MRMDF built-in/fitted wardrobe design! Comments please!

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Winston Todge

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Hi all,

Having only posted a few times and received some great input, I was hoping I could some input on my proposed design?

I've spent a few weeks planning how I'm going to replace our lovely solid pine wardrobes with something a little more space efficient and have come up with the following...

SketchUp Screenie.PNG


I'm going to make the cabinets our of 18mm MRMDF cut to size by Avon Plywood in Bristol...

Quote.PNG


- Does this quote seem sensible? The chap who answered seemed efficient and was super quick to quote!

I'm going to use 6mm backs attached to the rear of the cabinets with the cabs themselves being held together with size 20 biscuits, Spax 50mm MDF screws from Screwfix and a good quality PVA.

- Do people tend to use Spax MDF screws to hold the backs on? Or pin them on?

- Is it worth getting the backs slightly under-size or the same dimension as the area of the back?

I'll then make some plinths that I'll level up using wedges and then hold in place with small off-cuts of MDF and L brackets to the floor boards.

- Is the size of the MDF off-cut important here? It seems like this is the norm to level a plinth up? I was curious about the contact patch (and therefore size of this chock) if the whole load of the wardrobe goes through it?

I'll then attach the cabinets to the plinths using screws and then each cab together using screws.

The cabinets will then be attached to the wall at the top using L brackets.

- Is screwing the cabinet down to the plinth and at the top to the wall using L brackets enough to stabilise the whole structure? Is it worth adding brackets to the sides of the cabinets too? How would these fit in if it's designed to only have around 10mm clearance either side of the cabinets?

I'm then going to be making the doors with 6mm panels and 100mm by 22mm rails and stiles.

- Is it worth putting another rail a third or so up the height of the door? Or is it strong enough as it is?

I'll be using a 6.4mm slotting cutter around 10mm deep into the rails and stiles and then probably route a small tenon into each rail to sit inside the rail slot.

- Is the general consensus that a small tenon routed into the stile sufficient? Or is the 'loose tenon' method simpler/stronger/easier to assemble?

The doors will then be hung using concealed 110 degree 'Euro' hinges.

- Is a standard Forstner 35mm bit sufficient here? Or is it worth getting a proper 35mm hinge sinking bit? Like this....?

Trend hinge tool.PNG


- Is there anything that I need to be aware of hanging doors that effects the finish of the whole build? Or is it all adjustable on the hinges themselves?

- I was thinking 4 hinges for the longer doors? Is 3 okay or is 4 worthwhile?

- I was going to biscuit joint the shelves in place, but have been thinking of dowelling lots of small holes into the sides of the cabinets so they are adjustable? And then I can add the shelves after the main cabinet construction.

- What's the process for adjustable dowels, holes and pegs? Just routing loads of holes up the sides? Any jigs/tools or advice if I were going to do this? Should I make the shelf widths 2 to 3mm thinner than the total width of the cab?

- If the gap between the cabinet and the wall is small enough, can you just caulk up the side or is it relatively standard to just cut a thin strip and glue it in place? Or some quadrant beading or similar?


I think that's it for now... Sorry for all the questions!

Any input would be massively appreciated.

Ta,

Chris.
 

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Winston Todge":1o45q662 said:
Hi all,

Having only posted a few times and received some great input, I was hoping I could some input on my proposed design?

I've spent a few weeks planning how I'm going to replace our lovely solid pine wardrobes with something a little more space efficient and have come up with the following...



I'm going to make the cabinets our of 18mm MRMDF cut to size by Avon Plywood in Bristol...



- Does this quote seem sensible? The chap who answered seemed efficient and was super quick to quote!
Seems OK - I pay a bit less for 18mm (~£20/sheet) and a bit more for 6mm & 22mm ( ~£12.50 & £36) in London. Not sure why the list includes some 3050 x 1220 boards though - from what I can see there's nothing longer than 1700mm on your drawing?? Cutting charge seems a bit steep, though obviously we haven't seen the cutlist...

I'm going to use 6mm backs attached to the rear of the cabinets with the cabs themselves being held together with size 20 biscuits, Spax 50mm MDF screws from Screwfix and a good quality PVA.

- Do people tend to use Spax MDF screws to hold the backs on? Or pin them on?

- Is it worth getting the backs slightly under-size or the same dimension as the area of the back?
I use staples, backs the same size as the carcass.

