MFT Style Top

[DiscoStu]

So as I mentioned in a previous post I am looking to make an MFT style top.

My initial thoughts were that I would have a 25mm wide by 13mm deep channel cut out where the edge of the rail would sit so that when I cut I don't mark the table. The plan is / was that I'd have a channel near the top edge and on the side edge.

I also wondered about inserting some T Track that would enable me to use a stop on it so I could easily do repeat cuts of the same length.

Now this is all well and good as long as I always want to use the same horizontal and vertical cutting points but how often will I want to make a cut in the middle of the table?

Why do those of you that own an MFT style top do?

I've created a sketch up plan so I'll try and add an image shortly so you can see what I am talking about.

 

[DiscoStu]

Also is 25mm ok to use the Festool clamps with or will it be too thick?

 

[Mike.S]

I don't have a MFT style top (another item on my wish list though ) but my thinking, for what it's worth, is why bother with the channels? So close to the edge seems pointless - just have the track edge overhanging the table edge (saw and track will still be supported). Alternatively, I find one challenge when cutting is to have support for both sides of the item being cut. This would suggest that channels in the middle of the table (on each axis) might be more useful.

However, overall the beauty of the proposed top - in my mind - is to be able to pop parf dogs wherever they're needed to provide a straight guide for either the wood being cut and/or the track. Then just set the saw cutting depth to just greater than the depth of wood and cut away - a few cut marks won't matter and the top can be used as a template to make it's replacement when it eventually deteriorates too much.

An opinion, FWIW.

 

[pcb1962]

I find myself making cuts all over the table, restricting yourself to only cutting over the channels would be very frustrating IMO. Presumably you are using a TS55, in which case your max depth of over-cut will be about 1mm unless you're very careless, so 13mm deep channels are excessive. The main reason I wouldn't have the channels is you will get more tearout without support below the cut.
I think you will struggle to get the clamps through a 25mm top, they are a fairly tight fit in 18/19mm. I have sunk a 1/2" T- track into my bench which the Festool clamps fit nicely, not quite as versatile as having all the hole positions available, but quite adequate IME.

 

[DiscoStu]

Thanks guys good intel.

So I'll good for 18mm top, keep the T Tracks, and think about the channels. If I do keep the channel ideal I will make them less deep as that makes sense.

As suggested this is for a TS55 with Track.

How much clearance do I need under the table for the clamps to work? If I am going to go 18mm thick then I think I might need some additional support under the middle of the table?

 

[pcb1962]

How much clearance do I need under the table for the clamps to work?

50mm for Festool clamps.

 

[DiscoStu]

Thanks. I've bought some of the axminster ones recently but I think they will be the same.

 

[petermillard]

Thanks guys good intel.

So I'll good for 18mm top, keep the T Tracks, and think about the channels. If I do keep the channel ideal I will make them less deep as that makes sense..

I routed out a 9mm deep channel on my MFT and used a sacrificial strip of MDF to bring it up to level; full support under the cut, and easily replaceable. Worth making the channel/strip a bit deeper IMHO if you ever plan to make bevel cuts, as the bevel 'over-cut' is always a bit deeper.

HTH Pete

 

[paulrockliffe]

Planning something similar eventually and haven't worked out all the details yet. I think if you can avoid having to damage your top in a way that isn't totally impractical it's got to be better. Surely it only takes a couple of projects before your tops are a right mess.

I like the idea of removable strips, or just put lots of channels in between each dog hole so there's always something in roughly the right place.

I guess it's worth considering where you'll be in relation to the bench for the best cutting position; you're not going to want to reach across the middle of the bench to cut for example. That in mind, perhaps the best option is to cut over the edge and maybe incorporate a slide-out support for the off-cut.

 

[oakfield]

I am planing on building myself a MFT type bench soon.
I will not be bothering with a sacrificial strip at all. If after a bit of use I feel the need, it would only be a few minutes work to run a router across where the cuts are to cut a dado and stick a strip in.

 

[custard]

Thanks guys good intel.

So I'll good for 18mm top, keep the T Tracks, and think about the channels. If I do keep the channel ideal I will make them less deep as that makes sense.

As suggested this is for a TS55 with Track.

How much clearance do I need under the table for the clamps to work? If I am going to go 18mm thick then I think I might need some additional support under the middle of the table?

You're asking all the right questions.

I've got an MFT and it does droop a bit in the centre of the table. I'm also thinking about hardwood stiffening strips underneath and sacrificing some of the clamping/dog versatility in those areas. Actually the track droops too, even if it's locked at the same height as the workpiece at each side of the table you still have to support it pretty much right across the table for depth critical applications like routing a dado.

Incidentally, I'm not that far from you, in Lymington at the other end of the Solent, so if you need to look more closely at an MFT 3 then drop me a PM.