MFT - wossit all about?

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Jacob,....If you genuinely dont see the irony then I'm afraid I cant explain it to you as I would just be wasting my time.
Perhaps you don't know what 'irony' means?
I wrote earlier: "Yes track saw a good idea. A bit pricey though. The sawboard is a good idea too - you put it up to the marks just the same but have to clamp it. Poor man's track saw. Or track saw for someone who just needs one occasionally."
Does that help?
 
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Perhaps you don't know what 'irony' means?

😂😂😂 Oh dear Jacob!

Perhaps you are correct,...perhaps not!
Perhaps some of the other commenters on this thread can see the irony and they also perhaps dont know what it means...?

I think I've contributed enough to this thread of yours as I clearly feel no amount of experience or advice that you've been offered is going to enlighten you.
 
..... I clearly feel no amount of experience or advice that you've been offered is going to enlighten you.
Not at all. You have all answered my question. Thanks for that.
Simple answer; MFT is for people who regularly cut sheet material and being predrilled saves a bit of time in aligning your track saw. Which I'd realised by post 10, if you can be bothered to scroll back. Is this really post 146? How time flies!
Somebody muttered about "endless possibilities" but nobody has expanded on that.
Not for woodwork more generally, and not clear that you'd need the vast array of expensive add-on gadgets being promoted - unless there really are hidden "endless possibilities" :unsure:

OK, as you were, carry on chaps! :LOL:
 
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In a previous job I made a sawboard for when we occasionally needed to make a crate to transport our larger systems. It was either myself or a colleague that built the crate, but I noticed that he sometimes had trouble keeping the circular saw running along the straight edge (combination of things, including going too quick and not paying enough attention).
After a while we stumped up for a cheap tracksaw... This was a revelation for him. Straight every time, perfectly lined up and so easy to set up.
The cost wasnt much more than the circular saw we had previously used, we should have got that to begin with.
I'm sure most people on here would take more care and attention than my colleague did, but it certainly showed how easy and accurate they are to use.
 
I still haven't quite got it. :unsure:
Another question; why not align the track saw with a large T square, then you wouldn't need any of the gubbins at all?
You could make your own with size/angles to suit.
 
Do the short track lengths not give compound inaccuracies?

Cheers James

Not that I've noticed. The Bosch FSN rails simply butted up to each other and the wide connecting bar was snugged up.

Festool doesn't recommend using this method because apparently it won't guarantee the ends of the rail are 90 degrees from the long edge. Instead, they recommend leaving a small gap between the guide rails and using a straight edge along the back of the rail before snugging up the two connector rails. I eventually got tired of doing this and bought the FS 3000/2 rail since I don't load my tools in a van and travel to a site.
 
I still haven't quite got it. :unsure:
Another question; why not align the track saw with a large T square, then you wouldn't need any of the gubbins at all?
You could make your own with size/angles to suit.

I don't think that'd be quite as accurate. It might not matter though.
 
I don't think that'd be quite as accurate. It might not matter though.
You could make one up as per the Peter Parfit video - with his special rulers if you have them or with a tape otherwise. Would be just as accurate if you follow the same procedure.
Basically 3 laths in ratio 3:4:5 marked up and/or notched, pointed etc to lay it out.
Or just buy one, and a big set square while you are at it.
 
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The basic by Peter Millard (one of many produced on tracksaws)

I've got the tracksaw idea OK it was never in doubt. Good idea! I haven't got one so instead I'd either do it carefully against a straight edge (e.g. length of MFC shelving) or rough cut and trim on the TS.
What I haven't got is the need for the dogs and all the kit, boards with holes in, bandoliers full of assorted dogs etc Bench Dogs, Woodworker bench fittings and Fence Dogs expensive clamps, £100 squares and similar as shown on other vids.
It's OK I'm not very interested anyway, I thought I might be missing something but I got the answer to my question.
 
