Mitre Saw

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jg.mit

Member
Joined
21 Feb 2021
Messages
11
Reaction score
0
Location
Carlisle
Hello all. What mitre saw do we all use? I am looking for one with a multipurpose blade so I was drawn to the evolution ones but I would like to know your advice.
 
I've been using an Evolution sliding mitre saw for about 4 years - I'm probably described as prolific maker of wood stuff - performed perfectly. Original blade was fine, I have a couple of others with different teeth counts for different materials. Mine is mounted with the saw bed level and between 2 benches to accommodate long material. Downsides: the dust extraction like most mitre saws isn't brilliant (mine has box shrouding it) and the laser guide needs to be checked carefully for alignment from time to time. Pretty good value - Screwfix usually the cheapest.
 
I've been using an Evolution sliding mitre saw for about 4 years - I'm probably described as prolific maker of wood stuff - performed perfectly. Original blade was fine, I have a couple of others with different teeth counts for different materials. Mine is mounted with the saw bed level and between 2 benches to accommodate long material. Downsides: the dust extraction like most mitre saws isn't brilliant (mine has box shrouding it) and the laser guide needs to be checked carefully for alignment from time to time. Pretty good value - Screwfix usually the cheapest.

Thanks for for reply
 
Not a mitre saw but I bought a Evolution circular saw to replace the Elu, AEG, Makita's I had used over many years and it did the job but it sounded from day one like the bearings were shot even though they seemed fine. I blamed the blade and carried on using it but when the blade eventually needed replacing a new one made no difference to the noise it made, mainly on run down.
It is on it's 3rd or 4th blade now and still works okay but still sounds rough.
I eventually decided to go for a track system but avoided buying a new Evolution saw even though I bought the Evolution track. The saw I did buy is so much smoother than my Evolution . I will just keep the Evo saw for rough jobs.
I may have been unlucky and it may just have been a one off but if you could hear it running before buying it that would be good.
 
Hmm - I forgot to mention that I also have an Evolution Compound Mitre Saw (2016 vintage, bought secondhand about 6 weeks ago) - that seems fine.
 
I have the basic, non sliding, evolution saw. It is absolutely fine for the money, I wish I'd spent a bit more and got the sliding model as the larger bite would give more flexability of use. I use it on a board set up with fences on either side, but I would consider the evolution stand, I saw it on display in screwfix and it seemed very solid and good for the money.
 
I've been running the Lidl one (rebadged Scheppach) since 2018 and only recently changed the blade. I also found the instruction book which had detailed instructions for squaring the blade and adjusting the laser.. win win!
Recently bought the brushless Performance mitre saw for everyday use, but what with it's limited power and no slide, I am keeping the Scheppach one handy. I also noted that there is more lateral flex in the brushless saw vs. the Scheppach saw, probably due to more parts being made from plastic in the newer saw.
I am in love with the Bosch compound arm sliding saw, but I've better uses for that sort of money!
 
I too have an Evolution the Fury 3XL had it quite a few years now, still going strong and no complaints (dust extraction/lack of a given!! lol).

Padster
 
just be carefull with evo saws. while the work they are good for the money, but mine went to the valhalla for mitre saws..........

they dont like working hot, and after that first exposure, they dont ever like working.........

saying that, i have a evo corded circ saw, and what my tsc55 wont go through, that, more than likey will. i just wish it had a riving knife:cry: they are powerfull, but dont expect to do fine furnature with one.

i know this may sound like an evo haters post, but the truth is, i used one for a long time, and still use my mate's periodically.....
 
I too have an Evolution Rage sliding mitre saw. Been pretty reliable over the years I've had it. But it has its limitations: great for construction work like cutting studs etc and no worries about hitting nails or staples when using the multi purpose blade. But, don't expect it to do really accurate fine cutting. Forever having to re set it to cut true and getting it to cut deep accurate 45° mitres is almost impossible. I swapped out the original blade for a saxton fine tooth blade which gives a finer and cleaner cut. It is what it is, a workhorse but not a fine precision tool
 
I have a small older dewalt , think it was 770 or something? And a makita dls110z
The dewalt is solid, it can take a real beating. The makita is very accurate, but feels less robust.

The point is though, you can buy whatever saw you like the reviews of, then buy a multipurpise blade to fit it, so you'd have a good blade and one that you dont mind abusing.... so depending on budget, i would say a dewalt model is a good bet all round
 
One of my saws is a 20+ year old electro beckum 303 been on sites in workshop just keeps going! suplimented by a Mafell ks400 and kss300 simoly brilliant mitre saws ...
 
Makita ls0714ln. Entry level makita, I think. Not the biggest, could do with soft start. Had it for 10 years, absolutely flawless, cuts dead square and leaves the wood as smooth as glass. Supplied blade is/was excellent. Laser packed up couple of months ago, otherwise no complaints at all, and highly recommended.
 
I don’t want to sound evangelical about working by hand here; I work to a much smaller scale than many members, and don’t do this kind of work with the frequency that some do, but I have two mitre saws, a restored Ulmia 348, which (unlike today’s still-produced models) came with a very nice tenon saw rather than a tensioned frame saw, and a much larger 352 model, as yet unrestored. No earplugs required, and these things are a pleasure to use.
 
More importantly do you buy a 10" or 12 " saw? The 12" will allow 4 " mitres on the vertical cut. Its always a faff having to tilt the saw over accurately to get a 45 degree cut and you have use the gap in the fence. If you are not tilting the saw you can put in a false plywood fence making it much safer. I have a 10 year old Milwaukee digital saw which has just given up. I got some brushes for it but it took a month. The saw is now out of production - another irritation to contend with !
 
An older 12 inch Bosch, using blades from SIS. Really good saw with no play on the two slides so cuts accurate every time. A good blade always makes a difference and mitre saws need a negative hook.
 
Evolution user here... first corded power tool I ever bought. Used it for building my 'shop, performed flawlessly. Now fitted with an Axminster negative rake fine blade (and reducing ring for the imperial arbor) which produces a very clean cut. Dust collection is woeful but then it's a sliding compound mitre saw and that's what you get :sneaky:

It's very heavy and way too big for what I need these days but if I got rid of it for a smaller model I'd probably regret it at some point. Overall a very good bit of kit, sturdy and seems to hold its setup very well between jobs. Not the most accurate for angled or bevelled cuts but then I use it mostly for 90 degree crosscutting to length.
 
I have a Makita LS1018L with a good 260mm 80 tooth blade. I love it. The laser is great and it is very adjustable. It is on a mobile unit but easily removable. I still swap to the original blade if I want lots of quick cuts. I've had the blade re-sharpened too, wow - that's worth doing.
 
Back
Top