First off, it's "microbore" either 10mm or 8mm. Getting the banter right helps with snotty plumbers' merchants.
Second, how old is the house? might it have plastic plumbing?
Assuming it's microbore, doing it without grief is really easy: you just need the right tools and they aren't expensive. Use an external bending spring of the right size. measure its length, and make two marks on the pipe, one for the middle of the bend, and one half the spring length along, to position the spring.
Bend to slightly more angle than you need then back to the correct shape. That way the spring slides off easily. always cut it with a small tube cutter, not a hacksaw - it stops swarf getting into the pipe and the boiler. For an easy life, oil the moving parts of the cutter, so it rolls and doesn't scuff. If you get a bend wrong, you can correct it a bit, but not much. If it's vital to re-make a bend, you can anneal the pipe by heating it with a blowlamp and then letting it cool gently - no quenchng needed or anything complicated.
Do soldered joints, don't attempt compression fittings. The microbore pipe is very soft and you can squash it easily. I prefer to buy 15mm radiator fittings, as they're cheaper and there's a better range of choice. I fit the compression olive on a 15-10 (or 15-8) reducer right next to the rad, so the drop pipe is 10mm. it looks neater, IMHO. End-feed fittings (the sort without solder in them) are really cheap, so get some, and some leaded solder (you don't need or want lead-free in this application), and practice. Propane blowlamps work far better than butane, especially if you can't dry the pipe completely - propane can boil off excess water, butane isn't hot enough. MAPP gas is best of all, but although I like it, many DIY people think it's too hot.
If you have to seal off a microbore end, it's OK to squash it flat with Mole grips and fold it, then flux and solder across the squashed end, BUT the pipe really needs to be dry for this as any water will stop it sealing (steam blows holes through the molten solder!). It's best to arrange for the stub to point slightly downwards, so it fills and doesn't trap air.
There's a knack to unrolling new pipe off the coil: I prefer to do it on carpet, hold the coil roughly vertical, stand gently on the loose end and push the coil down towards the floor as I unwind away from me. It's easier with two people for long lengths - one holding the end down, one unwinding.. If you keep the coil vertical and unwind in a straight line, you get straight pipe!
Finally, for neatness, if you have a wooden floor with space underneath, hang the rad first, then plumb up to it. I fit the valves temporarily, and drop a plumbline down to get exact positions on the floor for the holes. If you buy 22 or 28mm lagging, you can often insulate both flow and return pipe in the same lagging tube - it all helps avoid heat loss.
Hope some of that is useful!
E.
PS: When taking the rads off, have a couple of fittings ready to bang on the open radiator ends, while you move them outside. For the thermostatic end, you probably only need a 22mm nut and a 2p piece shoved in it, and some goo (I prefer Bosswhite for sealing things up, used with PTFE tape, but am getting used to PTFE in a toothpaste tube, also good). For the other end you need a 15mm compression fitting, with a blanked-off bit of pipe in the other side. Radiators always collect iron oxide of one type or the other (brown or black goo), and it ruins carpets. Sealing them up temporarily means you can concentrate on moving them outside, without worrying about leaving a trail. So buy two compression fittings: 1x22mm straight (to get the nut), and 1x15mm for the 'lockshield valve' end. You may need B+Q for this as merchants tend to sell all fittings in lots of 10 or more.
Have lots of cloths and old towels and ice cream tubs or bowls available to pack round the pipes, too.