I'll then make some plinths that I'll level up using wedges and then hold in place with small off-cuts of MDF and L brackets to the floor boards.

- Is the size of the MDF off-cut important here? It seems like this is the norm to level a plinth up? I was curious about the contact patch (and therefore size of this chock) if the whole load of the wardrobe goes through it?

I'll then attach the cabinets to the plinths using screws and then each cab together using screws.

The cabinets will then be attached to the wall at the top using L brackets.

- Is screwing the cabinet down to the plinth and at the top to the wall using L brackets enough to stabilise the whole structure? Is it worth adding brackets to the sides of the cabinets too? How would these fit in if it's designed to only have around 10mm clearance either side of the cabinets?
MDF offcuts are fine, as long as they're a reasonable size and directly onto the floorboards; if the weight is going to be significant you can put more in to spread the load. Carcass screwed to the plinth through the base and to the wall at the top is usually enough.


I'm then going to be making the doors with 6mm panels and 100mm by 22mm rails and stiles.

- Is it worth putting another rail a third or so up the height of the door? Or is it strong enough as it is?

I'll be using a 6.4mm slotting cutter around 10mm deep into the rails and stiles and then probably route a small tenon into each rail to sit inside the rail slot.

- Is the general consensus that a small tenon routed into the stile sufficient? Or is the 'loose tenon' method simpler/stronger/easier to assemble?
Two rails on a 1700 door is strong enough, centre rail looks better IHMO; also a deeper bottom rail looks good. I've always used loose tenons with a ~20mm groove. Upon reading another thread here, I seem to be unusual in doing this...

The doors will then be hung using concealed 110 degree 'Euro' hinges.

- Is a standard Forstner 35mm bit sufficient here? Or is it worth getting a proper 35mm hinge sinking bit? Like this....?

I've always used a 35mm hinge bit, bought cheaply and disposed of when blunt.

- Is there anything that I need to be aware of hanging doors that effects the finish of the whole build? Or is it all adjustable on the hinges themselves?

- I was thinking 4 hinges for the longer doors? Is 3 okay or is 4 worthwhile?

3 should be plenty on doors of that size.

- I was going to biscuit joint the shelves in place, but have been thinking of dowelling lots of small holes into the sides of the cabinets so they are adjustable? And then I can add the shelves after the main cabinet construction.

- What's the process for adjustable dowels, holes and pegs? Just routing loads of holes up the sides? Any jigs/tools or advice if I were going to do this? Should I make the shelf widths 2 to 3mm thinner than the total width of the cab?
Shelf pin templates are widely available - I used a Rutlands one for a long time, went all-in on a Festool LR32 system earlier in the year, which works well and is faster, though obviously has a cost attached. I usually make Internal shelves on pins ~4mm less than the width of the carcass, though this does depend on the shelf pins you're using.


- If the gap between the cabinet and the wall is small enough, can you just caulk up the side or is it relatively standard to just cut a thin strip and glue it in place? Or some quadrant beading or similar?[/b]

I think that's it for now... Sorry for all the questions!

Any input would be massively appreciated.

Ta,

Chris.
10mm between the wall and the carcass is pretty tight; I usually allow ~25mm per side to allow for wonky walls etc, then scribe a 6mm infill piece to cover this, or with face-frames, run an end panel back to the wall.

HTH, Pete
 
Brill! Thanks for the input Pete.

My cutlist looks like this! I'm going to place the order tonight.

I've also got myself a 35mm 1/2inch hinge bit off ebay for 8 quid and a £2 hinge cutting jig.

The screws have now turned up at Screwfix, so I've only got a single 48" sash clamp to go and then I'm ready to start.

I'll post some WIP pictures as I go.

Thanks again,

Chris.
 

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Winston Todge":36ggxtq2 said:
My cutlist looks like this...
Ah, OK. Getting them to cut all your loose tenons and all the rails and stiles is where the costs will hit you, as they generally charge per cut. I get my yard to rip a sheet of 22mm into 100/80/65/whatever_mm strips for the rails and stiles and chop them to length myself. The loose tenons are usually made from offcuts, just rip ~44mm strips down and cut them to length as required.

Cheers, Pete
 
Avonplywood charge 50p per metre @ .2mm accuracy. Very very good service. They will label everything too if you ask, 15p per label. Use them all the time.
They owner loves his machines....£100k
 
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