Model ship build

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I just read your last post Ian and was about to reply when I saw that Gerry had beaten me to it (above). Another aeromodeller (ex in my case) and I "+1" his comments 100%. Cyano definitely does have its place, especially in the sort of "bulwark" situation you described!
 
Thanks VERY much, guys.
I used some in the past, with a different model, and bought some cheap versions, and it really wasn't performing well. The stuff I used for the front this time was very thick (Gorilla) and therefore wasn't appropriate, in retrospect.

The accelerant I used was also not great.
I think a trip to a pucker model shop will be worth while, and bin my cheap rubbish.
Thanks again.
 
Having built a (plastic) model ship in the past I can appreciate the effort and patience going into this, thank you for taking us along with you.
 
Yeah, despite comments I've read to the contrary here, there IS a difference in the "super glues" in my own experience. Personally I like the product branded "UHU" which is by the German chemicals company Henkel who also make Persil detergent (although that like may well be at least partly because it's one I come across easily here. But it does work).

A couple of tips you may find useful: 1. there IS a place for the "jelly" type (usually called "GEL"). It's the thick stuff and doesn't "wick" into joints by capillary action and is slower to set off without accelerator: 2. You will have a useful glue "armoury" when these 2 cyanos are added to "normal" PVA, very thin PVA, and aliphatic (the stuff that dries a custardy yellow): 3. buy the cyanos in the smallest tubes/bottles you can find (1 mg tubes are good if you can get them, rather than the more common 4 mg). It's more expensive but unopened bottles/tubes die much less quickly: 4. store all your cyanos in the fridge, that prolongs shelf life: 5. have a few thin pins around for unblocking nozzles (WHY on earth most cyanos will NOT stick most plastics but have plastic nozzles that block permanently at the slightest provocation I don't know!!): 6. you can often apply cyano to a joint with a very thin piece of stiff wire, or a toothpick, rather than using the nozzle to squirt direct into the joint: 7. In certain circumstances it is possible to undo some cyano joints. Hot water (if possible) helps, and remember that peel strength is limited in all cyanos. (But I see few opportunities for such tricks in your model)! But at least it well help you get the dried stuff off your fingers (!), as will acetone BTW (MOST nail varnish removers).

Hope that helps, and ain't teaching granny to suck eggs. Keep up the good work. I've never built a boat before but am much enjoying this WIP. Thanks for posting.,
 
So, now its time to apply the first (yes first) layer of planks on the outside of the ribs of the boat.

One side the left / port) is to be fully planked, the other (starboard / right) has an open section.
Of course it would help if I had known my right from my left, or rather, judged it whilst looking forward rather than backwards, but hey, only wasted 3 planks - grrr.

So, the planks are a rather soft wood, 5x2mm, but as provided, can't be bent. So the plans call for the wood to be soaked in water for an extended time (30 minutes +) after which the planks can be quite easily bent in both directions (both sideways and back to front - so to speak). Not very easy to soak 40cm strips mind you. I didn't have anything long enough, horizontally or vertically. In the end, I sealed the end of a length of mains conduiting (lozenge cross section) with hot glue, filled that with water, and then put the wood in there. Worked a treat.

So, one can use super glue, but because the kit is provided was 100s of small brass pins, I prefer to nail the wood to the rib, and stick using PVA glue. more forgiving and less messy to clear up. Although PVA with wet wood wasn't great, but the pins hold it in place fine.

So, here are the first few attached to the open side. You can see the small pins on each rib. its really rather satisfying knocking them in but the hammer was overkill, and holding them at the right angle with pliers was not easy. In the end I realized that with such soft wood, you can push them into the planks holding them in the pliers and then knock them all the way with the flat part of the pliers. No tool change - much easier.

072a - Starting planking.jpg


You can see on the next picture, where the planks start to head off in different directions as the hull curves.

072b - Planking mc plank face.jpg



Working up to the bulwarks, and down some of the way.
073 - the solid side.jpg


Working on the side with the opening, the plans call for quite accurate placement of the planks at the edge of the holes. So marking on the ribs and laying the planks accurately seems to be important. Also enjoying using my new little clamps there.
074a - planks.jpg


Getting the wood to curve around the front wasn't easy, especially when filling in 'wedge' pieces, where there wasn't enough width to use nails all the way along. Also ending lengths on ribs, and trying to end the curve smoothly isn't easy. Best to cut them long, curve them around the rib with some pressure, and then cut them to the right length after.

074b - Planks.jpg


Here is the view of the bottom of the boat. It was at this point that I managed to break one of the bulwarks, which after all, is just thin ply. So I moved onto supporting the model more carefully before 'hammering' in the nails, and pressing down. Ah well, bit more glue and all is well.
076a - a bit rough along the bottom.jpg


Getting tricky in places, and the clamps getting crowded.
076b - a bit rough.jpg


Almost done there on the solid side.
076c - a bit rough.jpg


Then working on the open side. A crisp opening, with good lines, is clearly important.
078 - filling in the viewing side.jpg


Reached the limit of pics, so breaking the posting.
 

