Myford ML8 chuck
- Thread starter Lucas
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Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Welcome- bad news, it's a metal chuck so shouldn't be used on that lathe. You have plenty of options of chuck, though, Sorby, Axminster, Record, several more. Sorry if you already know, but if you put a bar through the spindle from the other side that drive centre will knock out (I assume that's why you ask if it's compatible?).
Hi Phil thanks for your fast answer.
I'm a decent DIY guy but I have zero experience with lathe. So don't worry, any precision is welcome
I'm looking for to turn a bamboo, intern diameter 70mm. So I was thinking this kind of chuck would be a good option.
What should I use then ?
I'm a decent DIY guy but I have zero experience with lathe. So don't worry, any precision is welcome
I'm looking for to turn a bamboo, intern diameter 70mm. So I was thinking this kind of chuck would be a good option.
What should I use then ?
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Something like http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-cl ... k-ax915228 or http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/s ... n/RPW61065
There are heaps, they crop up on ebay regularly - make sure you know the correct thread (outboard is different and left handed). As a complete beginner do yourself a favour and buy this - (or another) http://www.waterstonesmarketplace.com/W ... matches=40 It'll save you a load of money and maybe your fingers.
There are heaps, they crop up on ebay regularly - make sure you know the correct thread (outboard is different and left handed). As a complete beginner do yourself a favour and buy this - (or another) http://www.waterstonesmarketplace.com/W ... matches=40 It'll save you a load of money and maybe your fingers.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Outboard is the end of the spindle on the outside i.e. not over the bed. It will be left hand threaded as otherwise the chuck/faceplate would undo every time you switched it on. You don't really need that end for what you wish to do, just be aware that it is different.
Hi Phil, me again,
I just wanted to clarify what you said earlier, I'm not sure to understand this point :
"Sorry if you already know, but if you put a bar through the spindle from the other side that drive centre will knock out"
Cheers,
Lucas
I just wanted to clarify what you said earlier, I'm not sure to understand this point :
"Sorry if you already know, but if you put a bar through the spindle from the other side that drive centre will knock out"
Cheers,
Lucas
paulrockliffe
Established Member
On the ML8 it's also a different thread. I can't remember the details, but it's dead easy to find the TPI and diameter with google.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
I'm presuming by previous posts that you have zero knowledge. If you put a bar through the spindle, the drive centre - the bit with point and two wings outside the screw thread - if you give it a tap will drop out, allowing you to screw something onto the spindle.Lucas":1i6ubgci said:
graduate_owner
Established Member
The inboard side ( over the bed) is threaded 1" x 12 threads per inch ( tpi). The outboard side is threaded 7/8" x 12 tpi left hand. Myford made an early type of chuck but the holding options were limited and these days the more popular option is the 4 jaw self centreing scroll chuck because of its versatility - not cheap though. For information on the ML8, or on hundreds of other lathes etc, search lathes.co
For really useful information on work holding on the lathe, search for holding wood on the lathe youtube video by Mike Peace. It lasts for 1 1/2 hours and is very helpful with innovative ideas as well as standard practices. In fact you will find a mountain of information on youtube regarding all aspects of turning. Of course there will always be the occasional idiot on some sort of ego trip whose ideas are best avoided (like turning a 5 foot diameter bowl by fastening a half ton baulk of timber to the rear wheel of a truck on jacks, or someone chain sawing a bowl blank from a log and holding the log with his foot while wearing open toed sandals - I have seen both of these).
A good book is always an asset and Keith Rowley's is a well respected one. I bought mine from ebay for about £3, well worth it.
Now that you have the lathe, you can start spending serious money - good quality turning tools (and I mean GOOD quality, as cheap tools will ruin your enjoyment as well as the work you produce), work holding kit and tool sharpening kit (essential).
As a matter of interest the inboard thread matches up (almost, but close enough) with standard BSP pipe fittings so yoh can thread on one of these as a cup chuck.
