. I have seen people asking £50 for just a tailstock, £25 for a faceplate etc. You can't make a tailstock but you can make up parts like levers for just the cost of a die. I have "non - original" levers on mine, also a home made motor mounting plate and some of the outboard parts are also home made.

You have a well made machine there, dated and of limited capacity compared with some modern kit, but solid. I'm sure you will enjoy using it. If you get the chance, replace the motor with a 3 phase motor and get an inverter to provide a 3 phase supply. That will give you variable speed. An inverter for a 3/4 HP motor will cost about £150 (avoid the temptation to buy a cheap far east version) and you may be able to source a suitable second hand motor. However that is for the future.

K