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My New Table Saw - a KING KC-10RC

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Oaktree11

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I have just bought a replacement for my Makita 2704. I used to have an Axminster AW10 and had to sell it because I just couldn’t fit it into my workshop. I have more room now and I have been missing the solidity of a cast iron topped saw. Impulsive as ever I saw this and bought it does anyone know anything about them? It’s made in Taiwan for King but the quality looks high And it has been unused for 25 years but kept well.
I will strip it and rebuild.
John
 

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TRITON

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Looks very solid, and the arbor is long maybe for a set of dado blades. The wide slot seems to suggest this, but plenty of room to get a hand in to undo the bolt.
How is it running ?
 

recipio

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Well done. Is that a 5/8 " arbour ? You may have to shop around for blades but it looks like it will take a dado set. ?
 

Oaktree11

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I collect it tomorrow. Yes, it is a 5/8” arbour and the online manual I have seen indicates it will take a dado stack AND a moulding head. Not sure how I feel about that but it’s good to know. I will report back when I have it.
As an aside, it’s about a 300m round trip which will be the longest I have done in my electric Hyundai Kona. Should be interesting! I love the fact that I can get it into a car.
john
 

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TRITON

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With everything from standard blade to dado to moulding head, its just a matter of arranging a guard to cover the top of the cutter.
 

Oaktree11

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With everything from standard blade to dado to moulding head, its just a matter of arranging a guard to cover the top of the cutter.
Yes, that might be interesting but clearly essential, may need some help!
 

Nick Laguna UK

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I like old machines & it looks solid for what it is (obviously an import) - the 60Hz on the rating plate (yup alongside the Canada badge) gives that away.
But just be aware 60Hz motor will run 20% slower - that also means fan is 20% less effective at cooling.
We are 50Hz in UK.
Not saying that it will be an issue, but just a heads up.
Cheers, Nick.
 

Oaktree11

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I like old machines & it looks solid for what it is (obviously an import) - the 60Hz on the rating plate (yup alongside the Canada badge) gives that away.
But just be aware 60Hz motor will run 20% slower - that also means fan is 20% less effective at cooling.
We are 50Hz in UK.
Not saying that it will be an issue, but just a heads up.
Cheers, Nick.
Thanks Nick, yes I was aware of the speed reduction but hadn’t thought of cooling. I might just change the motor it’s rWally simple on this machine. It needs Re wiring and an NVR switch and an emergency switch fitting anyway.
any suggestions for a suitable 2hp motor welcome
 
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Oaktree11

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Well, 300 mile round trip and I have it. no problems with the car or charging so a good day all round!
it IS very solid and very simple. Both of which I like. The table surface is flat as are the extension wings. The arbour spins really freely and no movement in the bearings. It’s all a bit dry and surface rusty so I think its probably bes to strip it right down and rebuild. It clearly has not had a lot of use. The previous owner bought it 25 years ago in Canada and moved here with it.
 

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Jameshow

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Looks like the early Axminster model I have at men's shed.

Naerok ones look similar too early badge engineering?!

Cheers James
 

Oaktree11

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I think, like today, these were imported and badged as many different machines. From what I have seen the quality is much higher and beefier than the Chineseum modern ones I have seen. Interestingly, a Canadian friend tells me that King are not generally regarded for high end equipment now But they were back in the day.
 

Mooose

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Looks very similar to my table saw and a good bet that it was made by Mao Shan in Taiwan. I have upgraded mine very successfully and find that it does everything I could ever need.

 

Oaktree11

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Looks very similar to my table saw and a good bet that it was made by Mao Shan in Taiwan. I have upgraded mine very successfully and find that it does everything I could ever need.

Yes, I think that you are bang on. Having examined it I am confident that it is a really good base for a table saw in a small workshop like mine which will produce very accurate results.
 

Mooose

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If you are going to replace the motor consider replacing the belt with a flexible link belt (see here - Link Belting for Power Transmission | Fenner Drives). I know that some have different opinions but I found it to be great at dampening vibrations and the saw runs quieter too. I coupled this with a thin kerf blade from Freud (P410T) and it cuts through wood like butter.
 

Oaktree11

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If you are going to replace the motor consider replacing the belt with a flexible link belt (see here - Link Belting for Power Transmission | Fenner Drives). I know that some have different opinions but I found it to be great at dampening vibrations and the saw runs quieter too. I coupled this with a thin kerf blade from Freud (P410T) and it cuts through wood like butter.
Moose, thank you for that recommendation which I will follow, it will certainly need another belt and I have used this type of belt before with great success. Thanks. John
 

Oaktree11

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Ok more progress. i Have stripped the casing from the machine and exposed the mechanisms. I am even more impressed now. It’s all really simple and well built. The previous owner from new told me he doesn’t think it has worked more than 10 hours in total and looking at him I believe him.
Dilemma. Do I completely strip it as originally planned and fully recon or do I not fix what ain’t broke, clean all the surface rust off and lubricate and leave well alone. The arbour bearings appear rock solid and spin really freely. I can reach all the gears, teeth etc to clean them. What do you think? I am leaning to the ‘leave well alone’ approach.
I am thinking that maybe I will build this into a bench at some stage…
john
 

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