Finally, if you get the chance to buy a metalworking chuck like the one you pictured, od a 3 jaw one at an affordable price then go for it. Not good for holding wood but very useful for holding home made items such as a pin chuck, or an arbor on which you could mount a wire wheel or grinding wheel (be careful here though, these can break apart so test first by listening for a clear ring when tapped, and ALWAYS wear eye protection or full face protection as you will not have a safety screen. Also cover the lathe bed with newspaper to keep abrasive grit off. I occasionally hold a home made wooden collet chuck in mine too, useful if I need to remove the work and replace accurately.
I have had my ML8 for over 30 years and although dated now, I think they are very well made machines that will easily outlast cheap Chaiwanese imports, and they certainly should since the basic version with no outboard turning cost £335 plus VAT in 1985, £385 including outboard turning. That is over £100 at today's prices.
K
For really useful information on work holding on the lathe, search for holding wood on the lathe youtube video by Mike Peace. It lasts for 1 1/2 hours and is very helpful with innovative ideas as well as standard practices. In fact you will find a mountain of information on youtube regarding all aspects of turning. Of course there will always be the occasional idiot on some sort of ego trip whose ideas are best avoided (like turning a 5 foot diameter bowl by fastening a half ton baulk of timber to the rear wheel of a truck on jacks, or someone chain sawing a bowl blank from a log and holding the log with his foot while wearing open toed sandals - I have seen both of these).
A good book is always an asset and Keith Rowley's is a well respected one. I bought mine from ebay for about £3, well worth it.
Now that you have the lathe, you can start spending serious money - good quality turning tools (and I mean GOOD quality, as cheap tools will ruin your enjoyment as well as the work you produce), work holding kit and tool sharpening kit (essential).
As a matter of interest the inboard thread matches up (almost, but close enough) with standard BSP pipe fittings so yoh can thread on one of these as a cup chuck.
Finally, if you get the chance to buy a metalworking chuck like the one you pictured, od a 3 jaw one at an affordable price then go for it. Not good for holding wood but very useful for holding home made items such as a pin chuck, or an arbor on which you could mount a wire wheel or grinding wheel (be careful here though, these can break apart so test first by listening for a clear ring when tapped, and ALWAYS wear eye protection or full face protection as you will not have a safety screen. Also cover the lathe bed with newspaper to keep abrasive grit off. I occasionally hold a home made wooden collet chuck in mine too, useful if I need to remove the work and replace accurately.
I have had my ML8 for over 30 years and although dated now, I think they are very well made machines that will easily outlast cheap Chaiwanese imports, and they certainly should since the basic version with no outboard turning cost £335 plus VAT in 1985, £385 including outboard turning. That is over £100 at today's prices.
K
graduate_owner
Established Member
Over £100?
I meant over £1000 at today's prices. I have an old price list so these are genuine figures. The stand was a further £252, 240 volt motor was £79 , and a push button starter box was £23. So for a lathe with motor etc, rear turning and a cabinet to sit on would have cost £738 plus VAT of around 12.5% giving a grand total of over £830. At today's prices that would be £2823 including VAT at 20%. That figure would buy a pretty high spec modern lathe.
At the time you could also buy a circular saw attachment (£223), bandsaw attachment (£272), a planer attachment (£278), thicknesser to go with planer (£66) and a mortising attachment (£220) with square mortising chisels at £25 each. Again all these prices are 1983 and plus VAT. They even made a compound slide for basic metal turning at £118. Serious stuff. So as I said, it is a dated but well made piece of kit which should go on for years.
K
I meant over £1000 at today's prices. I have an old price list so these are genuine figures. The stand was a further £252, 240 volt motor was £79 , and a push button starter box was £23. So for a lathe with motor etc, rear turning and a cabinet to sit on would have cost £738 plus VAT of around 12.5% giving a grand total of over £830. At today's prices that would be £2823 including VAT at 20%. That figure would buy a pretty high spec modern lathe.
At the time you could also buy a circular saw attachment (£223), bandsaw attachment (£272), a planer attachment (£278), thicknesser to go with planer (£66) and a mortising attachment (£220) with square mortising chisels at £25 each. Again all these prices are 1983 and plus VAT. They even made a compound slide for basic metal turning at £118. Serious stuff. So as I said, it is a dated but well made piece of kit which should go on for years.
K
