Mitre Fence for Wadkin Table Saw

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If it was my AGS10 I'd want a mitre fence that was a bit more trad looking than that twinkly thing ...

And it's funny how circular sawbenches got to be more and more often called 'table saws' ....

I'd be looking on ebay myself, but it can be a bit of a sellers' market ...
 
If it was my AGS10 I'd want a mitre fence that was a bit more trad looking than that twinkly thing ...

And it's funny how circular sawbenches got to be more and more often called 'table saws' ....

I'd be looking on ebay myself, but it can be a bit of a sellers' market ...


OP asked a question for a suitable mitre - I’ve suggested one that works with my AGS10, given it’s a 3/4 inch slot.

You’ve just spouted off your opinion and given no actual answer to the OP.
Wasting time really.

Peter has subsequently given some more info and you can’t help yourself but have a pop at that info too…

If you have an ounce of sense you’d think logically -

Stuartgb100 this was my thought process;

- it’s an old cabinet saw that has more than likely had thousands if not, tens of thousands of operations of the mitre gauge up and down the slot.

- Being a cast iron table and the original mitre being steel, the slot will more than certainly have worn.

- my Incra suggestion has adjustment rings that will take out any slop in the mitre slot.

Hardly a toy as according to RogXwhit but an essential tool to enable accurate cuts.

I did find my original Wadkin AGS10 mitre was loose so that’s why I went with the Incra.

I wouldn’t listen to rogxwhit’s suggestion of buying a used non adjustable original off eBay as he hasn’t thought through my points above.
 
The problem with an adjustable is that the slot, if it has worn, won't have worn uniformly. So an adjustable bar may indeed get you a nice wobble free fit in part of the slot and jam solid if you slide it to an unworn section.

Having sold one on ebay for about £50 last year, I'd second the suggestion that the OP just keeps an eye open on ebay for a used Wadkin cast iron mitre gauge.

Failing that and if you really want to spend a chunk of change on a toy that wouldn't last 6 months in a production shop, I like the "Osborne EB-3" style of modern mitre gauge. I don't think they can be bought new in the UK though Axminster did badge them for a while. It's not a bad size overall to pair with an AGS, quite robust for what it is and has a nifty extending fence. The (adjustable if you want to) bar is the "standard" width found on most American gauges.

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Bought a mitre gauge by Vevor recently for £60 quite impressed with it feels solid enough

Has the adj disc for a good fit In The table groove 24” fence with adj stop and a indexed mitre gauge

Only could find one review on YouTube
 
I think that people can tend to get led up blind alleys to do with all sorts of tool provision and work methods. Don't trust manufacturers and retailers too much - remember that they have a vested interest - they are after your money! At the craft and hobby end of the market in particular they are often guilty of cultivating product mystique.

Trouble is, people seem to have a weakness for buying into mystique. The psychology is curious, but we are an advertiser's dream. We are suckers. Mystique, however, ain't reality - it's a sham. It has no place in work. Work can't be fooled.

But we were talking about mitre gauges on saws. They have come down to us from simpler times - there's a slot - and a bar. We hope that one fits the other in a decent fashion (whatever that means!). Maybe there's 6 thou of slop (forgive me but when I talk about thou I'm still in the age of Imperial).

What happens when we use the gauge? We push! Where do we push? We push with our hand about the body of the gauge or to its left. Why? Because we don't want our fingers anywhere near the blade, at least not if we're British and sensible ...

And where is the pressure from the cut? Why, it's back in the other direction. So we push away from us on the left, and the resistance of the cut presses towards us on the right. So the work tends to rotate clockwise, in a fashion that will be fairly uniform, at least whilst the cut is in progress. Say there is 6 thou of sideways slop - but that's over the length of a 300mm bar! I'm no mathematician but that can't amount to much in an angular sense, can it?

And if you care (I do), you can set up the gauge to counteract the miniscule rotation that comes from the slop.

The test is in the results. But no anodising in poncy colours, no profiteering, no mystique. Let's go to work!

Of course if the stock is long, you'll be using a sliding table, not a mitre gauge, won't you ...?
 
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