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Multico B2 Planer Restoration with pictures

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SkinnyB

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Picked up this Multico B2 Planer on Ebay.
Thought I would document the progress as with my Multico TH1

Its a 6" Planer, 3/4 hp, Reasonably good condition. Mostly just needs a clean up.

List of jobs:
Complete strip down
De-grease
Paint strip
Paint
Polish tables and fence.
Add dust extraction
Reassembly
Blade setting
Tuning




To get the chip breaker out there are to threaded holes in which insert a screw which forces the chip breaker out. Handy as it was firmly stuck.


Cutter block removed.



Table removal time! Look at all the chip build up. No wonder the table adjustment was stiff.




The pins that attach to the parallelogram were stuck solid. Soaked in wd40 penetrant over night and with some heavy hitting manage to free them.


Back to the cutter block. I tried to pull off the bearings. Wouldn't budge. Rather than damage anything I cleaned out the old grease and cleaned everything ready for painting.




Paint stripping time. Used sinstrip and then used a pressure washer to clean off the loose paint.


Dirt and grime removed ready for stripping.

Paint removal.


Small parts ready to be painted. Im using grey primer the black gloss spray paint.




Table polishing time. I started with 120 grit paper and went down to 320 using my GEX 150 Currently unwaxed as it may get scratched or marked when reassembling. Will do this later.

Before

After



Polishing metal to metal contact with paint remover pad on angle grinder. Then spraying with clear coat to prevent future rusting.


Motor ready to paint.

Painted.


Masked and ready to paint.


Polishing steel pins using a lathe. Wet and dry paper from 320 to 1200. Some marks/stains were to deep to clean up so will have to live with them.


After




Paint time! Hammerite Blue Smooth. Was wanting to go down the epoxy route but for sake of cost and time just went with hammerite. Little learning curve in using it but got there in the end. I found a very light initial coat followed by another a couple of hours later worked the best. Trying to get coverage on one coat just left me with runs. Roller applied for the large flat area.




Polishing the bare metal parts.


Sat all the Imperial screws and fixing in de-greaser and cleaned up.


Reassemble time. Got the motor in and started wiring the switches. I have gone with a rotary switch for isolation of the machine. A DOL starter switch and a mushroom emergency foot switch.




Reassembly of the parallelogram mechanism IMG_1841

Now to sort out the dust extraction. Currently there is a chute in which the chip fall out from. I want to modernise it a little.
I have 3d printed a funnel in which fits inside the machine and connects to a 100mm tube.






Installed using sealant as the surrounding walls are cast iron and no other easy fixing available.



Painted blue.


Now I need to look at the other end. The chute exit is 150x200mm so it needs to be quite big.
Im going to laser cut some plastic in which a 3d printed 45 degree 100mm can attach to.



Pieces cut.


45 adapter in place.


Fits like so. Now I was going to sealant the tube in but if I wanted to remove the base for transport it would restrict that. So its just slid over the adapter which works well.




Blades freshly sharpened using my 3d printed blade sharpener.


Needed a planer blade setting jig so 3d printer and dial indicator the the rescue.



Fence set to 90.


And there she is! Pretty much all done. Im getting a slight curve in the jointed face over 1m. aprox 0.7mm over that distance so need to adjust the outfeed table. Need to clean up the tables again as they are covered in grime again.

Before:
[/url
After:
[url=https://flic.kr/p/28noktp]



 

sammy.se

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Very cool! I really enjoyed reading that!!! And it's a good job, well done.

Can you tell us more about the electrical switches you fitted? I've been wanting to add a foot switch to my axi table saw (which had an nvr)

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SkinnyB

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Thanks! Sure can. Hopefully I'm allowed to link so here are the ones I fitted:
So the switch is rated to the motor make sure you choose the correct amperage.
ELECTRIC MOTOR STARTER DIRECT ONLINE DOL SINGLE PHASE

My planer runs on a 13amp supply. I had a few 16amp rotary switches around so used those. But would have brought one like I have linked 32amp.
Rotary switch

Emergency foot switch: Pretty simple to wire. Im no electrician just so you are aware.... Just needs to go in-between the supply coming from the mains and the NVR switch. So when the button is pressed it cuts the power and the NVR is triggered. So I have the live wire coming into the emergency switch then the live wire goes out to the NVR. Hope that makes sense.

Ill get a picture closer up and try to explain it a little more if you want. Took me a while to get meh head around it myself!

EMAS E-Stop P1C400E72 Enclosed 72mm Emergency Stop c/w 1 N/C Contact Block
 

SkinnyB

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Hopefully this simple wiring diagram will help.