Attachments

  • 072a - Starting planking.jpg
    072a - Starting planking.jpg
    213.7 KB · Views: 567
  • 072b - Planking mc plank face.jpg
    072b - Planking mc plank face.jpg
    342.5 KB · Views: 566
  • 073 - the solid side.jpg
    073 - the solid side.jpg
    238.2 KB · Views: 566
  • 074a - planks.jpg
    074a - planks.jpg
    235.4 KB · Views: 567
  • 074b - Planks.jpg
    074b - Planks.jpg
    247.4 KB · Views: 553
  • 074b - Planks.jpg
    074b - Planks.jpg
    247.4 KB · Views: 567
  • 076a - a bit rough along the bottom.jpg
    076a - a bit rough along the bottom.jpg
    194.7 KB · Views: 566
  • 076b - a bit rough.jpg
    076b - a bit rough.jpg
    174 KB · Views: 566
  • 076c - a bit rough.jpg
    076c - a bit rough.jpg
    174.9 KB · Views: 566
  • 078 - filling in the viewing side.jpg
    078 - filling in the viewing side.jpg
    166.8 KB · Views: 566
Wow

Looks a bit too complicated to me ! I served on HMS Apollo back in the day and acrew member built scale model out of matchsticks. I tried to buy it a couple of years ago but an antiques shop wanted £1000 !
 
I can't bring myself to sell anything I do make, as it would value my time at <£1 an hour. :)

I'm not fast. Its the journey I enjoy.
And maybe many more soon - counting down to retiring in 2019.
 
Just come across this you are doing a great job some of the parts can be very fiddly. I know this through making scale model boats and also the wooden models/toys that I build
 
Its 2020, and I've been in retirement for 9 months now. I'm not quite sure why I stopped updating this thread, but I was building up to retirement and work was increasingly busy.

Plus, the planking was DIFFICULT.

Anyway, the boat is completed now, but I am still making a stand for it (using an AMAZING new tool - Shaper - from Origin).

I'm not sure if its worth continuing to post on this topic, but if there is any appetite for it, I'll post pics and a commentary for the rest, over a number of weeks.

Anyone interested?
 
Yes please!
Since you started this, like many other people, I have been watching Leo Goolden rebuilding Tally-ho on YouTube. I now understand a bit more about how wooden boats are built, with a keel, frames, transom, bow etc. You are following the 'proper' methods in miniature so you are making something that's not just a ship-shaped object, but a real ship that just happens to fit inside your house.

So if you have the patience to take pictures and write it all up*, I shall be one of many enjoying the ride.

*We all know that you do!
 
yes please, always like a good build and would love to hear your thoughts on the shaper. Was it a retirement pressie/treat?
 
Thanks for the encouragement Andy.
The pictures I have, and the time - well, plenty of that now.
I've no idea about Tally-ho - I can see I'm about to be distracted. :)

I'll get stuck in later today.
 
I had been following the shaper during its early development, for the best part of 4 years. Then was frustrated that it was launched in USA and not available (with support) in the UK for getting on 2 years.

I did attend a training session in London, late last year - as a "try before you buy", thing. Its such an impressive bit of kit!

What finally allowed me to justify it was the absence of spend on holidays in 2020!

(that and the encouragement of my wife - who was then able to stash her equivalent amount as a contribution towards her aspiration to upgrade her quilting setup)
 
And it's another "Yes Please Ian" from me!

And congrats on your retirement - wishing you many long and happy years of model making (and "etc" as required by the domestic authorities!) to come.

Edit for P.S. I just went off to have a google for "Shaper Origin" and my goodness, what a piece of kit (so it seems from the vid) AND what a price too! Definitely for the "more well-heeled"! But would be very interested to hear how you get on with it (and also, what you use it for). After the ship build is finished, of course.

TIA
 
Okay, back to the model boat then.

I've cut this post out as there was a huge amount of overlap with a previous post.

But I'm encouraged to continue, so see below.
 
I do particularly like that neat little stove Ian, very nice. Those little brass pin heads really show it off well.

As another tip Ian, too late for this time, but who knows for later - you can buy quite cheaply a little 3 jaw chuck to go into a bigger chuck (mine has a hex drive shaft - came from the local DIY place). I find it quite useful because the "big" chuck on my pillar drill goes 3 mm (to 13 mm) and the little ones goes, zero to, I think, 4 mm. And though pretty cheap runout is quite good on it too.

But I'm really impressed with your planking around the bow and stern. I thought aeroplane shapes were difficult enough but at least there one is - normally - "only" using balsa.

Excellent work Sir. More please.
 
This has bought back some great memories of my late Father who over the years built dozens of similar boats, and R/C Planes to, he was making them from scratch plans before I was even born so many years knowledge required. When he passed and i cleared his house there were about 8 boats all mounted in glass cabinets - one, a trawler even had a scale skate on the deck (he was also a keen sea fisherman) Sadly I had no where to keep any so they were separated and went to differnt homes across the UK. As I said some good memories rekindled by this thread. Please keep it up.
 
AES":1xaishw7 said:
- you can buy quite cheaply a little 3 jaw chuck to go into a bigger chuck (mine has a hex drive shaft - came from the local DIY place). I find it quite useful because the "big" chuck on my pillar drill goes 3 mm (to 13 mm) and the little ones goes, zero to, I think, 4 mm. And though pretty cheap runout is quite good on it too.

+1 for those, known as pin chucks, I have several as I was given my first one by a jeweller friend 40 years ago and they are very useful at times. You get what you pay for but can buy cheapos for pennies, like these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4PC-Pin-Vice ... 3570182080
 
Back
Top