My first time!

[HeliGav]

Hi folks fairly new to the forum, went axeminister ther other day and took the plunge, brought a jet 1220, managed get a price mat and get 70 quid off the internet price, got the sk100 chuck and a set of axeminister turning tools set ( not the best quality but good enough until i decide on buying better ones individually) ive been in the workshop today and had ago at turning a couple of vases that turned into candle stick things, semi impressed with my first attempts, used pine, did struggle get wood fine with sandinding got a few lines after waxing, did grit down to around 240 (sponge type pads) just going have keep practicing, do yo think if a sand seal sand twice id get a finer finish, and advice would be great and thanks again guys!

 

[HeliGav]

Like if you look at the one on the left you can see bands ? Any idea, not exactly sure what went wrong used Fiddes And sons wax called stripped pine on bare wood.

 

[CHJ]

Bands:-
Your tools are not sharp enough and you are tearing/pulling the fibre strands not cutting cleanly, this can reach several mm into the piece so is hard to remove once created. May be compounded with bruising from the heal of the bevel from too much pressure.

Like a wet shave with a blunt razor.

On the next attempt soak the surface in sanding sealer just before the last few cuts to lubricate and swell the wood fibres to add support.

If you don't have sealer try with finishing oil or just plain water.

Be prepared to sand with the piece stationary and always finish by sanding with the grain where possible, that way any residual scratches won't be more pronounced/visible than the wood structure.

 

[Harry 48]

Hi not bad for a first try pine is not the best for turning the softer the wood the sharper your tools need to be when sanding don't move to the next grit until all the tool marks are gone then move up through the grits any marks you leave will come back to haunt when you put the finish on

 

[WoodySteve]

Well done on your 1st turn

 

[HeliGav]

Thanks for the quick replies! Looking to get my tools sharpened. Was at axeminister in nuneaton the other day when they had turning on. I saw the tormek system for sharpening tools with the jigs, also seen the similar model from record power. Does anyone sharpen there own tools or do you just take them to be sharpened somewhere, can anyone recommend a system with jigs for sharpening, preferably of a reasonable price! Thanks.

 

[CHJ]

You do not need to spend a fortune, a decent bench grinder with preferrably a wide White Oxide wheel will get you going.
This sort of thing is adequate
Together with simple home made tool rests for starters.

Turning tools need sharpening on a very regular basis, often several times for every piece.

I'm still using this basic setup from when I first started.

 

[duncanh]

It's completely clear from the photo - it's not recommended to just put the metal t-light holders straight onto wood as they can generate quite a bit of heat. Aldi sell glass holders quite cheaply (although when I went they only had fairly wide ones)

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Firstly...great first piece.

My advice would be:

1/ Use hardwood, they're more dense and finish better than softwoods
2/ Sharp tools absolutely critical coupled with a light touch at the finishing cuts
3/ Get those sanding pads, mount them in a drill and power sand through the grits
4/ Do use a sanding sealer (try cellulose first as its fast drying) and de-nib after first coat
5/ finish with a clear beeswax or similar and watch some finishing techniques etc to lock into the techniques

But above all else, two things. Just plain practice to develop tool skill and solve the sharpening issue. You cant turn effectively without sharp tools so you must own a grinder.

I'll look forward to seeing future pieces

 

[HeliGav]

Been out and got a pretty good selection of sandpaper, made another small piece today sanded up to 400, very smooth after compared to my originals. Set about waxing again, still finding I have bands when i put the finish on. Think this might be the wax quite old and separated slightly to liquid, just hadn't thought about it before as never applied wax finishes before . Is it possible to over polish and burn the wax that could cause different colour rings, pretty sure its not tool marks as i went a bit OCD with the sandpaper, might try some different finishes any ideas, I've seen a wax bar called liberon i think in axeminister today, also got some glass tea light holders from ikea really cheap, small and large sized. Ill keep practicing on pine at the moment, seen some of the hardwoods are expensive and dont want waste money. Should hopefully have a few small logs soon though birch, oak, chestnut i think as my others halfs boss is cutting some trees back!

 

[HeliGav]

Also got the keith rowley a foundation course book, looks good so going have a read! Should help!

 

[blackrodd]

Thanks for the quick replies! Looking to get my tools sharpened. Was at axeminister in nuneaton the other day when they had turning on. I saw the tormek system for sharpening tools with the jigs, also seen the similar model from record power. Does anyone sharpen there own tools or do you just take them to be sharpened somewhere, can anyone recommend a system with jigs for sharpening, preferably of a reasonable price! Thanks.

There's a video on sharpening here from u tube named Franz. Have a look at that.
If you get a grinder, the 80 to 120 grit abrasive wheels supplied by some, are too fine and will blue and burn the steel. Get a carborundum wheel "dresser" and keep the wheel shape and clean.
60 grit is ideal and keep the feel and "Action" as franz says.
In the days when White hill spindle blocks were king, as an apprentice, I was taught to make cutters from a 30" length of high speed steel from a firm called Drabble and sanders, we would cut this from up to 3" wide lengths.
By Freehand (Not allowed to use a rest) grind the shape and then the cutting angle, in pairs and then, using a balance get the pair a matching weight. Had to look, and be an almost perfect pair! we had to match any possible shape a customer required, From a side handrail, ex 3"x 2", built up skirtings, victorian shopfronts. etc etc. Sometimes we would use two White hill blocks, spaced apart, for a pair of cutters. sharpening is, like most things, about practice, practice, practice. Regards rodders

 

[winemaker]

Very nice =D>