Image removed due to incorrect setup. Will update once I have rewired as suggested.
 

sammy.se

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SkinnyB":ymta2dd9 said:
Hopefully this simple wiring diagram will help.

Great, thanks! Simpler than I thought...

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mikefab

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Nice job on the restoration of the machine. Really nice.

With regard to wiring the emergency stop switch, your method isn't quite conventional. It is not normal to run the full motor current through the control switches. It may be ok in this instance as the motor is quite small and the currents won't be huge but could be dangerous on a bigger machine. The control wiring unusually much smaller than the supply wiring e.g. 0.75mm. Obviously I don't know what your e stop is rated at.

Here is a link to a helpful wiring diagram for wiring 3 phase DOL starters with remote start and stops. You just need to ignore 2 of the live phases to make this work for single phase. The contactors in a single phase DOL are often 3 phase anyway.

schneider DOL wiring diagram

Basically the remote stop switch goes between terminal A2 (on the coil) and 96 (on the thermal overload). If this circuit is momentarily broken the coil is de-energised and the contactor opens killing power to the machine.

Hope this doesn't detract from your great restoration thread but just wanted to correct some potentially dangerous information.

Mike
 

deema

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Mike raises good points, to add to what he has said, you should never connect an e-stop in the manner suggested as besides the issue Mike raises, if the live and neutral get wired the wrong way around (happens more often than you believe) an earth fault can stop the e-stop from functioning completely. For this reason you should always connect through the DOL as shown in Mikes link.
 

MattRoberts

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Excellent job, must be so satisfying! Great work on the dust extraction, as a thought: why not use a straight pipe instead of ridged flexi hose though? Would improve performance, albeit slightly.

I've got a 3d printer on my list of things to get for just this reason - which one do you have?
 

SkinnyB

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Thanks for the heads up on the bad wiring! Sorry!
Thanks for the helpful links. Hopefully now I have wired it correctly. I have it wired as below. I did some research and for 240 single phase it seems that it is a good idea to loop the neutral so that the "three poles are monitored for over current".

Does it matter what wire goes through the coil? Live or Neutral?

I have have my machine wired like this: (Hope its correct this time!)


Thanks!
 

SkinnyB

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MattRoberts":1o28lm6j said:
Excellent job, must be so satisfying! Great work on the dust extraction, as a thought: why not use a straight pipe instead of ridged flexi hose though? Would improve performance, albeit slightly.

I've got a 3d printer on my list of things to get for just this reason - which one do you have?

Thanks!
Regarding the pipe. Your right a solid tube would have been best for the extraction. I just used what I had on hand really! With the flex pipe i have a little more room for error and 'flexibility' getting the two sides to align.

I have a Wanhao i3 Plus. Approx 200mm print size in all directions. Im surprised how much I use it now. You will find a lot of uses for it!
 

SkinnyB

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I was having excessive vibrations when running the machine. Time to investigate!

First problem i saw was the lower pulley that is attached to the motor was at an odd angle.


It turned out there are two pivot points in which the motor can pivot off. Seems I had it high on one side and low on the other! Easy fix just need to put the bolt in the other hole.


Then I noticed the pulleys were not in line so clamped a straight edge to the lower fully and adjusted it in and out until the pulleys were in one with each other.




After that I adjusted the belt tension so the belt is looser. Fixed all of the vibration problem thankfully. Probably be best once it is bolted to the floor anyway.
 

deema

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Wiring now looks great. Good job.

I would check the motor bearings particularly the bearing nearest the pulley. Chances are that it is in need of replacement if your still getting vibration.
 

George w

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Hi,
I was wondering how the tables detach from the machine ? Are there large pins or bolts?

Thanks
 

SkinnyB

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Hi,
I was wondering how the tables detach from the machine ? Are there large pins or bolts?

Thanks
The attach by large pins going through one side of the tables to the other. You can see a picture of me hammering them out early in the post. If you look at the finished machine there are holes in the side of the tables. These are where the pins go through and join the parralelgram mechanism together.

Before you remove the pins you need to remove the adjustment handles under the machine. These are a royal pain to remove.
 

George w

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The attach by large pins going through one side of the tables to the other. You can see a picture of me hammering them out early in the post. If you look at the finished machine there are holes in the side of the tables. These are where the pins go through and join the parralelgram mechanism together.

Before you remove the pins you need to remove the adjustment handles under the machine. These are a royal pain to remove.

Great thanks, I will attempt that. I am restoring one currently.
Are their pins in the handles too? Or do they unscrew.
Thanks
 
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