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Jacob. Like you I have a bit of sceptisism and wanted to try and understand what this was all about. For years I have used an aluminium U channel and a standard hand held circular saw. I have made gauge blocks to set the channel the right distance from the line 2 for cutting and leaving the line and 2 for cutting on the other side of teh line/ Understanding the MFT table and guide dogs takes a bit of getting your hear round as even without a tracksaw the potential seems almost unlimited. Have a look at this video and hopefully will answer your questions. I am also sure with some thought you could home make almost everything for minimal cost
 
Wow - been catching up on this thread as I have been considering an MFT style top for my workbench and there’s lot to absorb here. I have a sturdy work bench with a good thick top plus a track saw.
Have been considering a £40 MFT style top for…
1. Accurate 90 (and 45) degree cuts using dogs
2. Sacrificial top (don’t want to cut into my bench top.)
3. Low profile work holding for carving, routing, sanding, etc

One question though, if I place an MFT style top directly onto my bench will the blind holes be a problem? - I appreciate I won’t be able to put a clamp through the holes to act as a hold down clamp but will there be any other limitations? - at least the screws and drill bits won’t fall through 😂
 
Wow - been catching up on this thread as I have been considering an MFT style top for my workbench and there’s lot to absorb here. I have a sturdy work bench with a good thick top plus a track saw.
Have been considering a £40 MFT style top for…
1. Accurate 90 (and 45) degree cuts using dogs
2. Sacrificial top (don’t want to cut into my bench top.)
3. Low profile work holding for carving, routing, sanding, etc

One question though, if I place an MFT style top directly onto my bench will the blind holes be a problem? - I appreciate I won’t be able to put a clamp through the holes to act as a hold down clamp but will there be any other limitations? - at least the screws and drill bits won’t fall through 😂

You won't be able to use clamps as you have said & you won't be able to lock the dogs in place from the underside of the table but I think that is about all, all the dogs that I have seen fit in the holes but don't poke out the bottom of the table so you should be good there.
 
I've got the tracksaw idea OK it was never in doubt. Good idea! I haven't got one so instead I'd either do it carefully against a straight edge (e.g. length of MFC shelving) or rough cut and trim on the TS.
What I haven't got is the need for the dogs and all the kit, boards with holes in, bandoliers full of assorted dogs etc Bench Dogs, Woodworker bench fittings and Fence Dogs expensive clamps, £100 squares and similar as shown on other vids.
It's OK I'm not very interested anyway, I thought I might be missing something but I got the answer to my question.

You are only missing something if you have a need for one & as you have determined you don't then you are not missing anything at all lol. Before I buy any new tools I ask myself if it will allow me to do something that I can't currently do, if it will save me time or it it will make the process easier for me.
I buy hardwood slices from a local sawmill, I could get them to machine it for me but that's an additional cost plus I don't get all the off cuts & since I make a lot of small items including pens then those off cuts get used. I was cutting it with a straight edge & circular saw but found it could be a bit tricky sometimes clamping it correctly, the circular saw can be difficult to get started because it doesn't plunge cut & I personally found it a bit awkward when starting the cut as it was basically unsupported as I was starting. As a couple of other people have said you have to concentrate a bit to ensure the saw stays tight against the straight edge.
So a track saw ticked 2 of the boxes for me as it makes the process much quicker & it also makes it easier for me. I do this on a regular basis so have saved a lot of time. I didn't have the space for a decent table saw, unfortunately you need quite a bit of room to be able to use one & they are not easily packed away when not in use lol
I have an MFT style top which gets used for everything because I don't think a traditional work bench is something that would be a lot of use to me although I could be completely wrong about that lol. I don't do much with hand tools, because of an injury to my right shoulder using something like a hand plane or hand saw is not something that I can easily do, I also have a problem with my right leg which means that any operation that involves shifting my body weight from one side to the other is out of the question. I have a few bits for the MFT top, some I bought & some I made. The dogs to me are not that expensive, they are stainless steel & will last longer that I expect I will live, other bits that are sold don't fit in with the sort of things I do so I haven't bought them.
 
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